Mikepol2
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- Mike
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- 2021 Mach 1, 2019 Ram 1500
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Although a lot of this is already buried in the big ESS thread, it was a difficult enough project that I wanted to pass along notes for people hunting for specific Mach 1 installation information. I would imagine that some of this would apply no matter what centrifugal supercharger you install.
The ESS instructions that you get are specific to GTās, and although there are a couple Mach 1 specific notes, there was a lot that I had to figure out on my own or rely on folks here on 6G to help me with. So here we goā¦
First, the fuel injectors: I used GT500 injectors. If you order them on the ESS website they want $330, but I got them for $80 from Levitown because I bought the Motorcraft replacement part number, not the Ford performance package.
The Vortech fuel pump booster installation was very difficult because there were no instructions with it, and I used a CJ pony parts Vortech supercharger installation video that included the booster at around the one hour mark. If you try this modification, make sure you have very hard, sharp drill bits, and consider tapping holes for the bolts because the metal is too thick and hard for the bolts to thread into it.
Now for some notes that were either incorrect or missing from the ESS instructions, along with some other thoughts.
I have another thread on removing the Mach front bumper assembly, read that because there are differences from the GT.
The four inner impact bar bolts have a locking serrated nut on the back side. Would be a good idea to have four new ones before the install. Went to the dealer but they couldnāt find the nut in their diagrams! It turned out that one of the bolts removed from the alternator happened to be the correct thread so I used that in the impact bar at reassembly.
The instructions say remove the thermostat housing hose and the housing, and trim the hose to fit onto the supplied 90Ā° housing. But the next page says our cars use a different hose that comes with the kit, donāt do what I did and spend an hour trying to make it work before turning the page! my suggestion would be to remove the lower end of the hose from the radiator first and let everything drain into a pan, then remove the housing and pull everything out at once.
Next the instructions say replace the coolant hose at the bottom of the expansion tank, itās OK to remove and drain it now, but donāt put the new one on until the very end so you can route it around the large hose that goes into the throttlebody.
Before installing the intercooler, the instructions say remove the factory air ducts on either side of the radiator. More disassembly is needed to do that. They are only held in place with a couple pushpins, but the tubular black support running from where the bumper mounts to the radiator support needs to come out. To do that the upper radiator trim piece also needs to come out, it is just held in place with six pushpins, very easy. The only bad thing is that after removing the side ducting, there is nowhere to mount the lower splash shield. So the two side ducts, the lower splash shield, and the two rubber/plastic trim pieces attached to the side of the radiator all need to come out. The two tubular black supports also need to stay out, they will block the intercooler openings.
The instructions do not tell you what orientation for the banjo fitting on top of the blow off valve, point it down. Four washers came with it, but I have no idea what the other two washers are for after using two of them for the banjo fitting.
The instructions do not tell you where to run the large wiring harness that was originally attached to the crash bar. Detach the clip on the passenger side of the radiator and discard it, then run the harness in front of the intercooler, do not stand it between the intercooler and the radiator.
For installing the charge pipes, you have to push and shove more than you might think is necessary. I sprayed everything with Simple Green throughout the process, it was an excellent lubricant for the piping, for inserting things into the pipes or under the clamps for ease of tightening the clamps.
The passenger charge pipe was very difficult. I had to remove several wire harness clips holding the harness to things, but more importantly had to gently bend the silver AC line towards the radiator. That was very unnerving. Also had to take out the expansion tank so the lower expansion tank hose was out of the way.
The MAF sensor should be installed angled slightly towards the back of the car to give room to clip the sensor in when the expansion tank is installed.
The air filter would not fit down into the opening because of a small black plastic ear that was used to hold the stock airbox in place. I cut it off with a hacksaw and the filter would barely go in. But at least now it can be accessed from the top of the car. You have to smash it down in, but it will eventually go, it hits the top of the cooler.
It wasnāt immediately clear to me what to do with the silicone hose that attaches to the air filter pipe, but after I figured it out, the instructions do explain it pretty well. There is a hose coming out of the valve cover just above the dipstick. Remove the hose from the valve cover, cut the hose off, and then insert that fitting into the hose from the new air filter pipe and secure with a hose clamp. You can trim some of the new hose from the air filter pipe, it is pretty long.
when you install the front clip assembly back onto the car, have someone hold up the driver side duct as you slide the assembly back onto the front of the car, the duct has to go over to oil cooler lines.
I used Wengerd for the tuning, he was very responsive, just understand that he is very busy and donāt expect immediate answers every time you email.
Thatās about it, here is a video showing how I routed everything, it should be pretty helpful as you are trying to figure out where everything goes.
The ESS instructions that you get are specific to GTās, and although there are a couple Mach 1 specific notes, there was a lot that I had to figure out on my own or rely on folks here on 6G to help me with. So here we goā¦
First, the fuel injectors: I used GT500 injectors. If you order them on the ESS website they want $330, but I got them for $80 from Levitown because I bought the Motorcraft replacement part number, not the Ford performance package.
The Vortech fuel pump booster installation was very difficult because there were no instructions with it, and I used a CJ pony parts Vortech supercharger installation video that included the booster at around the one hour mark. If you try this modification, make sure you have very hard, sharp drill bits, and consider tapping holes for the bolts because the metal is too thick and hard for the bolts to thread into it.
Now for some notes that were either incorrect or missing from the ESS instructions, along with some other thoughts.
I have another thread on removing the Mach front bumper assembly, read that because there are differences from the GT.
The four inner impact bar bolts have a locking serrated nut on the back side. Would be a good idea to have four new ones before the install. Went to the dealer but they couldnāt find the nut in their diagrams! It turned out that one of the bolts removed from the alternator happened to be the correct thread so I used that in the impact bar at reassembly.
The instructions say remove the thermostat housing hose and the housing, and trim the hose to fit onto the supplied 90Ā° housing. But the next page says our cars use a different hose that comes with the kit, donāt do what I did and spend an hour trying to make it work before turning the page! my suggestion would be to remove the lower end of the hose from the radiator first and let everything drain into a pan, then remove the housing and pull everything out at once.
Next the instructions say replace the coolant hose at the bottom of the expansion tank, itās OK to remove and drain it now, but donāt put the new one on until the very end so you can route it around the large hose that goes into the throttlebody.
Before installing the intercooler, the instructions say remove the factory air ducts on either side of the radiator. More disassembly is needed to do that. They are only held in place with a couple pushpins, but the tubular black support running from where the bumper mounts to the radiator support needs to come out. To do that the upper radiator trim piece also needs to come out, it is just held in place with six pushpins, very easy. The only bad thing is that after removing the side ducting, there is nowhere to mount the lower splash shield. So the two side ducts, the lower splash shield, and the two rubber/plastic trim pieces attached to the side of the radiator all need to come out. The two tubular black supports also need to stay out, they will block the intercooler openings.
The instructions do not tell you what orientation for the banjo fitting on top of the blow off valve, point it down. Four washers came with it, but I have no idea what the other two washers are for after using two of them for the banjo fitting.
The instructions do not tell you where to run the large wiring harness that was originally attached to the crash bar. Detach the clip on the passenger side of the radiator and discard it, then run the harness in front of the intercooler, do not stand it between the intercooler and the radiator.
For installing the charge pipes, you have to push and shove more than you might think is necessary. I sprayed everything with Simple Green throughout the process, it was an excellent lubricant for the piping, for inserting things into the pipes or under the clamps for ease of tightening the clamps.
The passenger charge pipe was very difficult. I had to remove several wire harness clips holding the harness to things, but more importantly had to gently bend the silver AC line towards the radiator. That was very unnerving. Also had to take out the expansion tank so the lower expansion tank hose was out of the way.
The MAF sensor should be installed angled slightly towards the back of the car to give room to clip the sensor in when the expansion tank is installed.
The air filter would not fit down into the opening because of a small black plastic ear that was used to hold the stock airbox in place. I cut it off with a hacksaw and the filter would barely go in. But at least now it can be accessed from the top of the car. You have to smash it down in, but it will eventually go, it hits the top of the cooler.
It wasnāt immediately clear to me what to do with the silicone hose that attaches to the air filter pipe, but after I figured it out, the instructions do explain it pretty well. There is a hose coming out of the valve cover just above the dipstick. Remove the hose from the valve cover, cut the hose off, and then insert that fitting into the hose from the new air filter pipe and secure with a hose clamp. You can trim some of the new hose from the air filter pipe, it is pretty long.
when you install the front clip assembly back onto the car, have someone hold up the driver side duct as you slide the assembly back onto the front of the car, the duct has to go over to oil cooler lines.
I used Wengerd for the tuning, he was very responsive, just understand that he is very busy and donāt expect immediate answers every time you email.
Thatās about it, here is a video showing how I routed everything, it should be pretty helpful as you are trying to figure out where everything goes.
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But I ain't got time for that LOL... If/when I do it, I have a guy that will do it for me. He did a good friend with a Mach 1 just like mine except his is 10 speed... He has installed countless superchargers and all kinds of performance goodies. I already have a Wengerd tune so he can just update my current to an ESS base file for me to start 
