I dont know how you guys do it...

[Dusten]

Second outing in the gt.

2018, a10, pp1. Stock.

My 1/8th mile experience wasn't bad. Small learning curve. I've got 100s of passes under my belt, but all in a high torque vehicle on slicks. So much different than my gt.

However after two passes today I parked it.

First pass was awful due to weather. It had rained, they let us run, but the track wasnt dry. I left @ 1800ish, spun and lifted. 2.78 60'. It felt like ice. I was watching big tire cars get real sideways after me.
Car ran a 14.337 @ 113.1
Any and all data was useless.

Second pass, car in drive, advance trac off, drag mode on.
Left @ 1300, car hooked ok. 1.9 60'
Car shifted into Second, I got the expected wheel hop, and it basically shut down. I had to hit the pedal 3 or 4 times before anything happened.

14.4 @ 110

I dont know why it shut down like that, but I think I'll stick to my lightning for straight line stuff.

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[Nagare]

Sweet, I'm faster than an A10 GT

Sounds like you should try leaving a lot higher if you can and also do a stop the hop kit (like the basic subframe support brace) and not go on days where it's raining. The MPH is definitely better, the launch isn't. Might even want to try pulling the fuse or unplugging the connector by the air intake to disable traction control entirely.

 

[Dusten]

Sweet, I'm faster than an A10 GT

Sounds like you should try leaving a lot higher if you can and also do a stop the hop kit (like the basic subframe support brace) and not go on days where it's raining. The MPH is definitely better, the launch isn't. Might even want to try pulling the fuse or unplugging the connector by the air intake to disable traction control entirely.

A) I don't mod the dd, so I'll have to live with it.
B) I think the second launch was ok, there's a little left, but not much
C) it wasn't raining when I left...
D) the connector will disable drag mode. Sort of defeats the purpose.

The car has trapped 93 in the 1/8th. It has 118-119 mph traps of I can get it not to fall on its face.

I'm confused as to why it did

 

[hlfbkd420]

I had mine hit the rev limiter shifting to second in sport mode the other night.. Pissed me off. It was shifting itself too.

 

[NC85]

Tires. You can fight it all you want, but I’m a believer in track tires at the track. DR or slick, pick one and run.

It’s a loosing battle and all it’ll take is having the car unload and load just right and you’ll be pointed and headed directly for the stands. I learned this back in the late 90s with a HCI (low 12 second) car that got squirrelly, but didn’t wreck, and I said that was it.

Get a tire and gain some control, consistency, and your respect back after some running some crappy passes.

I’ve said it here, some of these fantastic times in stock form come from a perfect combination of good weather and awesome track prep. I’ve found and you’ve seen first hand locally, awesome prep is not such an easy thing to find on most T&T events. A lot of these folks couldn’t repeat that magic 11 second run stock run because of the lack of either condition in perfect form.

I’d put money on the car was likely baking in the staging lanes (these cars heat up fast) killing all your good timing combined with a WOT and unloading and loading event didn’t play nice with the ECU. You can see it in the variance between your first pass and the second between your 60’ and 330’. What were your IATs on the second pass?

 

[Nagare]

A) I don't mod the dd, so I'll have to live with it.
B) I think the second launch was ok, there's a little left, but not much
C) it wasn't raining when I left...
D) the connector will disable drag mode. Sort of defeats the purpose.

The car has trapped 93 in the 1/8th. It has 118-119 mph traps of I can get it not to fall on its face.

I'm confused as to why it did

a) fair enough, but the Steeda braces don't require dropping anything to install really. The CB005 you can drop one side at a time.
b) 2 seconds and 4-6MPH
c) I figured that much, just thinking that rain may have affected track prep
d) if drag mode still allows power to be cut (like you described on the 2nd pass), it defeats the purpose

I'm definitely not a drag guy by any means (had my first night on Friday, 13.9 @ 100) so takes these with a shaker full of salt.

 

[Dusten]

a) fair enough, but the Steeda braces don't require dropping anything to install really. The CB005 you can drop one side at a time.
b) 2 seconds and 4-6MPH
c) I figured that much, just thinking that rain may have affected track prep
d) if drag mode still allows power to be cut (like you described on the 2nd pass), it defeats the purpose

I'm definitely not a drag guy by any means (had my first night on Friday, 13.9 @ 100) so takes these with a shaker full of salt.

For B, you have to look at the 60' separate from the run. The car shut down on the 1-2 shift after the sixty foot. So anything beyond that is useless.

As far as the steeda kit, its not a matter of work. I dont like taking money from my toys or the house to mod my daily.

 

[poncho@home]

Running with OEM tires requires a perfect storm of track prep, good feel for the car and good skills. I agree with the statement above to go with DRs or even slicks.

I used to bracket race a mid 12 second Firebird years ago. On drag radials I was consistent and won many rounds. Years later I was racing a high 13s Firebird on street tires, but with supporting suspension mods and was able to cut 1.9x all day long consistently.

All this to say, I have a fair amount of track experience, but last fall could not launch my '17 GT for the life of me. Seat time will help, and so will will proper suspension work and tires to get the most out of it.

I already have installed BMW CB005 with Steeda pins and will be also installing BMW CB762 & TCA048 to help. These are simple bolt-on mods that are completely reversible and improve the feel of the rear end even for a daily driver.

 

[Dusten]

Tires. You can fight it all you want, but I’m a believer in track tires at the track. DR or slick, pick one and run.

I get your point. I'm not buying wheels and tires for a car that might see 1 track outing a year.

I’d put money on the car was likely baking in the staging lanes (these cars heat up fast) killing all your good timing combined with a WOT and unloading and loading event didn’t play nice with the ECU. You can see it in the variance between your first pass and the second between your 60’ and 330’. What were your IATs on the second pass?

The variance in sixty was track prep(still damp on the first run) and the 330' was because on run 2 the car basically shut off.

I lucked out in the staging lanes. I was next up and they decided to run jr dragsters. So the car sat an hour before I ran. Iat was 88* and cht was 190*

 

[Dusten]

Running with OEM tires requires a perfect storm of track prep, good feel for the car and good skills. I agree with the statement above to go with DRs or even slicks.

I used to bracket race a mid 12 second Firebird years ago. On drag radials I was consistent and won many rounds. Years later I was racing a high 13s Firebird on street tires, but with supporting suspension mods and was able to cut 1.9x all day long consistently.

All this to say, I have a fair amount of track experience, but last fall could not launch my '17 GT for the life of me. Seat time will help, and so will will proper suspension work and tires to get the most out of it.

I already have installed BMW CB005 with Steeda pins and will be also installing BMW CB762 & TCA048 to help. These are simple bolt-on mods that are completely reversible and improve the feel of the rear end even for a daily driver.

I agree on all counts. I bracket raced my first lightning for 3 seasons and ive got a few hundred passes with my current truck.

My biggest question from yesterday was even with advancetrac off why did the car shut its self down. It is confusing.

 

[poncho@home]

I agree on all counts. I bracket raced my first lightning for 3 seasons and ive got a few hundred passes with my current truck.

My biggest question from yesterday was even with advancetrac off why did the car shut its self down. It is confusing.

You are not the first person I have read that experienced this with a 2018+ 10 speed. From what I've read its boils down to the shifting being so aggressive and it causes bad wheel hop that triggers the advancetrac. Just to confirm, are you certain that you turned off the advancetrac before the run? Does Drag Mode disable it? I know for my 2017 GT, I would press and hold the traction control for a few seconds to disable both Traction control and Advancetrac. Just toggling it once would only disable Traction control.

 

[brucelinc]

I had the shut down at the 1-2 shift when I was running P-zeros and had the wheel hop. I am not sure if it hit the rev limiter, went into limp mode or exactly what happened but wheel hop is the enemy. I had the CB005 kit and still had violent wheel hop. With the stock tires, I could not use drag mode. I had to just run in sport mode so the shifts were less violent. Once I got DRs, my problems were solved, I could use drag mode and my wheel hop was gone with high 11 times.

Since you do not want to mess with DRs, at least do something to eliminate the wheel hop....Steeda stop the hop and/or stickier tires.

 

[NC85]

The variance in sixty was track prep(still damp on the first run) and the 330' was because on run 2 the car basically shut off.

I lucked out in the staging lanes. I was next up and they decided to run jr dragsters. So the car sat an hour before I ran. Iat was 88* and cht was 190*[/QUOTE]

You're not tuned, but you can bet your bottom dollar there is STILL some torque management on a stock car even in DRAG mode. That's where your problem is.

 

[Dusten]

You are not the first person I have read that experienced this with a 2018+ 10 speed. From what I've read its boils down to the shifting being so aggressive and it causes bad wheel hop that triggers the advancetrac. Just to confirm, are you certain that you turned off the advancetrac before the run? Does Drag Mode disable it? I know for my 2017 GT, I would press and hold the traction control for a few seconds to disable both Traction control and Advancetrac. Just toggling it once would only disable Traction control.

I'm positive I turned it off. You hold the tc switch till the dash says advance trac off. No drag mode doesnt disable it.

I had the shut down at the 1-2 shift when I was running P-zeros and had the wheel hop. I am not sure if it hit the rev limiter, went into limp mode or exactly what happened but wheel hop is the enemy. I had the CB005 kit and still had violent wheel hop. With the stock tires, I could not use drag mode. I had to just run in sport mode so the shifts were less violent. Once I got DRs, my problems were solved, I could use drag mode and my wheel hop was gone with high 11 times.

Since you do not want to mess with DRs, at least do something to eliminate the wheel hop....Steeda stop the hop and/or stickier tires.

Like I said, I'll just keep the car off the track.

 

[Cardude99]

What was the da for that day? My trap speed can vary about 7 mph and a full second with a crappy da.

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