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Hood Corrosion

Evolvd

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I just drilled holes in it last year to add a Roush scoop! Bad timing! I called Roush and they sent me a new template in case I need to install it on a new hood. Great service from them. My corrosion is right on the edge and I'm sure I could sand it and touch it up, as long as it doesn't spread.
Not a good idea. This corrosion is due to poor sealant in the aluminum joints. Sanding one spot may temporarily fix it but it’ll just show up somewhere else. Not to mention that it’s much better to blend the whole hood panel and quarters so you don’t notice the patchwork.
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MAGS1

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I just drilled holes in it last year to add a Roush scoop! Bad timing! I called Roush and they sent me a new template in case I need to install it on a new hood. Great service from them. My corrosion is right on the edge and I'm sure I could sand it and touch it up, as long as it doesn't spread.
Brian beat me to it, but sanding the area isn’t going to be a permanent fix unfortunately. If Ford won’t replace it, you could always try to find an OEM hood from a junkyard or from a place like Midway Mustangs that has wrecked cars they part out. Bound to find an OEM hood in good condition so you can reuse your Roush scoop.
 

OldbutNew

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IDK if you're familiar with the TSB. I'll attach some information about that.

It's my understanding that, there's a transfer at some level at the factory, with the stamping process involving steel and aluminum pieces.

The problem with patching, you don't know if the corrosion will pop-up somewhere else.

The TSB recommends panel replacement. Before considering any repairs, I'd chat up the dealer.

The factory warranty covers first five years of ownership. The TSB covers 2000-2020 Model Years.

A link to the most recent paint GSB I've found.

https://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic...s-vehicles-paint-and-bumper-concern-analysis/

From the 2022 Warranty Guide:

"3) Your vehicle’s body sheet metal panels are covered for an extended Corrosion Coverage Period, which lasts for five years, regardless of miles driven. The extended warranty coverage only applies if a body sheet metal panel becomes perforated due to corrosion during normal use due to a manufacturing defect in factory-supplied materials or factory workmanship. If aluminum body panels have corrosion or rust damage, and the damage is not the result of abnormal usage, vehicle accident, customer actions and/or extreme environmental conditions, the corrosion or rust damage repairs are covered for 5 years, unlimited miles. For damage caused by airborne material (environmental fallout) where there is no factory-related defect involved and therefore no warranty − our policy is to provide free repair of paint damage due to the airborne material for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first."
This is FANTASTIC information!
I just picked up a Unicorn 2018 Royal Crimson PP1, manual, CF interior, Magneride, Active Exhaust with under 5700 miles when I picked it up. The hood has bubbling corrosion over the passenger side headlight and 4 places along the rear edge. I'll be having a chat with my local Ford dealer.
 

Skye

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I'll be having a chat with my local Ford dealer.
Congrats on the new, super low-mileage, ride. Best Wishes in discussions with the dealer.

So the TSB explains how to repair, while the warranty allows for the repair.

2018, with the warranty on corrosion ending in 2023. But...many dealers understand the only reason the hoods are corroding is because of the manufacturing process, not anything the owner is doing. At least one member has had their hood replaced a few years after-the-fact. Some dealers seem to be flexible. Others, not.

This season, I encountered a Lamborghini at a local meet. See the corrosion in their hood. Ford and Mustangs are not the only ones with this problem. I read several threads of Lambo owners discussing areas of rust or premature fails. There is one advantage to trading up to a Lamborghini: their corrosion warranty is 12 years. :giggle:

20250705_083020.jpg
 
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PVAMT

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Brian beat me to it, but sanding the area isn’t going to be a permanent fix unfortunately. If Ford won’t replace it, you could always try to find an OEM hood from a junkyard or from a place like Midway Mustangs that has wrecked cars they part out. Bound to find an OEM hood in good condition so you can reuse your Roush scoop.
Unfortunately Ford didn’t do the proper metal prep before painting the hoods. I work in aviation and before painting aluminum it has to be cleaned and treated with alodine. Then it gets a coat of primer, paint and clearcoat. I have this on my 2016. I have a friend who has a 07 Gt-500 and another with a 10’ GTCS both have hood corrosion. On aluminum the corrosion has to be completely removed or it will be back. I have been going through wether to strip my hood completely clean and alodine it hoping there’s no corrosion in between the upper and lower layers or just get a fiberglass replacement hood. I really like the factory hood but don’t want to have to strip it down and repaint it every couple of years. I’m leaning toward the Cervini Gt-500 hood. At least it won’t corrode being fiberglass. I think the factory hood may find a place in the garage as decour.
Pete
 

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SHOdaddy68

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Unfortunately Ford didn’t do the proper metal prep before painting the hoods. I work in aviation and before painting aluminum it has to be cleaned and treated with alodine. Then it gets a coat of primer, paint and clearcoat. I have this on my 2016. I have a friend who has a 07 Gt-500 and another with a 10’ GTCS both have hood corrosion. On aluminum the corrosion has to be completely removed or it will be back. I have been going through wether to strip my hood completely clean and alodine it hoping there’s no corrosion in between the upper and lower layers or just get a fiberglass replacement hood. I really like the factory hood but don’t want to have to strip it down and repaint it every couple of years. I’m leaning toward the Cervini Gt-500 hood. At least it won’t corrode being fiberglass. I think the factory hood may find a place in the garage as decour.
Pete
The Cervini hood is beautiful but HEAVY. It does require a lot of prep if you buy the un-painted part like I did. I'm glad I did it that way because I was able to address all the little flaws and rough edges and the end result is a smooth glass-like finish on a black hood.
 

PVAMT

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The Cervini hood is beautiful but HEAVY. It does require a lot of prep if you buy the un-painted part like I did. I'm glad I did it that way because I was able to address all the little flaws and rough edges and the end result is a smooth glass-like finish on a black hood.
Great to know, thanks for the info.
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