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Headers question

Wolfys11

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You are wrong about not needing a tune and it does effect the flow of air I have a cold air intake, MBRP race cat back exhaust and now Stainless Power headers. The ECU still think that the o2 sensors are in the same place and the amount of air moving through the intake is greater than it was. That is why I have two codes now (PO2001 and PO2004) both are intake related codes.
For 93 headers catless and intake and catback, tune is not needed and will not throw any codes (except catless codes)

The ecu is able to have wide enough parameters to adjust for it

The air flow in intake is same and the same for exhaust, o2 position is not important enough for this application

You have some issue to cause those codes, my speculation is you have one of those intakes that increase diameter of the intake, which will then require a tune for the reason like you said, more flow at the maf sensor. However they come with reducers to be tune free applications

Tune will just allow you to extract a few more ponies, but it wont be needed
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Journey GT 435

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Mod's add HP and a tune just makes them all play together nice. It's like a computer you can add a printer and other hardware but you the drivers to make it work, if you have drivers and no printer you still can't print.
 

jcm3

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I've got stainless power catted headers, H pipe and the factory active exhaust mufflers and I'm very happy with it. Had just the H pipe for a long time and wanted more. Cold starts are absolutely brutal if you don't start it in quiet. If you do, it's not bad at all and won't piss off any neighbors. In normal mode once its warmed up, it sounds really good and isn't ear splitting unless you want it to be.
Similar to my combo but with an x-pipe.

Cold starts are obnoxious, but only for about 3-5 seconds. It quiets down pretty quickly.

Colder starts after work quiet down faster.

Like you said, you can always program to start in quiet mode if it's an issue with neighbors in the morning.

Sounds amazing.

Edit: I have a PBD 91 and E85 tune and after installing the headers I asked them if it needs to be tweaked. They looked at the data logs and said it's good to go, for whatever that's worth.
 

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Wolfys11

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Mod's add HP and a tune just makes them all play together nice. It's like a computer you can add a printer and other hardware but you the drivers to make it work, if you have drivers and no printer you still can't print.
…. You have a bad understanding of how a car works

Mods change airflow. Intake or exhaust side. Mods will increase flow, reduce restrictions, and possibly increase scavenging.

A tune doesnt make anything play nice. A stock ecu has a range for parameters. If your airflow gets increased enough to go outside the parameters, you need a tune. If not, then you dont.

If you want to extract more hp, you will gain some. With specific mods, you can do things like remove cat protection protocol, raise redline rpm, change cam angles, fuel trims, etc

The main thing in this “intake and full exhaust” application is going to be that the ecu is fine to handle the extra flow and adjust accordingly.

Then you can tune to fine tune for 91 or 93 gas. That means you will tighten your paremeters which removes safety margins to increase power margins. This will remove the ability to run 87 or 89, but you will make some more hp. A tune is not like a driver update for new hardware, a tune is more like a overclock on top of changing your processor and graphics card in your computer. The parts do increase performance, but there is still some power left on the table cleaning up a stock oem tune. The oem tune does not make the max hp. A stock car will make a little more hp with just a tune no parts added. In gen 3 coyote, its not alot of power, its not worth doing, but it will make more power

Older cars had bigger margins
 

Wolfys11

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How much power do we need, the ability to go 165 in a 35. All I have is a Mach 1 with a Procharger HO, Borla Switchfire, and a tune my mechanic installed. Will go faster than a GT with a $5,000.⁰⁰ exhaust which only wins in a noise contest. Loud, rasp, popping, won't do anything but make the public believe all us Mustang owners are just punks who are obnoxious and starve for attention. Careful, you may just get that starvation quenched by a Traffic Cop.
 

Journey GT 435

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You just made my point.
 

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Blue Eagle

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You just made my point.
You should've heard the 68 Caprice low rider that pulled up to get gas. Talk about drone. Blub blub blub blub blub. Was barely idling while driving to the pump. You could tell the thing had not a smidgen of power, and pure drone. not very loud, just monotonous.
 

Pistol_91

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You are wrong!
So pumping 93 or E85 in the tank and adding timing to the tune doesn't add horsepower? Completely stock. No? It doesn't? You sure? You really sure you know what you're talking about here? Stop being a troll or go read something to improve your knowledge.

No offense but your analogy is retarded.
 

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FORD OEM tune optimizes fuel efficiency , emissions & for the average mundane driver. AFTERMARKET tunes generally tend to optimize horsepower. Generally with just a tune and nothing else, and depending on how aggressive it is, you'll gain 20-40 hp.
 
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Wolfys11

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FORD OEM tune optimizes fuel efficiency , emissions & for the average mundane driver. AFTERMARKET tunes generally tend to optimize horsepower. Generally with just a tune and nothing else, and depending on how aggressive it is, you'll gain 20-40 hp.
Thats not true of the coyote
Coyote is really a super good flowing setup oem

Full intake exhaust catless 3” with tune will get 30whp

Even e85 doesnt do crazy power gains without boost on coyote
 

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