TheShit
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- Jun 22, 2021
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- 2021 Mustang GT Manual
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I have the stage 2.5 Snow Performance Kit that comes with a tank. My car is a 21 Mustang Gt with a Vortech V3 J-T trim kit.... here are my tips
1. Fuse taps are your friend for getting power
2. Clean out your tank, and then when you think you have it clean, clean it another 10 times. Even if you have an air compressor and blow out the tank, there are still little plastic bits from drilling holes in it, that will make it's way through the system and into the nozzle. I ended up flushing my tank with a garden hose and that worked really well.
3. Before you install the nozzle, fill the tank with water, then get an empty jug and point the hose into the jub and prime the pump. Even after cleaning my tank out with a garden hose, there was still a few little plastic fibers and slivers that made it through everything. If you did this while the nozzle was attached, you could end up clogging it up. Do this a few times to verify there are no plastic bits before installing the nozzle.
4. If you install your tank in the trunk, the solenoid is best installed after the pump. I found a video online and the guy had his solenoid installed between the pump and the tank, and that doesn't work that well.
5. Before you drill holes into your trunk, make sure there isn't something under the car in that area. The self tapping screws they give you, are very, very long and have no problem drilling into stuff you can't see.
6. If you don't have a spare tire in your trunk, the bracket that holds jack in place is an easy place to ground everything, it already has treaded holes that you can use to secure your ground wires.
7. In the trunk, at least in my base model GT, there is a gromet that is not used towards the back of the car that goes outside the car. So if you want to run the line to the engine under the car, you can do it there without having to drill any new holes. (Just note, if you do use that hole, you will need to mount the solenoid as close to that hole as possible, which means the pump and tank will need to be close as well.)
8. If you already have a mechanical boost gauge installed, the controller install is 1000X easier, because you unscrew the fitting from the back of your existing boost guage and it will screw directly into the back of the new boost gauge/controler from Snow Perf.
9. They hose I had with my kit (braided line) was just long enough to work, but not long enough to give you a lot of different options. If you want to run the line under the car, you don't have nearly as many options IMO. For the moment, I have my line running inside my car. The braided line is a little too thick to run along the plastic cover near the door jam. So it doesn't look all that great. At some point I'll have to revisit the run and make it look better. Right now it looks like a 16yr old kid installed a sub in the trunk for the first time. Sure it works, but it doesn't look pretty at all.
10. The self tapping screws work just fine, but the metal in the trunk area is pretty thin. So it only takes a few times to unscrew and screw back into that hole, before it stops gripping the threads on the screw. After my tune is finished, I'm going back and replacing the screws with bolts, nuts and washers.
11. The tube of thread sealant they give you is just enough to work. I went ahead and purchased a tube of E6000 which I ended up needing to use after I had to disconnect and reconnect suff numerous times as I perfected my layout.
12. If you buy the kit from a trusted vendor and it says it's for your car, it's probably not going to come with nozzles that fit your car LoL. I selected the kit for a boosted mustang gt, and they send you 4gph and 6gph nozzles. Going by their chart, the 6gph nozzle is good for 450 crank HP between 5-9psi. So when you buy the kit, you need to check their chart and order nozzles for your setup. https://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/nozzle_selection_guide.jpg
13. If you have a vortech kit or any kit that has rubber hoses that go intot the throttle body, you might need to purchase this https://www.nitrousexpress.com/nozzle-mount-adapter-sno-40110.asp. It allows you to mount the nozzle on a rubber hose. Just make sure that you're intake tube (if you have one) doesn't end up resting on top fo the nozzle after you mount it. I had this issue on a Vortech V3-JT kit.
I plan on updating this post later with pictures to explain things better.
The install took a good 4 hours to install, but probably an additional 2 hours in making adjustments to make it fit the way I wanted. If I had to do it again on someone elses car, it would take 2 hours max. The install is actually really simple, the instructions they give you are enough to work, but they don't hold your hand through the process.
1. Fuse taps are your friend for getting power
2. Clean out your tank, and then when you think you have it clean, clean it another 10 times. Even if you have an air compressor and blow out the tank, there are still little plastic bits from drilling holes in it, that will make it's way through the system and into the nozzle. I ended up flushing my tank with a garden hose and that worked really well.
3. Before you install the nozzle, fill the tank with water, then get an empty jug and point the hose into the jub and prime the pump. Even after cleaning my tank out with a garden hose, there was still a few little plastic fibers and slivers that made it through everything. If you did this while the nozzle was attached, you could end up clogging it up. Do this a few times to verify there are no plastic bits before installing the nozzle.
4. If you install your tank in the trunk, the solenoid is best installed after the pump. I found a video online and the guy had his solenoid installed between the pump and the tank, and that doesn't work that well.
5. Before you drill holes into your trunk, make sure there isn't something under the car in that area. The self tapping screws they give you, are very, very long and have no problem drilling into stuff you can't see.
6. If you don't have a spare tire in your trunk, the bracket that holds jack in place is an easy place to ground everything, it already has treaded holes that you can use to secure your ground wires.
7. In the trunk, at least in my base model GT, there is a gromet that is not used towards the back of the car that goes outside the car. So if you want to run the line to the engine under the car, you can do it there without having to drill any new holes. (Just note, if you do use that hole, you will need to mount the solenoid as close to that hole as possible, which means the pump and tank will need to be close as well.)
8. If you already have a mechanical boost gauge installed, the controller install is 1000X easier, because you unscrew the fitting from the back of your existing boost guage and it will screw directly into the back of the new boost gauge/controler from Snow Perf.
9. They hose I had with my kit (braided line) was just long enough to work, but not long enough to give you a lot of different options. If you want to run the line under the car, you don't have nearly as many options IMO. For the moment, I have my line running inside my car. The braided line is a little too thick to run along the plastic cover near the door jam. So it doesn't look all that great. At some point I'll have to revisit the run and make it look better. Right now it looks like a 16yr old kid installed a sub in the trunk for the first time. Sure it works, but it doesn't look pretty at all.
10. The self tapping screws work just fine, but the metal in the trunk area is pretty thin. So it only takes a few times to unscrew and screw back into that hole, before it stops gripping the threads on the screw. After my tune is finished, I'm going back and replacing the screws with bolts, nuts and washers.
11. The tube of thread sealant they give you is just enough to work. I went ahead and purchased a tube of E6000 which I ended up needing to use after I had to disconnect and reconnect suff numerous times as I perfected my layout.
12. If you buy the kit from a trusted vendor and it says it's for your car, it's probably not going to come with nozzles that fit your car LoL. I selected the kit for a boosted mustang gt, and they send you 4gph and 6gph nozzles. Going by their chart, the 6gph nozzle is good for 450 crank HP between 5-9psi. So when you buy the kit, you need to check their chart and order nozzles for your setup. https://www.nitrousexpress.com/images/nozzle_selection_guide.jpg
13. If you have a vortech kit or any kit that has rubber hoses that go intot the throttle body, you might need to purchase this https://www.nitrousexpress.com/nozzle-mount-adapter-sno-40110.asp. It allows you to mount the nozzle on a rubber hose. Just make sure that you're intake tube (if you have one) doesn't end up resting on top fo the nozzle after you mount it. I had this issue on a Vortech V3-JT kit.
I plan on updating this post later with pictures to explain things better.
The install took a good 4 hours to install, but probably an additional 2 hours in making adjustments to make it fit the way I wanted. If I had to do it again on someone elses car, it would take 2 hours max. The install is actually really simple, the instructions they give you are enough to work, but they don't hold your hand through the process.
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