High IATs with Whipple

[stanger1]

I have a 2017 RS3, VMP 730 kit, tuned with their Dual fan, triple pass HX and I had air bubbles and had no water flow on a drive when it was about 80 degrees, and my IAT2 went up to 162-164 quickly.
I could tell without even looking at the N Gauge. It turns into a turd. Way down on power. i should have data logged, but I just wanted to get it home.
Got all the air out and it runs around 30 degrees above IAT1
Love the sound of those 2 fan's running when you first hit the start button to activated the accessories and the pump runs also.
The fans do move a decent amount of air. Don't know what the actual CFM is, but they are 10" I believe, or are they 12"?? Don't remember.

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[crcpdx]

I started out by drilling holes in the areas that were solid and then used a dremel to enlarge and smooth out the holes so they look just like the areas that were open.

Did you do this after or before your tune? Curious if it has any effect.

 

[brucelinc]

Did you do this after or before your tune? Curious if it has any effect.

Lol...I did it when the car was bone stock...about 2 days after I got it. I have no idea if it is beneficial, harmful or neither. It just seemed like the thing to do at the time.

My car came with the active grill shutters. When the supercharger was installed, those had to be removed. I have noticed both lower coolant temps and lower cylinder head temps since removing those.

 

[Fatevilmonkey]

https://youtu.be/qUh6FLtf2Cc

Killer chiller for you PD blower guys

 

[brucelinc]

I don't really have a problem with iat2 at 30-40 over iat1 when running and moving. If I lived in a southern climate, I might look at it differently. I can't tell any difference in street performance whether my iat2 is 90 or 130.

I don't drag race when outside temps are over 85. Even after sitting and heatsoaking, temps drop quickly once running and moving. As others have said, open throttle and rpm lower temps.

 

[Martin5.0sc]

I got the MFP phenolic spacer from VMP. It is not cheap, but it's worth it.

As for hood clearance, I did lower the engine with some drop mounts to buy the extra clearance. Since I have the older gen 2 whipple, I also had to remove a pulley bracket bolt, but that hasn't caused any issues.

Reflective tape might help a little, but you really want to get rid of the metal to metal contact between the intake and heads. Aluminum is a great conductor of heat, and adding the phenolic barrier prevents that transfer.

What do spacers come with, longer bolts? O-ring gaskets?

 

[Ruiner46]

What do spacers come with, longer bolts? O-ring gaskets?

Yes, comes with longer bolts and o-ring style gaskets.

 

[Roh92cp]

Yup these spacer work, it’s amazing. I’ve done before and after comparison and it’s a 25-30 degree drop in IAT2 temps.

 

[moffetts]

Adding foil insulation to the airbox helps a lot, especially if you close up the giant hole in the box where it butts up against the fender. Whipple sells a replacement snorkel, too, which really should be in the kit to begin with. Short of adding the spacers or using a killer chiller type setup, keeping your IATs in check for the sake of your IAT2s is the best way to go.

 

[Cyotee]

Yes, leave the aux power on, your pump will run which helps the blower from getting heat soaked. Hood open as soon as you get back to the pit, a fan blower will help a lot to cool it down quick (you will need a small generator).

Do you have the oversized heat exchanger? It is well worth it.

Something not working (IC pump)? Fluid level correct? Also use 2 to 3 bottles of Red Line Water Wetter.

Do not put ice on top of the blower (by doing this it could cause premature wear on the rotors and seals). You want to cool the fluid Not the housing.

Wondering where you heard about not icing the top of the Whipple??

 

[crcpdx]

With normal Whipples it makes sense. You don't want to go from hot to cold too fast because it could distort the screws. Mine is inverted so not really sure, but why chance it?

 

[Cyotee]

With normal Whipples it makes sense. You don't want to go from hot to cold too fast because it could distort the screws. Mine is inverted so not really sure, but why chance it?

Thanks for the info!

 

[Angrey]

Wondering where you heard about not icing the top of the Whipple??

Just about any tuner or shop will tell you this. You don't want the housing to contract and shrink while the internals are hot and expanded because it's just going to cause wear/grind between the rotating rotors and the housing.

unlike the pistons inside the cylinders of a motor (which the setup is designed to allow for cold dimension and warm up to expanded dimension) if the blower didn't take into account a thermal disparity between the internals and the housing, it's going to scrape/grind/wear.

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