Initial Modifcations to GT350

[ironguru49]

First of I wanted to thank everyone that helped me join the club, I have a GT350 2018 Kona Blue w/ white stripes waiting for me to return from deployment. I now have turned myself to looking at making a few changes recommended by a couple shipmates.

Cold air intake and Springs:

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-performance-lowering-wsprings-1517-gt350.html
I heard 1-2" lowering will increase the overall ride of the car. Any other recommendations?

https://www.jlttruecoldair.com/ZenC...ucts_id=1131&zenid=di5t1ov4nhmcuoqrmiamraop37
First time ever going into mods of a car, so unsure of what is required/difference between a Cold air intake w/ or w/o a tune required.

Thanks for all your help!

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[Demonic]

Congrats on the car. The cold air intake will do next to nothing though. The factory intake is huge. A tune will work, but you have a high risk of voiding your powertrain warranty. 2" of drop will turn the car into a bobsled. Even 1" will be tough if driving the car on anything other than salt flats. I would say drive the car a bit to get a feel for the ground clearance before dropping it at all. Because of the long nose overhang, even the Ford lowering springs may create less clearance than you'd like. @Niz55 has made several threads/posts about the different springs he's tried. I'd look through his posts to get some ideas.

 

[galaxy]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/must-have-mods.105961/

 

[ClayDee]

Ford Performance passenger side catch can, JLT rocker blockers, Ford Performance air filter, 15% ceramic window tint, Steeda jacking rails and G-trac brace are all good mods to begin with. No issue with voiding your warranty with those. IMHO, it's already lowered enough for my liking. I couldn't imagine lowering it anymore, I would be scraping everywhere. Nice color and congrats!

 

[Onyx]

I found that I scraped a lot with my car when driving around. I was installing some Vorshlag CC plates so I figured I would take a chance on some springs, I bought the Ford performance springs and they didn't slam the car or get rid of all the wheel well gap but the increased spring rate helped a lot with scraping even though I was lower, I no longer scraped in places where I did. (Also even when the car fully settled it was like .75" of drop) They gave me what I was looking for and also the CC plates allowed for a good alignment which was a great modification to the car. I haven't done sway bars as for now I am happy with what I have and for me the biggest mod I need is driver mods! I only do a few HPDE's a year and otherwise its just driving around. First mods I would do would be the CC plates, the lockout kit, rear subframe Bushing inserts and a performance Alignment. These are my current mods,
-Steeda G-trac brace, IRS subframe alignment bushings for the BMR lock out, Jacking rails
-BMR subframe lockout kit, Spherical vertical links
-Vorshlag CC plates
-Ford performance AOS both sides, Springs, Air filter
-MGW shifter
-Caliperfexion 4340 brake bolts
-Forge Star wheels and Hankook tires for DD

 

[15pgnatsum]

I already scrape like crazy at stock height. The car looks great with the stance it's at from the factory. I say this as someone who lowered both of his previous New Edges because those cars fucking needed to be dumped to the ground since they looked like 4x4s from the factory. Unlike most other cars, the GT350 really doesn't need aesthetic mods in my opinion except maybe a wheel change if they're not your thing.

But I would agree with others, drive the thing around for a month or so at stock height before spending money on springs because the lip will scrape everything at stock height. Even just normal residential neighborhood speed bumps and coming to the bottom of hills where they level out, I scrape pretty frequently. I have no idea how the 350R guys with the even longer lip manage unless they all live in the great plains.

 

[GrabberBlue]

Unless you want issues with warranty don't perform any engine/tune modifications, if your engine has issues they are going to point at those mods.

Here are some mods to think about doing to protect your car:

• 8 Years/125k or 150k Ford Extended Service Plan for at least PowerTrain - Immediately
• Ford Performance Passenger Side Catch Can - Immediately
• Automotive Authority GT350 Spare Tire Kit - Immediately
• PPF on Front Bumper, Hood, Roof, Front Half of Front Fenders and Rear Fenders - Immediately
• Headlight protection film - Immediately
• Instrument Cluster and Sync 3 Screen Protector - Immediately
• Gorilla Locking Lug Nuts - Immediately
• ZL1 Splitter Protection Washers - Immediately
• AMSOIL Oil Change - 1,000 miles
• Ford Performance Reusable Air Filter - 10,000-15,000 miles
• Caliperfexion 4340 brake bolts - First Brake Job

 

[GTthree50]

First off, Thank You for your service!! As the others have said use caution lowering a Shelby. With the splitter cantilevered out as far as it is, scraping is far too easy even at stock ride height. I have been driving lowered cars for many years and not had scraping issues. With this car it is not if but how often it will happen. Do your research and proceed slowly with any mechanical changes and really think about changing things and how the overall effect will be and if that will be what your after.

 

[lightrules]

I have no idea how the 350R guys with the even longer lip manage unless they all live in the great plains.

it's a pain. my brand new R, a few drives around town, bumped a parking block at my local Lowe's already (see pic). and yeah the underneath of the splitter is scraped up just on my driveway. but oh well.

OP, for my R, i've opted for initial mods as: JLT passenger catch can, steeda jacking rails, steeda g-trac brace, ZL1 splitter guards, rock guards, paint correction, paint film (clear bra), ceramic coating, and rayno S7 tint. as of tonight, i've only installed the catch can; everything else is sitting pretty in my garage waiting to be installed or put on.

 

[SVTinAR]

I bought about a dozen of those hard plastic surface, self-adhesive furniture sliders from Lowes, painted them black and stuck them to the underside of my front splitter. Even stuck a couple under the rear bumper pan for good measure. They take the brunt of any light scrapes and bumps. Have sacrificed one to a harder scrape but easy to replace. Don't want to subject the splitter to a hard bottoming though as it can bust things up in the bumper and splitter pieces in the bumper.

 

[ironguru49]

Thank you all for your inputs. I think for now I will stick with the recommendations of not lowers and getting the common modification w/o voiding a warranty. I do have 1 question about the AOS, do I only need 1 IE Pasanger or driver, or would it

 

[mavisky]

Just got my car two weeks ago, but initial modifications were Sullivan Racing Products pedals and the gas pedal spacer.

 

[galaxy]

The front splitter on this car is a sacrificial lamb, LOL. I went with R spec wheels and tires and my driveway is a daily challenge. Lowering is not even an option. Luckily I like the way mine looks anyways. Heck, I don't even think I could get away with a R splitter.

 

[lightrules]

I bought about a dozen of those hard plastic surface, self-adhesive furniture sliders from Lowes, painted them black and stuck them to the underside of my front splitter. Even stuck a couple under the rear bumper pan for good measure. They take the brunt of any light scrapes and bumps. Have sacrificed one to a harder scrape but easy to replace. Don't want to subject the splitter to a hard bottoming though as it can bust things up in the bumper and splitter pieces in the bumper.

got a link to these?

 

[Austinj427]

There is a stop sign out here where leading up to it, the road must have a slight dip that you can't really even feel. If you get on the brakes hard enough at the right time it will scrape the flat ground.

It's weird.

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