JetGray_Mach1
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I understand, I daily drive mine so I stick to synthetic blend.
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FreePenguin
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you forgot the most important thing.
the stickers you can get from the brand to stick to your tool cabinets.
Cyberbill
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Grandpa Bill runs Liqui Moly with a bottle of Ceretec and my gt runs very quiet with great gas mileage.. You can get Liqui Moly at Advance Auto for same price of Pennsoil here in Austin Texas. Grandpa Bill
Pistol_91
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Royal purple is overrated, overpriced garbage. The oil itself I can't see being bad but the price and "name" that people put behind it claiming to be the best is just plain dumb. There's dozens of oil studies out there on the Internet from different sources... Royal purple is never in the top 5. I think Amazon basics oil is probably better.
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Angrey
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I've written these sermons in other threads, so here goes again. It's not ego to say this should be a sticky somewhere.
First, Royal Purple ain't the Royal Purple it was when it developed a respectable reputation. It was sold. "Allegedly" it's not the same company, both in ownership, product philosophy and content, etc.
Having said that...........some discussion points.
First, never discuss motor oil, religion or politics online. In that order. You're going to get 1000 opinions and people have their preferences no different than they have their religions.
Second, the reason is this is a HUGELY complicated issue with multiple inputs and outputs that convolute the issue and make a one size fits all determination difficult or impossible.
OEM manufacturers have DIFFERENT concerns than end users. They have to contend with the likes of EPA, emissions, fuel economy, etc.
Just because an oil meets certification criteria doesn't necessarily mean that it's "better" or the best product. In many cases, those certifications are based on criteria that you don't care about.
As others have pointed out, there are additives and components in motor lubricants that are wonderful and great for your motor, but bad for your catalytic converters. There are oil blends and weights that are BETTER for your motor in the long run, but not as good for eking out every ounce of fuel efficiency.
To throw another complex issue in at the front, the "spec" or properties of an oil when it sits in the bottle fresh and new are NOT the same as even a short time after operation in the engine. It's difficult to know whether the OE engineers intended the motor to run on the spec in the bottle or the reality of it's characteristics for the majority of a duty cycle. The vast majority of 5W-50 oils will immediately cut to the equivalent of a 40 weight oil within the first couple hours of operation. They'll remain in that lower state of viscosity and gradually decline as the oil gets sheared, "cut" or diluted with lightweight contaminants, etc. If we were to graph this, it would look like a big drop initially, a stabilization and then a slow flat angled death of the viscosity.
Here's the reality, unless you're a race team that's beating the car to death and tearing down the motor frequently or you're a taxi cab company that's driving the motor to 300k miles, nearly everyone who has these discussions won't EVER be able to notice or experience a difference with virtually any budget grade oil or premium oil if you're following even the most rudimentary replacement intervals. I.e. change your oil and swap the filter. Unless you're going to take out the bearings and wear components and weigh them, if you're changing your oil and filter like you should, you'll never be able to tell a difference between costco brand oil and top of the line premium grade stuff.
In the end, it gets divided into two categories.........with and without cats. If you have cats and you care about them, stick with a certified OE recommended oil. If you don't have cats, and you just want the best lubricant protection for you engine, pick a blend with high HTHS, a decent amount of ZDDP and Moly and a relatively low noack rating.
Esther blend oils resist shearing and viscosity degradation better than typical PAO based lubricants. Race only blends like Redline and Motul are simply better for harsher conditions. Driven (which is an MPAO based oil) has additives that resist windage, etc.
For most people, anything from Mobil to Castrol to Amsoil or Motorcraft, Valvoline, Rotella...........whatevs.......if it's the proper weight and you change the oil and the filter appropriately, all the arguments and opinions in the world won't make a bit of difference.
We could have discussions for DAYS and WEEKS and YEARS about this and for MOST people it won't matter one way or the other.
First, Royal Purple ain't the Royal Purple it was when it developed a respectable reputation. It was sold. "Allegedly" it's not the same company, both in ownership, product philosophy and content, etc.
Having said that...........some discussion points.
First, never discuss motor oil, religion or politics online. In that order. You're going to get 1000 opinions and people have their preferences no different than they have their religions.
Second, the reason is this is a HUGELY complicated issue with multiple inputs and outputs that convolute the issue and make a one size fits all determination difficult or impossible.
OEM manufacturers have DIFFERENT concerns than end users. They have to contend with the likes of EPA, emissions, fuel economy, etc.
Just because an oil meets certification criteria doesn't necessarily mean that it's "better" or the best product. In many cases, those certifications are based on criteria that you don't care about.
As others have pointed out, there are additives and components in motor lubricants that are wonderful and great for your motor, but bad for your catalytic converters. There are oil blends and weights that are BETTER for your motor in the long run, but not as good for eking out every ounce of fuel efficiency.
To throw another complex issue in at the front, the "spec" or properties of an oil when it sits in the bottle fresh and new are NOT the same as even a short time after operation in the engine. It's difficult to know whether the OE engineers intended the motor to run on the spec in the bottle or the reality of it's characteristics for the majority of a duty cycle. The vast majority of 5W-50 oils will immediately cut to the equivalent of a 40 weight oil within the first couple hours of operation. They'll remain in that lower state of viscosity and gradually decline as the oil gets sheared, "cut" or diluted with lightweight contaminants, etc. If we were to graph this, it would look like a big drop initially, a stabilization and then a slow flat angled death of the viscosity.
Here's the reality, unless you're a race team that's beating the car to death and tearing down the motor frequently or you're a taxi cab company that's driving the motor to 300k miles, nearly everyone who has these discussions won't EVER be able to notice or experience a difference with virtually any budget grade oil or premium oil if you're following even the most rudimentary replacement intervals. I.e. change your oil and swap the filter. Unless you're going to take out the bearings and wear components and weigh them, if you're changing your oil and filter like you should, you'll never be able to tell a difference between costco brand oil and top of the line premium grade stuff.
In the end, it gets divided into two categories.........with and without cats. If you have cats and you care about them, stick with a certified OE recommended oil. If you don't have cats, and you just want the best lubricant protection for you engine, pick a blend with high HTHS, a decent amount of ZDDP and Moly and a relatively low noack rating.
Esther blend oils resist shearing and viscosity degradation better than typical PAO based lubricants. Race only blends like Redline and Motul are simply better for harsher conditions. Driven (which is an MPAO based oil) has additives that resist windage, etc.
For most people, anything from Mobil to Castrol to Amsoil or Motorcraft, Valvoline, Rotella...........whatevs.......if it's the proper weight and you change the oil and the filter appropriately, all the arguments and opinions in the world won't make a bit of difference.
We could have discussions for DAYS and WEEKS and YEARS about this and for MOST people it won't matter one way or the other.
MAGS1
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Man, ain’t that the truth.
Snellemin
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I had used Royal Purple in my Nissan trucks and Ford Expeditions for 15+ years, before I switched over to cheaper synthetics like Pennzoil. I use to go 10K miles between oil changes with K&N oil filters. The RP oil was in my engine, tranny and diff. In the Expedition I got better highway mpg's with the RP oil vs the ford oil. At 180K miles, I was burning 1 quart of oil or so between RP oil changes. But 23 bucks for 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum made me swap over brands. Now I swap oil at 7.5k miles running on E85.
Cobra99
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I use a true synthetic(Group 4 PAO) and it ain't RP.
Motorcraft 5W-50 sheers down quickly.
For the money you can get better oil, but for most conventional that meets spec works with regular change intervals. You think the suggested brand from the manufacturer doesn't get something in return(Cheap price, kickback etc).
I think the only three are Amsoil(Some), Euro Mobil1 and Redline are a few.
Breakdown of what many are calling Synthetic. Most are just dino oils
The issue centered on whether the definition of "synthetic" extended to Group III base oils which undergo considerable upgrading at the molecular level during severe hydroprocessing under high heat and pressure in a closed environment. Mobil's position was that PAOs, which are built from simple hydrocarbons into the desired molecualr configuration through repeated (and costly) polymerization steps, are the only true synthetic base oils derived from underground hydrocarbon sources. Castrol, and a number of industry competitors, feel that cracking and re-constituting to a purer, consistent molecular weight paraffin* content through isomerization also legitimately qualify as a form of synthesis. The arbitrator agreed with Castrol's position after testimony was taken from academic and industry expert witnesses. But, don't feel sorry for ExxonMobil, they were, and still are, one of the world's leading purveyors of Group III base stocks as well as the technology to, er, synthesize them. They've cried all the way to the bank before and since the arbitrator's gavel stopped echoing.
Motorcraft 5W-50 sheers down quickly.
For the money you can get better oil, but for most conventional that meets spec works with regular change intervals. You think the suggested brand from the manufacturer doesn't get something in return(Cheap price, kickback etc).
I think the only three are Amsoil(Some), Euro Mobil1 and Redline are a few.
Breakdown of what many are calling Synthetic. Most are just dino oils
The issue centered on whether the definition of "synthetic" extended to Group III base oils which undergo considerable upgrading at the molecular level during severe hydroprocessing under high heat and pressure in a closed environment. Mobil's position was that PAOs, which are built from simple hydrocarbons into the desired molecualr configuration through repeated (and costly) polymerization steps, are the only true synthetic base oils derived from underground hydrocarbon sources. Castrol, and a number of industry competitors, feel that cracking and re-constituting to a purer, consistent molecular weight paraffin* content through isomerization also legitimately qualify as a form of synthesis. The arbitrator agreed with Castrol's position after testimony was taken from academic and industry expert witnesses. But, don't feel sorry for ExxonMobil, they were, and still are, one of the world's leading purveyors of Group III base stocks as well as the technology to, er, synthesize them. They've cried all the way to the bank before and since the arbitrator's gavel stopped echoing.
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20ducks
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Last question: 0W20 or 5W30 or ??? (I don't road race or track.)
Angrey
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Probably spec out pretty similarly, main difference would be the high and low range. Two biggest risks to lubrication are when the oil is cold/thick at start up (so are you in some sorta extreme cold weather conditions where you need deep cold protection at start up) and on the top end when the oil is so hot it thins to water (are you ever getting the oil temps up in the 250F range?).
Again, probably won't make much of a difference either way. I'd go with 5w-30 if it were me, just to have a wider blend.
vaeevictiss
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if its like most products theres probably like 2 or 3 companies that make the 1000 different oils lol. That being said, ive always used Mobil 1 on just about everything. Even my lawnmower and two stroke tools get it.
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