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Elp_jc
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If 2 sheet-metal panels are creaking against each other, the best solution (if possible) is to squeeze something in-between, to act as a wedge. If not possible, that's when a liquid/semi-liquid type of sealer is needed, but unless they penetrate really well, it's not that effective. I'm going to order a Pioneer sub for my car, and when I install it, will do the right panel removal, and investigate. Also noticed removing the upper rear panel shouldn't be that hard, so might do that too, and kill that damn rattle once and for all 
. Thanks gang.
. Thanks gang.Thegipper
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I realized that loctite is anaerobic and needs a primer to set. I see that professionals have what look to me to be pretty complex setups for using loctite to make it set.If 2 sheet-metal panels are creaking against each other, the best solution (if possible) is to squeeze something in-between, to act as a wedge. If not possible, that's when a liquid/semi-liquid type of sealer is needed, but unless they penetrate really well, it's not that effective. I'm going to order a Pioneer sub for my car, and when I install it, will do the right panel removal, and investigate. Also noticed removing the upper rear panel shouldn't be that hard, so might do that too, and kill that damn rattle once and for all
For simple commercial use, what’s the best option to bond sheet metal?
GT 550
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Can't see how a thread lock/sealer is going to do much in this case unless they tried to have it seep between the panels to create a membrane type of insulator.
To 'bond' sheet metal in overlap you need to take the two pieces apart and use an industrial strength adhesive between them eg epoxy but that won't necessarily stop resonance. If the noise comes from the panels moving against each other there's probably creaking as well so it might be worth using a piece of Dynamat on each side of the offending panels, with a fair amount of overlap, and pressed on hard so there are no air pockets.
To 'bond' sheet metal in overlap you need to take the two pieces apart and use an industrial strength adhesive between them eg epoxy but that won't necessarily stop resonance. If the noise comes from the panels moving against each other there's probably creaking as well so it might be worth using a piece of Dynamat on each side of the offending panels, with a fair amount of overlap, and pressed on hard so there are no air pockets.
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Digital_Synapse
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This is so interesting. This entire time I thought my rattle was coming from my koni shock rod moving inside the drilled out area of the shock mounts. The rattle started for me right after installing my Konis. After the cat deletes and the cords extremes went on I don’t really hear it anymore lol
TicTocTach
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I think it must be a Loctite branded product, not just the thread locker. It wouldn't ever set up exposed to air. Maybe something like this:
https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/...loctite_power_grabexpressmoldingpaneling.html
TicTocTach
Well-Known Member
Depending on how long it stays pliable, you might be able to squeeze or "spackle" some between the seam. Something that would expand to fill voids might also work.
Elp_jc
Well-Known Member
If you can't shove something in-between the panels, the other option is to drill a hole and preferably install a screw and a nylock nut behind. If you can't reach the back, then a sheetmetal screw, but you'd have to drill the first hole larger, so the screw tightens the back piece to the front one. The only problem with that is that it can back out over time, but better than 'loctite' IMO.
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Brandon_s550gt
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Okay I have stopped the c-pillar/ rear passenger side rattle! Going strong for 2 days now. I have tried everything in the threads I could find on the issue from the control device in the trunk to spraying the gaps with expanding foam behind the c pillar cover, I installed sound deadening material in the entire trunk area and under the deck where the speakers are. I also used seam sealer on some of the panels in the trunk as discussed in some of the threads. Nothing worked, but Here's what stopped it for me.
I removed the passenger side rear trim panel, just the lower half, it's easily removable and comes out in one part. I bought sound deadening sheets off Amazon and applied to the entire area that's exposed behind the plastic trim panel that I removed. I also added felt and tessa tape to the metal clips. The foam on the back side of the panel was broken off on one other hold down points, I don't know if it broke when removing the panel or when being installed at the factory, but just be careful when removing it you don't bump it because the foam looks like it could break by just looking at it. I used automotive adhesive and hot glue to repair the foam. I also applied small felt tip pads on the perimeter of the foam panel that buts up to the sheet metal. Reinstalled and it's nice and quiet. Taking a 10 hour road trip to drive the tail of the Dragon next week, that will be the ultimate test to see if this fix holds up.
I removed the passenger side rear trim panel, just the lower half, it's easily removable and comes out in one part. I bought sound deadening sheets off Amazon and applied to the entire area that's exposed behind the plastic trim panel that I removed. I also added felt and tessa tape to the metal clips. The foam on the back side of the panel was broken off on one other hold down points, I don't know if it broke when removing the panel or when being installed at the factory, but just be careful when removing it you don't bump it because the foam looks like it could break by just looking at it. I used automotive adhesive and hot glue to repair the foam. I also applied small felt tip pads on the perimeter of the foam panel that buts up to the sheet metal. Reinstalled and it's nice and quiet. Taking a 10 hour road trip to drive the tail of the Dragon next week, that will be the ultimate test to see if this fix holds up.
TicTocTach
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting these pics and detailed description of what you did - I think eventually we'll have isolated the actual cause of the rattle / squeak, or will have foamed/padded/glued every cavity of our cars... Mine is getting worse, so I'm going to have to dive back in when I get some free time. So much to do.Okay I have stopped the c-pillar/ rear passenger side rattle! Going strong for 2 days now. I have tried everything in the threads I could find on the issue from the control device in the trunk to spraying the gaps with expanding foam behind the c pillar cover, I installed sound deadening material in the entire trunk area and under the deck where the speakers are. I also used seam sealer on some of the panels in the trunk as discussed in some of the threads. Nothing worked, but Here's what stopped it for me.
I removed the passenger side rear trim panel, just the lower half, it's easily removable and comes out in one part. I bought sound deadening sheets off Amazon and applied to the entire area that's exposed behind the plastic trim panel that I removed. I also added felt and tessa tape to the metal clips. The foam on the back side of the panel was broken off on one other hold down points, I don't know if it broke when removing the panel or when being installed at the factory, but just be careful when removing it you don't bump it because the foam looks like it could break by just looking at it. I used automotive adhesive and hot glue to repair the foam. I also applied small felt tip pads on the perimeter of the foam panel that buts up to the sheet metal. Reinstalled and it's nice and quiet. Taking a 10 hour road trip to drive the tail of the Dragon next week, that will be the ultimate test to see if this fix holds up.
Looking forward to your positive report when you get back from the Tail! Be careful out there!
Thegipper
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Hi All,
I had 2 noises from the right rear.
The first was a creak just when the car would take off and slow down to a full stop. from 0-5mph was just annoying. The cause was metal in this region in the pic above that needed to be bent and have caulking placed.
The second noise was the one where over uneven roads it sounded like crinkling/rustling leaves. For that, the fix was tightening everything in the rear right suspension area. Likely a bushing that wasn't tight.
I can finally definitively say, that these were true 100% fixes. My guess is the majority of the sounds people hear over bumpy roads is likely from the suspension.
I had 2 noises from the right rear.
The first was a creak just when the car would take off and slow down to a full stop. from 0-5mph was just annoying. The cause was metal in this region in the pic above that needed to be bent and have caulking placed.
The second noise was the one where over uneven roads it sounded like crinkling/rustling leaves. For that, the fix was tightening everything in the rear right suspension area. Likely a bushing that wasn't tight.
I can finally definitively say, that these were true 100% fixes. My guess is the majority of the sounds people hear over bumpy roads is likely from the suspension.
Thegipper
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Haha. Seriously. The amount of troubleshooting we have done is legendary.
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