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WildHorse

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robvas

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Lotta people say this, but never gives any context.
So.
What makes it junk ?
I've heard nothing but good from the oil guys on the newer mad from natural gas stuff (like the platinum synthetic that I've been using), but the complaint with Pennzoil in the past was sludge from "high amounts of parafffin wax"
 

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paraffin wax
Yeah, I heard the same. Thing is, ALL oils use paraffin wax. I use nothing but platinum series Pennzoil and under the cam covers still look brand new. Guess they're stuck in the 80's mindset when it comes to Pennzoil.
 

Angrey

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Yeah, it's such a complicated issue. If you have a fleet of vehicles with hundreds of thousands of miles, you want economy, but not at the expense of engine life. A race car gets torn down and rebuilt virtually every pass. They also don't see oil temps you'd observe in say, Baja or endurance racing. They try to make a pass without saturating the motor with heat. While the heat observed in a drag motor in such a short time is extreme, it doesn't see hours upon hours of abuse. The oil may only see a few minutes of operation before it's swapped fresh. Things like contamination, detergents, shearing become much less of a concern.

But the article is spot on in that everyone keeps trying to achieve the same lubrication with thinner materials, which aids in economy and power output.
 

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GregO

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A race car gets torn down and rebuilt virtually every pass.
They try to make a pass without saturating the motor with heat.
ProStock can go a long time if the motor doesn’t get hurt. The ProStock teams chill the coolant system way down before staging.
Regardless we’re on the same page regarding sewing machine oil in modern engines.
 
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Angrey

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ProStock can go a long time if the motor doesn’t get hurt. The ProStock teams chill the coolant system way down before staging.
Regardless we’re on the same page regarding sewing machine oil in modern engines.
Agreed. The team engineers would obviously look at lubrication needs very differently for a drag team vs getting a car prepped for 24 hours of Lemans.
 

dreamvillian_9

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A dual rated API SP and ACEA A3/B4 or C3 ftw. This ensures an HTHS of at least 3.5 and much better deposit control, lower NOACK, and sludge control just to name a few while still getting the latest in timing chain wear and valve train wear from API SP. (And LSPI if you have an ecoboost).
 

Cobra99

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I think most oils that meet specs are fine. I look at what you can get for the price. A little more you can get a true synthetic and not a 'tricked' term that is being used for most. IF you are not buying a Group 4 PAO its not a real synthetic and you are just a victim of marketing. Dino oil is fine but I roll my eyes when someone says they are running synthetic oil but it just extreme heated dyno oil.
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