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Massive Engine Knock on All Startups

racingmason

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I've had the coyote tick lightly but the last few months it has gotten worse. I change my oil every 3k miles and check the level weekly. This video was taken last night after the car sat for an hour after a drive home from work. I believe it sounds like piston slap or a warped sleeve. As soon as the car hits operating temperature around 185 it goes away. The exhaust is not leaking anywhere and I dont beat on the car. Always let it warm up before pulling out of garage. The car has 15k miles on it and would be under warranty except there's a kenne bell on it. Looking for ideas on if my suspicion is correct.

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Dominant1

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warranty?
 

Ss90

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Honestly, I would put it back to stock and take to the dealer. Unless you have the money to build the motor/sleeve it. That’s nasty
 

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302@12psi

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Makes me feel better about my 2k rattle...it could always be worst.

While not cheap, there are built motor options, that aren't insanely expensive and should be an option for most folks.
 
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racingmason

racingmason

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Check compression. Easy.
Maybe leakdown too.
Burnt Valve dragging in valve guide?
Just swap the long block for fresh stock one.
$4500 and done.
Just did a compression test and all cylinders were 180 psi +- 4. Cold starts its way worse. I would say it was from hard driving but I don't beat on it at all. I drive it like a grandma to and from work 3 days a week. Every week i do a quick 40 to 80 pull to knock the carbon out of it. Tune is conservative and i always warm the car before driving. Maybe the luck of the draw? This was one of the last 2017s to roll off the production line in June of 2017. A stock short block from Tasca is only 1500 bucks shipped or MMR has short blocks that are built for $4k.
 

Notagain

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Link to 1500 dollar short block?

I dont believe that price if so Ill stock spares in my garage and send it on nitrous LOL!!
 

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racingmason

racingmason

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sigintel

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Link to 1500 dollar short block?
I dont believe that price if so Ill stock spares in my garage and send it on nitrous LOL!!
Be nice and make calls in person to forum sponsors. They do a hella fine job supporting Ford grassroots and street crowd. We dont want them posting those prices everywhere on the web cause we need some people to pay more so they can sell to us for less. .. or something... Just decide if you are "us" or "some people".

Op, If your cold start compression is below 120, rings or pistons might need a refresh.
Do you have a borescope/ontoscope/endoscope with short focal length?
Check for carbon
valve contact
check cylinder walls
look for evidence of cracked lands

Run it till it dies?
Change short block and hope its not in the heads?
Order long block without core exchange to have on hand? - Then build spare while running the swap motor.
Or just long block service motor swap? (~$1000 cheaper w core refund)
Best luck
 

olaosunt

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Sorry for your luck man .....been there too many times .
But don’t forget the $500 core on the block though ... but I guess you do have a core .
For $2K more get a block with better internals ....add another $2k to have it sleeved or start off with a predator block(with the stronger head bolts /studs) and have yourself some GT 500 goodness.
If you don’t want a “5.2” ,18 bare blocks are the cheapest (and may be stronger ) and you also get the 12 mm head bolts/studs
....but no guarantees even with built /sleeved blocks ...ask me how I know . Lol
 

Notagain

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I have a 2018 now but I wasnt trying to be rude or anything. I was shocked at that price even with core.

Notbad.
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