Made 740whp on 91 octane w/ Whipple

[markmurfie]

Knock is pressure spiking and dropping rapidly after combustion has started. Caused by pockets of air and fuel not part of the main combustion igniting on their own. The noise that the sensors listen for is the frequency this occurs at(~6Khz very rapid). Its a property of the size of the bore and engine RPM. Think of it as a hammering effect that can vary in intensity. If you catch it when its a quiet light tapping, it probably won't harm your engine. If its allowed to get to sledge hammer intensity it will destroy the engine as quickly as if you hit it with a sledge hammer 6000 times. The intensity is proportional not only to the amount of fuel and air you had in the combustion chamber, but how far advanced past point where knock would have started your ignition actually occurred. 1/4* is a lot less intense than 2* or 3*. Part throttle is safer than WOT.

If you know what your knock intensity by RPM retard amount table looks like, you can see what intensity knock the ECU is picking up. This only applies if the knock advance is adding timing. If its at 0 or positive it assumes the highest intensity knock as its occurring below what it thinks should be base borderline and where knock should not be able to occur, so something must be wrong. You want a knock advance rate thats slow enough for the ECU to catch the low intensity knock before overshooting into much higher intensity events. The OAR(another base correction) and the rest of the base corrections allows the knock advance rate to remain as slow as possible. The knock advance is there to allow the borderline to be a bit conservative and it will pick up the slack in a safe, real time, feedback when done correctly.

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[Meatball]

Yikes. Makes me feel safe only when I see max timing added (so the ecu hasn't encountered knock). I take it there’s no PID that shows knock severity, only the ecu’s reaction to it as KR.

Oh well. I knew slapping a sc on has consequences for longevity...I’ll just assume Whipple knows what they’re doing and there’s a reasonable balance between power via spark advance and avoiding excessive (cumulative) damage in their tune. I think they and Roush used/uses a Ford calibration expert. Hopefully they’ve worked out the details on the 11:1 motors by now (and according to some in the forums, fwiw, on the 12:1 one as well).

More boostane it is. Just have to swap out the plugs and o2 sensors every 10K miles or so....

btw Ford must have made some concessions to the aftermarket and supercharging in engine design. They didn’t ditch PI entirely on the gen3 even though they don’t use it at all in their EB motors...and the cooling passage reconfiguration in the gen3 block only matters at massive power levels if I understand that correctly.

 

[TX-Ripper]

Whipples current calibration is fine.

 

[moffetts]

The only time I run straight 91 is if I plan on traveling long distance on the freeway, aka, mostly out of boost. Straight 91 is good for 2-4 degrees of pulled timing and adding MMT will get you to 2-4 degrees of added timing. Big, big difference.

 

[evotriox88]

I’ve been using VP octanium lately. The purple can off road can. Is Octanium safe? Or should I only be using Torco? Autozone sells Octanium, so it’s easy to get.

 

[TX-Ripper]

It’s mostly the same.

I think boostane pro has the highest concentration and stays stable for longer in gasoline.

 

[Slopoke]

I’ve been using VP octanium lately. The purple can off road can. Is Octanium safe? Or should I only be using Torco? Autozone sells Octanium, so it’s easy to get.

If you are going to use an octane booster on a regular basis, I'd suggest you purchase it online. Usually a better price point and not having to go get it. I was getting 8 16oz cans and now am switching to 6 32oz cans. I go through roughly 24oz a month. My mix ratio is .6oz per gallon to get 97 equivalent octane.

You might also want to rethink your choice of octane booster. Looking at the Octanium you are using, it doesn't have a mix chart, where as some others have an oz per gallon to get you to a desired octane.

 

[Meatball]

Boostane is explicitly mentioned in my 15-17 Gen5 install manual. Probably others as well, that’s just the one I have.

 

[S550AC11]

I use about .75 oz per gallon of Boostane. For play nights I use Sunoco SS100

 

[WildHorse]

Looking at the Octanium you are using, it doesn't have a mix chart, where as some others have an oz per gallon to get you to a desired octane.

It states quantity on the direction label. But I'd avoid anything with MTBE additive.

 

[Slopoke]

It states quantity on the direction label. But I'd avoid anything with MTBE additive.

1, 32oz can in the Unleaded flavor per 10 gallons of gas, only raises the octane level 7 points. That would be 3.2oz per gallon of gas. Compared to Boostane, that's terrible. Boostane Premium requires 1.28oz per gallon of 91 octane fuel for the same results. Boostane Professional requires 0.92oz per gallon of 91 octane fuel. So one can of Boostane Pro, will treat 3 times as much fue than the VP Octanium Unleaded. The purple can only raises octane, 8 points. Boostane Premium only needs 1.49oz per gallon of 91 octane fuel and the Pro needs 1.28oz per gallon of 91 octane fuel.

I'm not a Boostane fanboy, but I'm just showing the comparisons between the two products. Since Boostane has a good reputation and their product is more economical, I choose to use it in my Mustang.

 

[WildHorse]

I'm not a Boostane fanboy, but I'm just showing the comparisons between the two products

Which tells me boostane uses more than double the MTBE content than octanium. No thanks. Also I'd use a much more conservative tune with 91, but that's just me.

 

[Slopoke]

Which tells me boostane uses more than double the MTBE content than octanium. No thanks. Also I'd use a much more conservative tune with 91, but that's just me.

Your money, your choice. But for me, my cats are being removed tomorrow and the MAK cat delete pipes installled. The plugs will get changed every other oil change (7,500m X 2 = 15,000m), O2 sensors are cheap when compared to the price of an engine.

I'm not counting on my warranty in the event of an engine failure, that would bad Karma in my opinion to do so. If it blows, I'm ready and prepared to order a long block or short block, depending on what I'd need. So, that's why I use a product with MMT.

 

[WildHorse]

Your money, your choice.

Damn skippy. Cheers.

 

[Meatball]

Damn skippy. Cheers.

Slopoke has a boosted 12:1 motor on crappy California gas, you’re an NA 11:1 with access to >91 I think. You guys both have good points for your own cars.

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