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Mach 1 as a dual purpose street-track car (DE)

Tayley

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Great write up. Love my Mach. But torque is not something that comes to mind with the 5.0.
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RobZ71LM7

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Time for new camber plates. Was limited to -2.5 negative.
Ford adjustable camber plates compared to Vorshlag (both are driver's side).
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Dumb question: was the limit on the Ford camber plates the plates themselves or the strut tower opening size?
 

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Not dumb at all. The limitation in terms of travel are the Ford plates themselves. The the threaded strut top is what usually limits travel by hitting the side of the tower opening but with the Ford Performance plates it never gets that far over. Minus 2.5 is not bad by any means and for the occasional track outing it's okay. For optimal use however, the Mustang likes a bit more negative.
 
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You will get more camber out of these plates but you will still be limited by the strut tower opening. If you want to run -3.5 (DOT legal track tires) or -4.0 (mostly for folks running slicks) then you'll have to cut the strut tower tops.
 

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amber plates installed. Maximum camber shown
RU sure? That looks like CASTER, ie the camber plates need to be rotated 90 deg.
When looking at the driver, the slot should run LEFT-RIGHT, not front-back. Or does Vorshlag do things different?
 
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VictorH

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Picture is rotated, Mustang6g does that sometimes when you load. The strut top is leaning in toward the motor. Adjustable caster? That would be wild. The caster is adjustable but it's the two holes next to the silver allen-head bolt.
 

RobZ71LM7

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Picture is rotated, Mustang6g does that sometimes when you load. The strut top is leaning in toward the motor. Adjustable caster? That would be wild. The caster is adjustable but it's the two holes next to the silver allen-head bolt.
Did you just tighten the strut top nut conventionally? I was on Vorshlag’s page and surprised that they had a YouTube video with Terry Fair in it suggesting using an impact to ensure its right enough. I’ve never had that problem before.
 
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VictorH

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On one side I was able to use a torque wrench to get the top strut nut (It's a special extended one supplied by Vorshlag) to 70 ft lbs but on the other side the the plates would start spinning around at 35 ft lbs so that one I used an impact wrench. As long as you don't go crazy with your impact gun, I think you are fine. On my other car I had to use impact gun on both sides.

You do have another option which would be to buy one of those special sockets with the side cut out so you can hold the very top of the strut hex area with a wrench. That's probably best but for one or two uses, not really worth it for me.
 
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Another street report. As many of you know the standard 9 speaker stereo is really marginal. I'm not an audiophile but I can tell a really mediocre system from one that's better. I really don't want to do any upgrades that also add weight to the car. I've violated that principle, but just a little bit. Consequently, will never do a full audio upgrade. Trying to maintain as much of the track side and street use as possible, with best compromise for both.
Quite a few people have raved about the Hertz DCX 87.3 speakers. Just added that upgrade and for something that's relatively simple, it's definitely worthwhile. Much improved sound and fullness. Added Bass blockers at 600 Hz too per another forum member's recommendations.

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