I went ALL IN on C-Pillar rattle

[Elp_jc]

can you post links to these please JC?

Found it for you : https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/leak-area-behind-passenger-flooded-with-water.101947/

My car has the middle right sticker bent like the first picture on the 2nd page. Damn. Didn't see the hole, but it's probably like 1mm away. Need to find rubber plugs to take care of the problem once and for all. Need to fully open the door, and see how hard the sticker is. I could put some silicon in the mean time.

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[GT 550]

Thanks very much JC. Unbelievable!

 

[Thegipper]

So annoying

 

[ice445]

So the freaking panels are creaking against each other, due to the lack of tack welds? How the hell can we fix that? It's really disappointing how cheaply these cars are built. Just saw another thread where your car can get flooded if SIX stupid stickers (painted over) become undone, which is only a matter of time. And the rear foot well gets flooded due to lack of seam sealer on the rails, sending techs and owners on a wild goose chase, thinking it's something at the back. Crazy.

I don't think any of that is super common. I still have zero issues of any kind with any rattles or whatever. The picture he posted looks like seam sealer to me instead of welds, which makes sense given the tack welds would be lower. I tried zooming in but I can't quite tell.

 

[Thegipper]

It was lithium grease and it didn’t help at all.

 

[jimmerheck]

what about squirting panel bond between those metal parts, its an auto body adhesive used to connect 2 metal panels (thanks Graveyard Cars). I assume you can buy it at an auto body paint store.

 

[Thegipper]

I posted this follow-up video in another thread. The problem seems to be the entire metal sheet in the right trunk area where the electronics module is under the trunk liner. It’s currently being fixed under warranty: the dealership sent it to a bodyshop.

 

[Elp_jc]

The problem seems to be the entire metal sheet in the right trunk area where the electronics module is under the trunk liner.

Great find. What do you need to remove to get to that area? And is it possible to lodge a piece of hard rubber behind it, to avoid the creaking?

 

[Thegipper]

Great find. What do you need to remove to get to that area? And is it possible to lodge a piece of hard rubber behind it, to avoid the creaking?

You need to remove the subwoofer if you have one in the trunk the trunk liner. Yes, you can do that. You could also put loctite along the edges of the panel on the joints; the body shop my car was taken to put it on just the “lower” seam between the metal sheet the electronics module is attached to and the metal sheet above it; it’s helped about 80%.

 

[TicTocTach]

You need to remove the subwoofer if you have one in the trunk the trunk liner. Yes, you can do that. You could also put loctite along the edges of the panel on the joints; the body shop my car was taken to put it on just the “lower” seam between the metal sheet the electronics module is attached to and the metal sheet above it; it’s helped about 80%.

So is that what the body shop is going to do - add some sort of seam sealer / panel bond, or are they going to weld something to be tighter? That little triangular piece where the module is attached seemed really flimsy to me, but the foam I added between the module and the panel didn't solve my problem either. If that piece has some resonance, you may be able to add some weight to change the resonant frequency. If the creaking / groaning sound is from the larger panel itself, the Locktite / panel bond is probably the way to go. Looks like another project for me... Thanks for digging in to this!

 

[Thegipper]

So is that what the body shop is going to do - add some sort of seam sealer / panel bond, or are they going to weld something to be tighter? That little triangular piece where the module is attached seemed really flimsy to me, but the foam I added between the module and the panel didn't solve my problem either. If that piece has some resonance, you may be able to add some weight to change the resonant frequency. If the creaking / groaning sound is from the larger panel itself, the Locktite / panel bond is probably the way to go. Looks like another project for me... Thanks for digging in to this!

No problem. If it were me, I’d put loctite along all the edges on the larger piece above the triangular piece the module is attached to.

What I don’t know in detail is exactly what type of loctite they used. There are so many on the market.

what I may do is put a long strip of tape on the larger piece to see if that helps. It’s easy and reversible too.

This upper part near the rear glass may be the real culprit. You could put something behind it to test it.

 

[Dave2013M3]

I made some progress yesterday. I sprayed silicone lubricant into the area in the pic and it resolved the ticking sound completely and the creaking by about 50%.

Can you circle where exactly you sprayed..

 

[Thegipper]

Can you circle where exactly you sprayed..

In the area shown, but it really didn’t help. I’d address the sheet metal above the module in the trunk first.

 

[Dave2013M3]

Im getting more of a buzz or resonance on road vibration and exhaust in this area. More of a buzzing then a chirp or rattle. Driving me fooking nuts. I had a 2013 E92 M3 since new had 38k miles and it was way quieter as far as interior buzzes and such, and that car had a sunroof.

Dave

 

[Thegipper]

Im getting more of a buzz or resonance on road vibration and exhaust in this area. More of a buzzing then a chirp or rattle. Driving me fooking nuts. I had a 2013 E92 M3 since new had 38k miles and it was way quieter as far as interior buzzes and such, and that car had a sunroof.

Dave

My thought is the reason most people have the sound from the passenger side is because it is asymmetric due to the electronics module and the metal sheet extending all the way up to the area of the rear glass only in the right trunk area. The thin metal sheet touches right in that rear right corner in the picture.

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