I broke two records today...

[MultiMediaWill]

In some situations the clutch cannot be all out. Eg when going up on a hill with tight bumper to bumper traffic...You will have to learn how to balance the car with just the clutch and the gas with no brakes...

In fact you can practice that on your driveway or uphill with no traffic. Get the car to the balance point where it is not moving with no brakes but just the clutch and gas...rolling it back en forth till you master that technic. And you can do it without burning the clutch.

How would that not burn the clutch? If I am correct, any time the clutch is not either fully engaged or disengaged you are wearing down the clutch.

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[Lowrider]

How would that not burn the clutch? If I am correct, any time the clutch is not either fully engaged or disengaged you are wearing down the clutch.

It depends on how you get that balance point right...A little too much of the clutch in can cause the burning hence the smell. But it is a good technic to master.

For instance...If you ever have to back up or say parallel park in a tight spot. You will have to have the clutch not all the way out (balance point) otherwise the car will stall due to the RPMS being too low.

 

[Barrel]

So avoid launch control?

Repeated use of launch control will degrade the clutch over time. It's why it's a "track only" feature. Just like line lock will degrade tire performance.

 

[Lowrider]

Repeated use of launch control will degrade the clutch over time. It's why it's a "track only" feature. Just like line lock will degrade tire performance.

So does the Launch control on these cars work only with the clutch engaged?...I'm confused since mine has failed to work. I thought you could just put the car in neutral and press the gas to the medal for it to work. But it didn't happen. That is how the Subaru LC worked.

 

[Barrel]

So does the Launch control on these cars work only with the clutch engaged?...I'm confused since mine has failed to work. I thought you could just put the car in neutral and press the gas to the medal for it to work. But it didn't happen. That is how the Subaru LC worked.

Place the car in track mode. Enable LC from the track menu (this is a persistent setting, you'll only have to do it once). Clutch in - mat the gas - dump the clutch.

 

[yellowragtop]

You need further explanation

To the OP with the burned clutch:

Imagine one round circle-shaped flat metal plate spinning.

Now imagine one circle right next to it (the clutch disk/friction plate) and this disc is not spinning at all.

Now imagine a second metal circle shaped plate spinning on the other side of the clutch disk.

When you start releasing the clutch, both metal spinning plates move toward the clutch disk to create a sandwich. (Imagine an oreo cookie. The white filling in the middle is the clutch disk)

Anytime you press the clutch in, and let the clutch out, you are forcing the clutch disk to spin at the identical speed as the two spinning plates.

Anytime you press the clutch in, and let the clutch out, as the metal plates contact the clutch disk, you are wearing out the friction material located on both sides of the clutch disk.

The disk itself is connected to the input shaft of the transmission. The motion of the disk, dictates motion of your rear tires.

In the car wash, Normally you leave the car in neutral and rollers are supposed to push your car.

It sounds like you were in a different kind of car wash.

If you need to "creep" forward, let off the clutch for a few seconds to get the car rolling, then push the clutch all the way back in. Use a small amount of time when you feel the clutch grabbing.

Another option is roll slowly forward, let the clutch out completely, then if needed press the brake a little bit to slow you down, and only press the clutch all the way in right when the car acts like it will stall.

This is a HORRIBLE lessen to learn if you truly burned down the entire clutch disk. I have a strong feeling you might have worn down the clutch with other driving maneuvers from your regular driving habit.

When you first move from a stand still, you should be able to acheive this without ever touching the gas pedal. Just let the clutch off very slow, the rpms may drop down to 500 rpm...which is fine,...then punch the gas.

I am very sorry about this and AFTER you get a new clutch, you need to practice with someone to help you learn to reduce the "riding of clutch" behavior to a bare minimum. Good luck !

 

[73MachI]

I could smell it, but by that time the damage was done. I'm 22 years old and today was my first manual experience ever.

Oh man, that sucks dude. I'm sorry. :(

 

[MultiMediaWill]

Oh man, that sucks dude. I'm sorry. :(

It's all good. I learned a lesson in a very tough way. My parents have been very supportive which has helped a lot. I was very worried that they would be mad at me for screwing up my new ride on day 1. Now I'm just anxious awaiting the verdict about my car. Ford will take a look at it tomorrow.

 

[50hhh]

Just don't tell them about the car wash. Also no way that should have ruined the clutch.

 

[dogiebitt]

Okay thank you! So I'm assuming engaging the clutch halfway also with the brake pressed down is bad? I was doing this to avoid embarrassing stalls at red lights.

I had a 150 mile drive home after buying my car as well. And I had a total of maybe an hour in a manual car before that (4 years before that... and it was a 89 toyota truck with a 4 banger). The drive home was hard/embarrassing/nerve-racking, to say the least.
Two things that I've figured out since then:
1. "creep assist" (when you are in 1st gear and can just slowly let off the clutch with no gas, and it goes) seems to be disabled if you are touching the brakes. This means if you are on a slight incline, or at a red light with someone right on your ass, and you are holding the brakes, you will almost certainly stall by trying to release the clutch then move your foot from brake to gas. Clutch and gas needs to be simultaneous. At the same time, reving to 4k rpm at a light with the clutch pressed in, then releasing clutch will make you burn out, as well as ruin your clutch.
2. Use Sports+ mode. It seems to allow for smoother shifts at slightly higher RPMs. For example, in normal mode, going 1>2 you should be below 2k RPM when you press in the clutch to begin the shift, at which point the RPMs drop slightly as you shift into 2nd. In sports+, you can shift 1>2 at about 3k RPMs, so it drops to around 2k by the time you're in 2nd and it's MUCH smoother. At least from my experience.

I've had my car for a month and a half now (1200 miles) and it's starting to become second nature. Just keep at it and don't listen to the nay-sayers in this thread that want to crack jokes. They don't understand/remember the anxiety that comes with a manual. Especially with this kind of power.

 

[MultiMediaWill]

I had a 150 mile drive home after buying my car as well. And I had a total of maybe an hour in a manual car before that (4 years before that... and it was a 89 toyota truck with a 4 banger). The drive home was hard/embarrassing/nerve-racking, to say the least.
Two things that I've figured out since then:
1. "creep assist" (when you are in 1st gear and can just slowly let off the clutch with no gas, and it goes) seems to be disabled if you are touching the brakes. This means if you are on a slight incline, or at a red light with someone right on your ass, and you are holding the brakes, you will almost certainly stall by trying to release the clutch then move your foot from brake to gas. Clutch and gas needs to be simultaneous. At the same time, reving to 4k rpm at a light with the clutch pressed in, then releasing clutch will make you burn out, as well as ruin your clutch.
2. Use Sports+ mode. It seems to allow for smoother shifts at slightly higher RPMs. For example, in normal mode, going 1>2 you should be below 2k RPM when you press in the clutch to begin the shift, at which point the RPMs drop slightly as you shift into 2nd. In sports+, you can shift 1>2 at about 3k RPMs, so it drops to around 2k by the time you're in 2nd and it's MUCH smoother. At least from my experience.

I've had my car for a month and a half now (1200 miles) and it's starting to become second nature. Just keep at it and don't listen to the nay-sayers in this thread that want to crack jokes. They don't understand/remember the anxiety that comes with a manual. Especially with this kind of power.

What do you mean by this? What if I want to shift from 1>2 at 5k RPM for example?

 

[magellan]

This is interesting behavior I see over and over again. Don't man up, lie and count on a free repair even though you screwed up. And there's ton of threads about how difficult it is Ford Service to make do something about real warranty problem - it's because of behavior like that.

This.

 

[Wblv17]

3rd record, how fast to f up a paint job with auto car wash

 

[James Issac Neutron]

This is interesting behavior I see over and over again. Don't man up, lie and count on a free repair even though you screwed up. And there's ton of threads about how difficult it is Ford Service to make do something about real warranty problem - it's because of behavior like that.

I agree. Not taking responsibility for your actions is, unfortunately, a growing trend.

 

[bmatt]

What do you mean by this? What if I want to shift from 1>2 at 5k RPM for example?

Just shift! I'd just attribute that statement to being a new manual driver. If you want it to be smooth at that RPM you want to shift swiftly (with technique) and apply ample throttle. RPMs tend to drop faster at higher revs so it is a little trickier shifting at higher RPM. The sport and track mode improve throttle response which probably makes it easier.


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