Installing suspension this weekend - any tips?

[blankman]

I'm going to start doing my suspension Friday and am looking for any suggestions or tips? I've read the spherical bushings in the knuckles can be a pain , so im planning on renting a tool when I get to the rear. I'm also going to be installing camber plates in the new front shocks. Will be renting a spring compressor also. Read not to use an impact for the strut nut, I've watched a video on installing them but there was no provided torque value provided.

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[greasy]

Here are all of the torque specs you need.

Torque the components in red while the suspension is loaded. Easiest way is to jack up the corner of the vehicle right before it lifts off of the jackstands and then torque to spec.

 

[greasy]

When using a spring compressor for the front springs sometimes the seat of the strut can get in the way so be mindful of that. When I was installing the springs in the front it was way easier to assemble everything onto the strut, get that top nut started/spun on a few threads to hold the CC plate in place, then throw the strut into place, put the 3 nuts on the CC studs just to hold it in place, then jack of the corner to compress/seat the spring, and from there throw an impact on the strut top nut. I’ve always used an impact on it, just make sure that nut is threaded appropriately by hand before impacting, and as soon as the impact starts impacting stop.

For the rear, remove the catback from the hangers, support the IRS with a jack, and then loosen it. Drop front most bolts 1/4” to 1/2” and the rear most bolts I pull out completely, then thread back in a few turns. From here slowly lower the IRS to a resting position and you’ll be able to remove the springs easily.

 

[blankman]

Great info for thise torque specs, thanks. As far as the rear goes I'm also going to be doing the stop the hop starter install. With that said, would it be easier just to drop the rear subframe on both sides while supported with a jack to install the springs and everything else with the stop thenhop kit?

 

[greasy]

Great info for thise torque specs, thanks. As far as the rear goes I'm also going to be doing the stop the hop starter install. With that said, would it be easier just to drop the rear subframe on both sides while supported with a jack to install the springs and everything else with the stop thenhop kit?

Yes, exhaust off the car and both sides lowered. Only remove one subframe bolt at a time to install the alignment dowels/bushing upgrade. Tighten each subframe bolt equally on the IRS so nothing gets bound up, there will be way less play now with the dowels in.

 

[blankman]

Sorry, now that I think about it , the subframe is connected to the pumpkin, which is connected to the shafts. So I don't think I could just drop the whole rear subframe to do the springs and everything else at the same time. Unless I'm possibly missing something?

 

[greasy]

Sorry, now that I think about it , the subframe is connected to the pumpkin, which is connected to the shafts. So I don't think I could just drop the whole rear subframe to do the springs and everything else at the same time. Unless I'm possibly missing something?

Yes you can. I’ve done this a handful of times and as recently as a couple of weeks ago. The differential is attached to the IRS which attaches to the driveshaft and then to the trans.

 

[blankman]

So any recommendation on me just dropping the whole rear subframe to make it easier to get the springs out? Or should I just do each side separately?

Another question I just thought about, when reinstalling the new front shocks with the camber plates, is there any specific place as far as location in should shoot for installation? Obviously I'm going to get an alignment done after everything, but I'm just not sure if I should go centered for the plate or furthest in, etc?

 

[greasy]

So any recommendation on me just dropping the whole rear subframe to make it easier to get the springs out? Or should I just do each side separately?

Another question I just thought about, when reinstalling the new front shocks with the camber plates, is there any specific place as far as location in should shoot for installation? Obviously I'm going to get an alignment done after everything, but I'm just not sure if I should go centered for the plate or furthest in, etc?

No need to drop the subframe completely in my opinion. Just remove the catback, lower the front of the IRS 1/4”-1/2”, and the rear of the IRS to where the cradle bolts are threaded a few times. This will allow plenty of access to remove the rear springs. Do not tighten up one side before the other unless you want to make things more difficult for yourself.

I would just center the strut in the hole on the tower for the front. You’ll be fine to take the car out for a test spin and drive to an alignment shop.

 

[NightmareMoon]

you can usually get around the spring compressor if you're careful and use the car's weight. IMHO messing with screw type compressors just feels sketchy, so here are some other sketchy options.

To release, you can remove the top nut with the weight fully on the tires, then jack up that corner. Nothing will explode if the top nut is removed and the car is fully on the ground, and it comes apart slowly as you jack up the car.

To reinstall, if the springs are lowering springs, you sometimes can start the top nut w/o a spring compressor... or you can install the assembly without the top nut retaining the shaft and install the top nut when its back on the ground. The disadvantage is keeping your eyes on how the springs are seating to make sure they're going into place correctly.

Or you can just take the spring, shock, and top hat to a nearby shop with a proper wall mounted spring compressor machine and let them to it in about 30 seconds. That's probably ideal. They have better tools for the job than the screw things you rent from an autozone.

 

[Eyesac]

you can usually get around the spring compressor if you're careful and use the car's weight. IMHO messing with screw type compressors just feels sketchy, so here are some other sketchy options.

To release, you can remove the top nut with the weight fully on the tires, then jack up that corner. Nothing will explode if the top nut is removed and the car is fully on the ground, and it comes apart slowly as you jack up the car.

Agreed, or you can put the car on jack stands and just lift up the front wheel end with a jack a bit, remove all but one (loosen) of the three nuts on the top of the strut and lower the jack.

 

[greasy]

Agreed you can use the weight of the car

 

[jthompson473]

Get a friend to help out, the extra hands really came in handy when installing the front sway bar (lotta hoses doen there). The bearing is a beast to get out, even with a tool. My experience is based off the ford performance track suspensions kit.

 

[blankman]

I'd had asked the shop I usually take my cars get inspected at and they were very iffy about installing those plates for me when I asked a couple months ago. Being customer parts etc. So I may just try mavis up the road from me. They've hooked me up before just throwing the techs cash for stuff.

Yeah it's the track pack I'll be doing. I'm hoping...hoping that with it being a '23 everything will go smooth coming out....hoping.

Yeah im trying to recruit my nephew as he just picked up his first car last week. Wants to learn and mod his civic. So I told him I'd help him with his if he helps me with mine. Maybe even drive it.

 

[mookieit]

Here are all of the torque specs you need.

Torque the components in red while the suspension is loaded. Easiest way is to jack up the corner of the vehicle right before it lifts off of the jackstands and then torque to spec.

I will be using a lift and replacing all rear suspension components.

Wanted to make sure, I understand, I can put everything back together loosly and then jack up the rear lower control arm and then torque the bolts? Would that work to preload the suspension?

This is my first time.

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