Idle drop at a stop - cool feature

[Madtel4]

Well when pressure plates are designed and engineered, the material chosen are based off of desired "cycles" over it's lifetime within a certain temp range. Generally a "cycle" would be and actual shift event, not depressing the pressure plate over extended periods of time. Sure some of that is factored, but as far as I know, not to the extent as described here.

With that said though, I don't mean in anyway that your pressure plate will be destroyed overnight, just simply wanted to state that "clutching in" all the time when at idle for a light our whatever, can cause abnormal fatigue, which in turn can cause early failure.

So the way you say to do it you will have 2 cycles not just one. Your valve spring all 32 of them on a GT are cycling all the time that's what springs do. The pressure plate will probably last 200K without shifting to neutral at every red light. (PS you should raise your ass of the seat at stop lights as to not overstress the seat springs)
Lee

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[Ace21]

So the way you say to do it you will have 2 cycles not just one. Your valve spring all 32 of them on a GT are cycling all the time that's what springs do. The pressure plate will probably last 200K without shifting to neutral at every red light. (PS you should raise your ass of the seat at stop lights as to not overstress the seat springs)
Lee

Sure bud, you can take away however you would like, but some common sense would see my statements intent and not tie them with some simplistic comparisons like valve springs, as they are truly springs designed for operations drastically different than a pressure plate.

Seats as well are only design to return from compression for X amount of time with X amount of weight hence the rating of different types of foam and densities.

I merely tried to offer an explanation of where the possible issues could come from, however, I also stated that I have not personally ever seen a failure due to the act.

Furthermore, my personal opinion is that you are far more likely to have other failures with the mt82 before ever seeing a possible failure from "clutching in".

 

[PJR202]

I'm really hoping that my next car is a 6MT Mustang - I keep going back and forth between the MT and the A10 - big pros and cons for both for me.

If I end up with the 6MT, it will very likely put me in a situation where nobody else in my family will drive the car. Even though my wife rarely drives my car as is, I still like knowing that she could drive it if she had to (I still think she could learn - she just has no interest in doing so).

I also have it in my head that the A10 will be better in the snow, as it can shift up in gears more quickly, and more accurately select the best gear for stability when I'm driving in tricky situations. Snow is going to be a big issue for 4 months out of the year, but if I want a Mustang, I have to make it a year round DD, and hope that rugged snow tires work 90% of the time (and my wife's SUV on really bad days).

Anyway, back on topic - thanks for clearing that up I can see how your reflexes would definitely increase while driving a 6MT.

I told my wife she needed to learn how to drive it in case we're gone somewhere and for some reason I'm not able or available to drive it home. She was cool with that.

 

[Bravo]

I told my wife she needed to learn how to drive it in case we're gone somewhere and for some reason I'm not able or available to drive it home. She was cool with that.

I know for a fact that my wife could learn how to drive a manual, and I think she'd be really good at it - she just has zero interest in learning how.

With that said, if I bring one home, and she could possibly be in a situation like you stated, I think she might be open to learning the basics.

 

[Braski]

Holly cow guys just drive the car and forget about all this trivial nonsense. If you drive the crap out of your car and drag race it you'll be upgrading the clutch anyways within 20k miles like me!:lol::lol::lol:

 

[gbgreen]

[ame]

At 1:59, he starts talking about having the clutch in while stopped (which is his #2 Thing Not To Do). Whole vid is only 8:31 long. He has a similar vid for auto transmissions. Also has a series of vids on various topics of interest regarding auto engineering.

Just another data point...

 

[MaxHedrm]

This is amusing, I go away for a bit & you guys turn this thread into a religious war over clutch use.

Just so you know, it does the same thing in neutral, so your pissing match is irrelevant.

 

[VinnAY]

This is something I hadn't seen anyone mention. Have a 2018 GT PP Manual. When I'm stopped, in gear, clutch in, foot on the brake my idle is something around 620-640. Let off the brake it jumps about 100 to 740. Foot back on the brake it goes back down.

Looks like a tiny little fuel saving measure. Drop it down when they know you're not about to go, then bump it up a smidge to improve drive-ability. I can't imagine it saves much, but it must be enough to make it worth it.

You guys can observe the most benign thing and turn it in to the goofiest garbage imaginable.

 

[H@mmer]

At 1:59, he starts talking about having the clutch in while stopped (which is his #2 Thing Not To Do). Whole vid is only 8:31 long. He has a similar vid for auto transmissions. Also has a series of vids on various topics of interest regarding auto engineering.

Just another data point...

I have ZERO faith in this guy. I watched a couple videos of him driving cars and he was saying and doing the stupidest shit. Then I saw one where he was at a press event for a truck and the OEM engineer they had riding with him had to explain just the simplest of things to this guy.

I wouldn't take this guy's word for very much just because he makes a video of it.

 

[Anthony 05 GT]

One of our road techs needed a throwout bearing at 103k miles on the service truck. It just got real noisy. We put a new clutch package in and the same truck now has 285k miles and the bearing is just now starting to make a little noise. Back when the 1st one got noisy we had a discussion about him sitting at lights with his foot on the clutch pedal. He stopped doing that immediately and got quite a bit more life out of the new OEM bearing. Common sense

Also, I realize the bearing can lightly touch the clutch diaphragm all the time on some setups, but that's not the same as having it spin with a load on it.

 

[EFI]

When I'm stopped, in gear, clutch in, foot on the brake my idle is something around 620-640. Let off the brake it jumps about 100 to 740. Foot back on the brake it goes back down.

Looks like a tiny little fuel saving measure.

Considering how the 15-17 GT has the idle at 625 all the time, the fact that it jumps 100rpm to 700 is actually a fuel burning strategy.

 

[Kinjirra]

Ok if your worried about wear on your throw out bearing at stop lights...stop modding your car. Everything you do can shorten the life of all types of things. So silly to worry about a wear item that will most likely outlast a lot of other more important parts especially if you track your car.

Been driving manuals for 30 years and only ever replaced one clutch my whole life. I clutch in at every light...

 

[tranceporter]

I don't leave the clutch depressed when stopped simply because it's not necessary and that's what the dead pedal is for.

 

[Cheo]

I think all manuals since 2015 do this, it’s also very useful as part of the “creep” feature in heavy traffic. My 08 Shelby doesn’t do this.

 

[MaxHedrm]

Considering how the 15-17 GT has the idle at 625 all the time, the fact that it jumps 100rpm to 700 is actually a fuel burning strategy.

Someone else mentioned that it's more of a drivability improvement. bumps the idle up a bit to make 1st easier to deal with for those that need the help.

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