My car has a Roush non-active exhaust that I pulled the baffles out of. I made my car substantially louder, not quieter. I did not "miss it" before. I have both, but I'd take the tick all day over the rattle. I've done nothing thus far, but it appears the tick can be mitigated completely on a temporary basis for 24 bucks and 30 seconds in my garage. It has been verified on video tons of times for all to see. The rattle has no known fix other than a new freaking engine, IF you can get Ford to agree to install one for you, taking several months in most cases, and it is likely that the new engine you get, will start to rattle inside 10K miles too.My guess is those who say didn't have the rattle before, just hadn't heard it before, which is different. I thought my car didn't have it too, and when I put the exhaust in quiet, and left the stereo off, BAM! There it was. Ha ha. I only drove like that once, when my wife fell asleep while on a wonderful mountain road, so had to take it easy, and hear the super annoying rattle constantly. Will give it a try to see how loud it is outside when I can open the windows, but at least I cannot hear it at all with either the stereo on, or the exhaust not in quiet mode. And since I almost always do both, I can live with it. Just hope the tick never shows up, or I'd be pissed .
The day you know what to listen for rivals the day you found out there is no Santa Claus. Sorry if that was a spoiler for anyone here...Once you know what to listen for it is quite audiable. However agreed that the clips are not the best source but the sounds come through though.
Just a thought because I include myself in this. Perhaps people don't go searching for "2K Engine Rattle" until they experience it out of the blue like I did and go "gee, I wonder if someone has a fix for this." Then they go "oh shit..." Like I have. It happened to me literally out of the blue. My wife asked to drive it and I said ok. So off we go and she immediately said "what the hell is that?" She heard it, I heard it and we started pushing on the interior parts to try to pinpoint it. I had been driving it for 2,500 miles (bought it with 5,600 miles on it) she had driven it twice before and loved it. We both would have noticed it. When I test drove it I was in high attention mode with no radio or ac/fan on. It was a used car, so I was listening for any shimmies, rattles shakes, etc. It was rock solid in all respects. The only rattle I experienced early on, was the tweeter on the A pillar but I pushed on it and it went away, I assume it will be back, but there is nothing I can push on to make THIS go away.... Really bummed. Sorry for the multiple posts, but just going through this thread and there is a lot of content to reply to. Even though it's old, it's apparently still all relevant. If the 2020 buyers are still getting it (not 100% sure on that) then I guess they haven't figured it out or cared enough to engineer it out.Even plugging the link into search gets me nothing. Anyways, not that I'm advocating the theory, but using "other forum members claim..." doesn't hold much weight. Several videos that are posted with the rattle have been met with "I don't hear anything wrong," in some wording or another. Some people are just outright oblivious. I've seen people not even notice their check engine light is on until pointed out. Until someone shows me proof of a car that is rattle free when cold AND at operating temp, I just can't believe that some are rattle free.
Really, what's easier to buy? Your average layman doesn't know the difference between their fart or a chair moving an inch, or this forum is full of the most unlucky SOB's out there to the point that even their replacement engines rattle? The only other alternative would be that the rattle isn't related to anything pertaining to a longblock.
That is not the BBQ, that is a sound made when you rev your engine and let off - debate is still up in the air exactly what causes it, but it is primarily noticed when your car is cold. The BBQ tick is intermittent and happens randomly, not every time you rev guaranteed like the noise in kiksbutt's video.That's the BBQ
THAT is the answer why you think the rattle just appeared all of a sudden . I haven't read of a single owner who claims his Coyote doesn't have the 2K rattle. So getting a new engine is not the answer at all... plus you wouldn't get it anyway . My guess is the previous owner of your car poured an additive like Ceratec, which in some cars quiets the rattle temporarily, as well as the tick. If you don't believe me, start a thread with a poll on original owners (to make sure nothing was poured into the oil without their knowledge) with more than 1K miles on their cars (to make sure they didn't miss it initially, like I did), who have the 2K rattle, and I bet it'd be close to 100% of people who do. Nobody seems to know what the hell is causing it, and there's no cure either, other than some cars responding to Ceratec. We have to either live with the rattle, or get rid of the car. Fortunately, I can live with it, but I'm sure as hell not happy about it.I had been driving it for 2,500 miles (bought it with 5,600 miles on it)
I'm a newb both to the forum and to Gen 6 Mustang ownership (had a 67 and 89). So I'm a long way from sticking a flag in the ground on most things. What I do know is that I wasn't on the original fill. It had what looked to be a sort of cheap oil filer on it, not the OEM Motorcraft. So at 5,600 miles I assume it was on a recent first oil change. The oil I drained looked quite normal, so I doubt it had Ceratec added. I did develop the tick after my oil change, but I've heard that with fresh oil changes it's a common occurrence and sometimes it goes away. I have not heard that Ceratec can cure/mitigate the rattle.THAT is the answer why you think the rattle just appeared all of a sudden . I haven't read of a single owner who claims his Coyote doesn't have the 2K rattle. So getting a new engine is not the answer at all... plus you wouldn't get it anyway . My guess is the previous owner of your car poured an additive like Ceratec, which in some cars quiets the rattle temporarily, as well as the tick. If you don't believe me, start a thread with a poll on original owners (to make sure nothing was poured into the oil without their knowledge) with more than 1K miles on their cars (to make sure they didn't miss it initially, like I did), who have the 2K rattle, and I bet it'd be close to 100% of people who do. Nobody seems to know what the hell is causing it, and there's no cure either, other than some cars responding to Ceratec. We have to either live with the rattle, or get rid of the car. Fortunately, I can live with it, but I'm sure as hell not happy about it.
Well for the last couple days I’ve been treating my car like it’s February in Michigan, when it’s actually August in Southern Indiana. But letting the car warm up before driving it seems to be helping the rattle. Probably going for a trans software update then will probably go with some Ceratec and see what happens. I’ll keep sucking up the research and make the most informed moves I can.Ceratec reportedly looks like Frappuccino initially, then it starts going away little by little, until at about 3K miles, when the oil looks normal, so once it gets darker, I guess. And yes, as I mentioned, the rattle doesn't go away in most cars... but in some, it does. Weird, I know. Having said that, to me, the 2K rattle sounds like the camshaft-driven high-pressure fuel pump to me, but could be wrong. In the age of fuel efficiency, it's baffling why Ford didn't use a freaking electric fuel pump instead. Once it cools off, I want to drive my car without stereo and quiet exhaust (and windows open when going slow), and see how that stupid rattle changes, how loud it is outside, and its rpm range too. It might be more annoying inside than out, but that's what I want to find out.
Not sure what it sounds like outside on the rattle. With the windows down I get too much exhaust factor. The last two times I drove it, I let it warm up really well and haven't felt / heard it except very slightly. The tick is still very much alive and well. I think Ceratec is the next move for me. I went with Castrol Edge EP in 0W20. Not that I live in an extremely cold climate, but I couldn't see quicker flow on cold start as anything but a good thing. I do think I'm going to go with 0W30 next oil change and probably stick with a bottle of Ceratec. If you get the flow on cold start with the 0 and the additional wear protection of the 30, I think that may be the way to go. I'm not tracking it, but there is a reason why they recommend 30 for track. High RPMs and higher engine temps. I drive the car pretty hard so I'm probably going to go that route. You said you were doing a change, so curious as to what you are going with.I hear you, brother. I'm going to do the oil change tomorrow, and see what happens (crossing fingers. Ha ha). Hey, is the rattle loud outside? Do you think other people can hear it over the engine in quiet mode when driving by leisurely? And how about sport mode?
As far as Ceratec, I'd be very hesitant to use it too. But if my car develops the tick, and it's more than super sporadic, it might be the least of 2 evils. Let us know what you decide.
You might be in for a real treat... I bought my 2019 new in January here in Atlanta. While certainly not New England cold, cold enough. I can't pin point exactly when the rattle started for the life of me, but once it did, man did it make a racket on a cold morning! My neighborhood is quiet, so no significant external noises there. I would drive with the driver's side window open in 1st, and man did it sound BAD!!!! I should have my wife video it as I drive by when it gets cold again. It's obvious enough (at least mine is) such that someone walking might easily think, "Wow, there's something wrong with that car..." as you drive by.Once it cools off, I want to drive my car without stereo and quiet exhaust (and windows open when going slow), and see how that stupid rattle changes, how loud it is outside, and its rpm range too. It might be more annoying inside than out, but that's what I want to find out.
That's exactly what I went with yesterday, at 1,128 miles. Had to idle the engine for about 10 minutes, while I put the car off the ramps in front, and put it on the rear, to install the Steeda braces. Engine super quiet, actually, but don't want to claim a partial victory yet. Ha ha. And even if that holds, don't consider myself out of the woods yet, since it can start after the second oil change. But at least so far it's a good sign, since some folks report the tick immediately after an oil change. Just hope the damn 2K rattle is not amplified. Ha ha.If you get the flow on cold start with the 0 and the additional wear protection of the 30, I think that may be the way to go.
Anything is possible, but it just doesn't make mechanical sense, because it happens right at the same rpm range. When it's the transmission, differential, shafts, etc., noises happen at certain SPEED range, not rpm range. That's why I'd say with 99% certainty it has to be the engine... but wish we knew what is causing it. Since it sounds behind the engine, I suspect the high-pressure fuel pump, since it's camshaft driven. Or maybe something else is just vibrating. But it's certainly NOT normal, even if all engines do it, and it's not detrimental to the engine. Without it, and the damn tick especially, our engines would be just about perfect .I know most everyone disagrees with me on this, but my bet STILL says the 2K rattle is somewhere in the driveline.