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It didn’t come from the factory like that. I’ve had the car almost 3 years and it just recently started doing that maybe a week ago or so.

The beginning of this video shows how to remove the cover.

Found the problem, was simply a loose torx bolt. Removed plastic trim covering the side and tightened it up.

Anyone ever had their seat come loose on them? Causes the seat to shift if I brake hard.I checked and initially I thought something was wrong with the rail, but it seems like there’s a loose bolt somewhere? Idk it’s hard to see without taking the whole seat out, there isn’t a ton of room to work...

A dual rated API SP and ACEA A3/B4 or C3 ftw. This ensures an HTHS of at least 3.5 and much better deposit control, lower NOACK, and sludge control just to name a few while still getting the latest in timing chain wear and valve train wear from API SP. (And LSPI if you have an ecoboost).

That doesn’t really make sense. 10w-30 is a 30 weight at operating temps. The 10 is the winter rating which is only relevant when starting your car when it’s very cold out. 10w-30 is thinner than 5w-40 at operating temps.

Walked in the dealership to buy a few things with my remaining Ford pass points, got a few oil filters and this is what the parts guy came out with. He said the FL-500S has been discontinued and replaced with these? Read another post on here where a guy had a similar encounter and people said...

Right? Dude acts like I said run no air filter. I hardly doubt you or your lungs are going to be able to tell the difference between Motorcraft, purolator, or a K&N cabin air filter. They’re all going to do what they’re intended to do. That’s what I meant by it’s “not that big of a deal”

The stock one. Or whatever you can find on sale at AutoZone. It’s a cabin air filter, not that big of a deal.

Mines actually been pretty solid as well. At one point I thought I had a consumption issue, but I was being over analytical. Over a 4-5k mile OCI interval I may have to add 1/2 a quart. I have tried multiple different brands and it’s usually always the same end results.

At the end of the day man, it’s just oil. Follow the manufacturer’s specs and change it when it’s supposed to be changed or at a reasonable interval. I do every 5k with 5w-30 but plenty of others follow the OLM for 7.5-10k miles. There’s plenty of Gen 1 and 2 Coyotes out there with well over...

I have actually used 87 before. I ran it for about a month or two sometime last year so probably 10 or so fill ups. Never noticed a difference daily driving my car. Car was also stock at the time. But I switched back to premium and that’s all I run now.

The spread here in Texas is usually about 70¢. Regular is down to $2.55 a gallon down here. Most of the time I go to QT (which is top tier branded fuel) as they only charge 50¢ more for premium. Download the shell fuel rewards app. I’ve gotten up to 70¢ of per gallon just by stacking rewards...

I had two dodge chargers before the mustang and that’s what I would go back to if I needed 4 doors. Either a scatpack or hellcat. I’d also heavily consider the CTS-V. Depends on budget mostly. I’d love an Audi RS3 but I’d only lease a new one as the maintenance on those German cars is nuts.

This seems to be the new up and coming trend with Lund. A lot of folks over on the S550 FB group have been mentioning Lund’s poor customer service recently. I’m not tuned at all or knocking Lund, just mentioning what I’ve observed.

That sounds like a lack of maintenance, not a deficiency stemming from using a synthetic blend.

I don’t think you or your car will notice a difference. I usually run a full synthetic but with my ford pass points I picked up the blend since it was half the price at the dealership. With how cheap full synthetics are these days there’s really no reason not to run one. But either is fine...

I gotcha, can’t go wrong with either one. Over on BITOG there’s people who have taken Ford engines to 300-400k on the blend only. Obviously plenty of others who have used full syn with the same end result. I think the MC blend is overpriced for what it is, but it’s still good oil. At the current...

Just out of curiosity, have you ever heard of a car having an engine failure as a result of using a synthetic blend instead of full syn? Did cars only make it to 36k or 60k back in the day before “full” synthetics were easily available and accessible and everyone was running around on conventional?

That’s why I do my own maintenance. I’ll buy the parts from them for free using points and do the maintenance for free myself lol Engine won’t know a difference. My car is daily driven, if I was racing or tracking the car I’d definitely use a full synthetic. But for my daily routine a blend is...