How is there NOT a step by step video of a Whipple installation on YouTube???

[HKusp]

There are the pulleys in the correct orientation.

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[HKusp]

Barton Hybrid 3, steel braided clutch line, and Kinetik Crank Saver installed.

 

[DougS550]

Barton Hybrid 3, steel braided clutch line, and Kinetik Crank Saver installed.

Hey, what pulley installer did you use for installing the crank harmonic balancer. Thank you

 

[HKusp]

We didn't use an installer. We cleaned the key way on the balancer really well. Cleaned the crank and used the ol' very very gently work the pulley with light taps with a wood block and a dead blow hammer until we could get a couple of threads to grab with the stock bolt. Very very gently. Keep working the balancer until you can get a thread or two to grab. I know it's not the ideal, but we live in an imperfect world.

 

[illtal]

I actually have the MMR rear cooling mod. I haven't installed it yet. I doubt I really need it, running mostly on ethanol, but with the engine out, it's a no-brainer.

I don't think it works....

here's a some tech for you...

 

[DougS550]

I don't think it works....

here's a some tech for you...

Thank you for your help. Most appreciated.

 

[HKusp]

Except that it's a pressurized system. So there would have to be flow forced through, I would think. Pressure is going to create flow. Either way, it's on now...

 

[Angrey]

Take a look at 5:31 in the video. See how the enlarged water galley doesn't extend to the back (#8) intake side?

That, combined with the fact that the CHT sensor is on the passenger side at #4 (and not both) presents a possible disparity in what the PCM infers and thinks the temp is for all cylinders.

There's two primary resolutions to this PRIOR to mechanically altering the coolant flow system. First would be to tune around it. I.e. don't run the motor on the ragged edge, because the cylinder to cylinder temp differential may be enough to put you over on a particular cylinder (the usual culprit is the back of the driver's side). The second would be similar, to install a second sensor on the driver's side and incorporate the additional information into the calibration. (Ford employs dual sensors for covering each bank on number of inputs, not sure why they decided it wasn't necessary on the CHT).

I agree that there won't be any flow or exchange between the two unless there's a pressure differential (i.e. if #4 isn't seeing higher pressure than #8, there will be no flow, if they're equal pressure and flow, the water in the line between them will remain static).

The real correct solution is don't run the car to the point of nuke based upon information you're getting from the back of #4. Assume a little bit of safety factor and a variance in individual cylinder temp. This means you'll make less power.

But if you assume all the soldiers are the same height as the one in front of you before firing over his head, don't be shocked when a 6'9" soldier catches a round in the back of the skull.

 

[illtal]

There is the same amount of pressure on each side. Water can't compress. It will only go to the path of least resistance. Once they meet in the back of the head in that line the fluid will only equalize in temp inside that line. The water in the head cannot go both ways because you have the same pressure on each side, similar to the balancer in the front. The water will just travel along the same path.

 

[DougS550]

Take a look at 5:31 in the video. See how the enlarged water galley doesn't extend to the back (#8) intake side?

That, combined with the fact that the CHT sensor is on the passenger side at #4 (and not both) presents a possible disparity in what the PCM infers and thinks the temp is for all cylinders.

There's two primary resolutions to this PRIOR to mechanically altering the coolant flow system. First would be to tune around it. I.e. don't run the motor on the ragged edge, because the cylinder to cylinder temp differential may be enough to put you over on a particular cylinder (the usual culprit is the back of the driver's side). The second would be similar, to install a second sensor on the driver's side and incorporate the additional information into the calibration. (Ford employs dual sensors for covering each bank on number of inputs, not sure why they decided it wasn't necessary on the CHT).

I agree that there won't be any flow or exchange between the two unless there's a pressure differential (i.e. if #4 isn't seeing higher pressure than #8, there will be no flow, if they're equal pressure and flow, the water in the line between them will remain static).

The real correct solution is don't run the car to the point of nuke based upon information you're getting from the back of #4. Assume a little bit of safety factor and a variance in individual cylinder temp. This means you'll make less power.

But if you assume all the soldiers are the same height as the one in front of you before firing over his head, don't be shocked when a 6'9" soldier catches a round in the back of the skull.

So you have two good points.
1: If a Bear is chasing you and a group of people and everyone starts to run, the most important thing is, you don't have to be the fastest runner in the group, you just have to be faster than the slowest guy LOL.
2: If you have to go to war and your 6'9", your life expectancy will be greater if you fight from the rear with your "Squad". LOL

 

[illtal]

So you have two good points.
1: If a Bear is chasing you and a group of people and everyone starts to run, the most important thing is, you don't have to be the fastest runner in the group, you just have to be faster than the slowest guy LOL.
2: If you have to go to war and your 6'9", your life expectancy will be greater if you fight from the rear with your "Squad". LOL

LOL

 

[HKusp]

Here are some pics of the Arcane stage 2 fuel filter, check valve and the PTFE lines run under the driver side frame rail. I ran the fuel line to the engine compartment and attached the fitting, with the fuel pressure gauge, to the rail.

 

[HKusp]

Engine, k-member, tranny, and headers are back in.

 

[HKusp]

I finished plumbing the fuel line to the rails. I am going to need to get a razor knife in there to get that painters tape outta there. I also ran the vacuum line, installed the throttle body and torqued it down, and put the supercharger belt on. Hooked a bunch of electrical connections back up on the main harness. I have to source new graphite donut gaskets for the header collectors, mine a a little too banged up for me to feel comfortable re-using them.

 

[LikeMike]

This thread just convinced me that I am not buying this or at least not installing it myself, thanks LOL

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