I DON'T have the tick but I have the 2K Rattle

3rdRGR

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Today I did not have time to warm up the engine. I had to pull out of the garage and go because I was on a surprise timeline to meet someone. I did not get on it, but I did put it in sport mode so I could hold the RPM range between 2 and 3K. The rattle was there for sure. The closer to 2K even, was the worst noise/vibration and got better if I was above or below. Once up to temp, it subsided significantly. Driving back after about 20 minutes, it was not noticeable. Guess it's what everyone else is saying, that it is the cold (even though "cold" is probably 75 degrees), block vs warm block and the pistons staying more consistent in size. We'll see if the Ceratec helps it at all, then going with 0 or 5W30 next oil change. Haven't decided on that yet. 5W certainly has more options available, but I've got time to do some more research before the time comes.





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GMONSTAH

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That's exactly what I went with yesterday, at 1,128 miles. Had to idle the engine for about 10 minutes, while I put the car off the ramps in front, and put it on the rear, to install the Steeda braces. Engine super quiet, actually, but don't want to claim a partial victory yet. Ha ha. And even if that holds, don't consider myself out of the woods yet, since it can start after the second oil change. But at least so far it's a good sign, since some folks report the tick immediately after an oil change. Just hope the damn 2K rattle is not amplified. Ha ha.


Anything is possible, but it just doesn't make mechanical sense, because it happens right at the same rpm range. When it's the transmission, differential, shafts, etc., noises happen at certain SPEED range, not rpm range. That's why I'd say with 99% certainty it has to be the engine... but wish we knew what is causing it. Since it sounds behind the engine, I suspect the high-pressure fuel pump, since it's camshaft driven. Or maybe something else is just vibrating. But it's certainly NOT normal, even if all engines do it, and it's not detrimental to the engine. Without it, and the damn tick especially, our engines would be just about perfect :).
Through the rabbit hole of internet research, I have no idea how I got there so don't ask :) , I came across some posts of Porsche owners with the same descriptive type of rattle. They attributed it to the dual disc type of clutch we have and say they hear it all the time on 911's... Take it how you will, but that's what I read on the internet!

I will wholeheartedly agree with you if the rattle and tick were gone, these engines would be utterly FANTASTIC!
 

Issues

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Through the rabbit hole of internet research, I have no idea how I got there so don't ask :) , I came across some posts of Porsche owners with the same descriptive type of rattle. They attributed it to the dual disc type of clutch we have and say they hear it all the time on 911's... Take it how you will, but that's what I read on the internet!

I will wholeheartedly agree with you if the rattle and tick were gone, these engines would be utterly FANTASTIC!
I believe there are 2 rattles on the Mt. The louder of the two is definitely drive line. In the background you can pick up a much quieter simulator rattle at the same rpm . I read post here saying that the rattle can't come From the transmission because it only happens in a certain rpm range. But clutch speed is clutch speed no mater what the gear.
 

ice445

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I believe there are 2 rattles on the Mt. The louder of the two is definitely drive line. In the background you can pick up a much quieter simulator rattle at the same rpm . I read post here saying that the rattle can't come From the transmission because it only happens in a certain rpm range. But clutch speed is clutch speed no mater what the gear.
True, It's easy to get the twin disc to chatter/rattle especially if you push it all the way in real fast when in reverse for example. Doesn't explain why 10R80 owners have the rattle too though.
 

GMONSTAH

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So, this 2K rattle is sometimes driving me nuts. Sometimes I'm happy to ignore it, radio up, etc, but sometimes, I just home in on it. IMO, it DOES take away from the overall ownership experience of the car and I am a little irate at Ford for basically saying "Well, live with it...". That being said, I love my car, and grudgingly ignore it, although it irritates me to HAVE to ignore it...

Anyway, that aside, something happened the other day that DEFINITELY changed the speed of the 2K rattle instantaneously! For whatever reason, I slipped the clutch just right in some manner (for which I haven't been able to replicate, nor do I want to burn up my clutch trying it over and over), and it suddenly went from its usually predictable rattle to a REALLY FAST one, for just a second or two... The RPM's didn't really spike either, it's not like I went from 2k-4k stupid fast, it was just a brief slip of some sort. It was definitely a direct result of what I was doing with my clutch. I'm kind of leaning into the dual mass clutch theory in light of this. Whatever I did, had a very direct and immediate impact on it.

Just throwing that out there for the mechanical minds above mine to digest...
 

GMONSTAH

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Side note: was doing a little research on converting from a dual mass flywheel to single, and it seems like a bad idea. Apparently dual clutch flywheels basically absorb a shit ton of vibrations from the engine and going to a single would basically bring all sorts of other sounds/vibrations into the picture. A case where the cure would be worse...
 

ice445

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Side note: was doing a little research on converting from a dual mass flywheel to single, and it seems like a bad idea. Apparently dual clutch flywheels basically absorb a shit ton of vibrations from the engine and going to a single would basically bring all sorts of other sounds/vibrations into the picture. A case where the cure would be worse...
You're thinking of a dual mass flywheel. Which has multiple plates separated by springs. A twin disc clutch just has two plates and an intermediate floating plate for more clamping force. You can use a dual mass flywheel with any clutch setup. Most OEM setups use one for multiple reasons. Vibration and being harder to stall are the main ones.

The 15-17 cars use a single disc setup, which apart from not lasting that long worked OK.
 

GMONSTAH

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You're thinking of a dual mass flywheel. Which has multiple plates separated by springs. A twin disc clutch just has two plates and an intermediate floating plate for more clamping force. You can use a dual mass flywheel with any clutch setup. Most OEM setups use one for multiple reasons. Vibration and being harder to stall are the main ones.

The 15-17 cars use a single disc setup, which apart from not lasting that long worked OK.
Ah, my bad, I'm exhausted...!
 

qwk93ta

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UGGG....I have the 2k rattle, I just bought an 18 PP1, m6, with 4k miles last Saturday. I didn't hear it on the test drive because the car was warming up while the dealer got my license and ins info. My car is certified so I have a warranty until 4-23 but sounds like I'll be told it's normal like Ford did with my old 15 premium, PP1, m6 that had the IRS vibration at 50 MPH. I sold that car after owning it about 10 months. This sucks!!!
 

geep81

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UGGG....I have the 2k rattle, I just bought an 18 PP1, m6, with 4k miles last Saturday. I didn't hear it on the test drive because the car was warming up while the dealer got my license and ins info. My car is certified so I have a warranty until 4-23 but sounds like I'll be told it's normal like Ford did with my old 15 premium, PP1, m6 that had the IRS vibration at 50 MPH. I sold that car after owning it about 10 months. This sucks!!!
Every gen 3 coyote has the rattle. Relax it's OK. (the people who claim to not have it are deaf or in denial)
 

kiksbutt

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Every gen 3 coyote has the rattle. Relax it's OK. (the people who claim to not have it are deaf or in denial)
This.
 

Elp_jc

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UGGG....I have the 2k rattle
That's probably the only undesirable V8 Coyote trait that is truly 'normal', and reportedly doesn't affect engine longevity at all, so relax :). I'd be a lot less satisfied if it was the dreaded tick.
 

GritzNGravy

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My 16 has the 2k rpm rattle and its not direct injected. My rattle goes away when the engine gets really warm. It has almost 30k on it and Ive noticed the rattle at 500 miles ish. It doesnt burn drop of oil, I did compression test at 13k miles and all was good, last 3 oil analysis have come back good and bore scoped most of the cylinders at 15k miles and didnt see anything wrong. I put a Whipple on and funny thing is even before the first boosted pull when cold the rattle got way louder.

 

GT Pony

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I'm still wondering if the 2K rattle is cam chain/tensioner noise - it sounds like that kind of noise. Wasn't it mentioned somewhere that after market chain tensioners can cure the 2K rattle?
 
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GT 550

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I think it was that someone (MMR?) stated that they would but no amount of online prompts elicited anything like a response.
 

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