Jacking rail question

[21M5033]

For those that have installed Jacking rails, did you remove the factory seam sealer near the front bolts or just leave it? I really don’t want to remove the factory seam sealer but still want a flush fit. Thanks.

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[dhborden]

Left it as it didn't interfere with installation.

 

[NGOT8R]

I shaved a small amount off with a razor blade.

 

[goldeneagle6747]

I left it as is, it didn’t interfere

 

[jsullboy]

It didn’t interfere with installation

 

[swoop1156]

No issues here.

 

[21M5033]

Thanks for the input everyone, looks like I’m good without removing the seam sealer. One additional question, I’m looking for a brand that will be slightly below the pinch weld for protection. Seems like some are and some aren’t. Can you recommend a brand that does and you’re happy with. I found an older post on the topic but would like updated info. Thanks.

 

[Johnny Rockit]

I used rhe Kenny Brown rails and scraped off the sealer. It is only overspray anyway I believe. Installation instructions say to remove it.
Steeda may be different, not sure.

 

[WD Pro]

Personally I think the seam sealer will be much like the shut lines i.e. very variable from one car to another, hence the variable answers you will get, which may not even be applicable to your car …

WD

 

[JetGray_Mach1]

Left seam sealer on, no fitment issues.

 

[Johnny550]

Installed Steeda rails on mine. Zero fitment issues and no issues with the seam sealer. And they fit flush with the seam.

i love having them on. Makes jacking the car up much quicker and more sure.

 

[murick]

I would like to share some thoughts after having installed the Steeda "full size, low profile" jacking rails on my M1, hoping it might be useful for those, like me, who think they might need jacking rails. (So this is not necessarily your case, @21M5033, but I thought I might use your generous topic name for this and for the benefit of future generations ).

The original scissor jack from Ford (we no longer get with our cars, but which can be had by other means), is designed to fit on the pinch weld - literally. It cannot (safely) interface a flat surface which the jacking rails have. So, if you decide to use this one, the jacking rails will not help, and may even get in the way.

The Steeda jacking rails (this may differ for the other brands), while being advertised as "full size" are pretty short (to accommodate other Steeda parts). I made a thread about it and about how to actually put a car with the rails on the jack stands here https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-set-the-jack-stands.190305/
(do not mind the discussion about the controversial jack stands placement).

The consequence was that whenever I needed to lift the car for some serious work, either by putting it on jack stands (which were properly set on a hard flat surface), or by using a four point "industrial" jack, I was always setting the support on jack points specified by Ford - the subframe in the front and the pinch weld close to the rear wheel well in the back. Never on jacking rails. It gave (at least visually) better front/back stability and in case of jack stands also got out of the way when doing something in the center of the underbody (e.g. swapping the shifter).

So I guess it all depends on the use cases and the tools you have. In my case it turned out that I actually have no use for them.

Coming to your question: I did remove the sealing foam before the installation, because otherwise the rails will not sit flat - I used a chisel for that. Then inspired by @WD Pro post somewhere here, treated the shaved part with something like Waxoyl to (hopefully) prevent a corrosion. Considering however some posts I saw here about the Steeda rails being rusty as hell, I would expect them to become a liability far sooner than a corroded chassis.

 

[WD Pro]

Then inspired by @WD Pro post somewhere here, treated the shaved part with something like Waxoyl to (hopefully) prevent a corrosion. Considering however some posts I saw here about the Steeda rails being rusty as hell, I would expect them to become a liability far sooner than a corroded chassis.

I think mild steel rails should be classed as sacrificial protection for the pinch welds, and be treated as such with regards to periodic maintenance.

In the right / wrong environment they will corrode, starting from the inevitable damage to the coating - remember that not everyone has the benefit of being in a year round mostly dry / low humidity / non winter salt environment.

Even if / when they get marked up and corroded, they are easy enough to remove quickly and thick enough (particularly the older designs) to stand many cycles of blasting and re-coating.

The inevitable corrosion (in my environment) and me not wanting to cut the seam sealer, is the reason I choose to go with stainless, to sit them on pads, and to give them a small airspace between the frame for the main part of the run (I didn’t want a full length moisture trap).

As mentioned by @murick above, contact points were covered in cavity wax pre assembly.

Damn our U.K. environment …

WD

 

[GTP]

I used a plastic putty knife to scrape the sealer flush then applied some anti rust paint. This is because I didn't want a metal tool to scratch the paint.

 

[cheeser]

I used a plastic putty knife to scrape the sealer flush then applied some anti rust paint. This is because I didn't want a metal tool to scratch the paint.

Did the same with mine.

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