How is there NOT a step by step video of a Whipple installation on YouTube???

[engineermike]

Which bolts?

I’m pretty sure ford says to replace the head bolts, cam tower bolts, phaser bolts, and maybe more due to the torque-to-yield design. I’m not sure about the oil pump bolts and front cover.

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[HKusp]

I’m pretty sure ford says to replace the head bolts, cam tower bolts, phaser bolts, and maybe more due to the torque-to-yield design. I’m not sure about the oil pump bolts and front cover.

ARP cam tower bolts, ARP head studs, New FRPP cam phasers and hardware, as well as new oil pump hardware. The guy who was helping me today is a very good Ford tech with over 20 years experience. I brought up the TTY issue about the cam phaser bolts and he said it's not an issue.

 

[HKusp]

So, it turns out that it was NOT the oil pump gears binding up. One of the oil pump bolts in the cam phaser kit from FRPP either was too long, or I used the wrong bolt for the oil pump. It might have been one for the chain guides, I'm not sure, but it was sticking through the front of the block, just enough to hit the first counter weight on the crank. It took a long time to figure out what was happening, but we got it worked out. It's all back together and the timing chains are on. I hope to have it ready to bolt back to the transmission and get it back onto the cradle next weekend.

 

[DougS550]

ARP cam tower bolts, ARP head studs, New FRPP cam phasers and hardware, as well as new oil pump hardware. The guy who was helping me today is a very good Ford tech with over 20 years experience. I brought up the TTY issue about the cam phaser bolts and he said it's not an issue.

 

[DougS550]

How did you guys do on your installs were Whiiples directions sufficient for the installation?. All help appreciated.

 

[HKusp]

How did you guys do on your installs were Whiiples directions sufficient for the installation?. All help appreciated.

Make sure you have the latest revision of the directions. Lay everything you are working on, out on a table so you can see what you are working with. If something doesn't seem right, email Whipples tech support. They are very good actually.

 

[DougS550]

Make sure you have the latest revision of the directions. Lay everything you are working on, out on a table so you can see what you are working with. If something doesn't seem right, email Whipples tech support. They are very good actually.

I will, Thanks.

 

[HKusp]

I will, Thanks.

Come here and ask questions or DM me.

 

[DougS550]

Come here and ask questions or DM me.

Thank you.

 

[Brian-17S550]

I tried removing the spacers provided on the 1050's but that ended up being almost as short as it was too long with them on. I started a support ticket with Whipple to get some answers on the spacing. I will update when it happens. In the meantime I got the front accessory pulleys worked out ( I believe), so all that is mounted. Part of the issue on the pulleys is the spacers. They have 4 pulleys of 5 that use step spacers. 2 use one sized .390 inches and 2 use one sized .317 inches. They look very very similar, and only 1 of the 4 came in a bag that actually had the size marked on it.

I think I am going to move forward with plumbing as much of the heat exchanger plumbing and mounting as I can without it being in the way of doing the rest of the installation once I get the injectors/fuel rails situation worked out. Tomorrow, I'll take and post some pictures so that it's here for the next guy.

I was swapping over to ID1050s and I am having this same issue with my Whipple. The rails won’t bolt back up. I looked for your update on how you got the 1050s to work but I didn’t see it. Could you let me know what you ended up doing to get the rails bolted back up and with what spacers?

 

[DougS550]

I was swapping over to ID1050s and I am having this same issue with my Whipple. The rails won’t bolt back up. I looked for your update on how you got the 1050s to work but I didn’t see it. Could you let me know what you ended up doing to get the rails bolted back up and with what spacers?

I was just told you have to use the "thinner" O Ring seals, and not the larger, thicker ones. Keep us posted

 

[Brian-17S550]

I was just told you have to use the "thinner" O Ring seals, and not the larger, thicker ones. Keep us posted

Thank you, yes, I did swap over to the thinner O-rings. I know there are two bolting locations on the side of the whipple, one upper and one lower. I did go ahead and try to bolt them up to the top location last night. It does look like it is correct. When I first aligned it, I knew it wasn’t going fit on the lower location but the top one made it look like the Injector wouldn’t seat correctly. Now that I’ve installed it I think it is correct.
I did send a support ticket to whipple just to try and verify that this is correct. I also wasn’t sure if I should remove the metal spacer (pictured) that Whipple supplied before installing these injectors. Once I get confirmation, I will update this post.

 

[engineermike]

I tried running the metal spacers with stock predator injectors and it created interference. You could hear injector ticking across the parking lot. I had to remove them and all is well since then. Fwiw there are short, medium, and long injectors. Trinity were medium and predator are long. Both fit in the Whipple by using the upper or lower bolt holes. I don’t know what the deal is with the washer spacers, Whipple told me I needed them so I threw away $80 on them and now they’re in the attic.

 

[DougS550]

Thank you, yes, I did swap over to the thinner O-rings. I know there are two bolting locations on the side of the whipple, one upper and one lower. I did go ahead and try to bolt them up to the top location last night. It does look like it is correct. When I first aligned it, I knew it wasn’t going fit on the lower location but the top one made it look like the Injector wouldn’t seat correctly. Now that I’ve installed it I think it is correct.
I did send a support ticket to whipple just to try and verify that this is correct. I also wasn’t sure if I should remove the metal spacer (pictured) that Whipple supplied before installing these injectors. Once I get confirmation, I will update this post.

This is what Whipple told me
We use medium, standard length Bosch injectors (48mm) and the lower mounting hole for the rails,but the supercharger manifold has two bolt patterns to accommodate the taller 60mm injectors. ID injectors are based on short style Bosch injector bodies, so they use adapters to change the installed height. The ID injectors can be installed using IDs silver, top and bottom spacers and the thin O-rings installed on to the bottom spacer. This makes them about 60mm in length which uses the top hole to mount the rails on the supercharger manifold. Since the length is not exactly correct, the holes on our fuel rails may need to be drilled larger to line up with the threads on the supercharger. Another way is to only use the bottom adapters on the ID injectors and the bottom hole to mount the rails. There will be some up and down play in the injectors, but as long as the O-rings stay in the injector bores on the supercharger and fuel rail, you are good to go. The fuel pressure holds them into the supercharger. Always check for leaks before starting the engine.

 

[HKusp]

I got the timing cover, water pump, knock sensors, and the cam covers (valve covers) on. missing a few bolts, so I had to run by the local Ford dealer and order new ones today.

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