GT500 Audio Upgrade - Speakers/Amp; Deletion of Center Speaker

[Tyler2386]

Audio folks:

I decided to upgrade the b&o audio system. I went to the local audio shop today I was quoted on the following:

- Apline R rear deck speakers (coaxial), X series components (lower door and tweeter)
- Infiniti 2in. mids 
- JL 10 sub W-1 installed in existing trunk enclosure, after modifying the enclosure to eliminate excess resonance
- JL 5 channel amplifier (XD700)
- JL the “fix” 86 box to remove factory tone controls

$2,600 total (including install)

Let me know your thoughts on this package, including both quality and price. I am looking to obtain a much higher quality sound, but I am not an audiophile (just a guy that appreciates a quality system), so it does not need to be competition ready.  For example, I had a Burmeister system in my prior Mercedes, and I thought it was phenomenal. That is what I’m trying to replicate.

Separately, for those who have eliminated the center channel speaker, do you notice any loss of functionality in hands-free calling / voice control? I am planning to do this also unless it impacts the foregoing materially. I could also have it put on a switch, but I prefer to avoid.

I am also planning to have them install a remote sub dial under the USB port (under the center display). Is that piece easy to access for install? I don’t want to risk it being damaged by the installer.

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[marklboris]

Hey Tyler, I will comment on some of the things you are asking about. All the equipment you listed above I have used in various cars and trucks and yes it is all good. Unlike many here, I feel the system that is in the car is a decent system. Sure it can be improved, any system can be, but I made a few tweaks and I am happy with mine.

First thing I did, and I do with every vehicle I own, I completely sound deadened the car with Dynamat AND Dynaliner. Doors, rear quarter panels, complete trunk including the lid, roof, floor and firewall. The improvement it make in the audio system is amazing then I go from there.

The bass was pathetic so I replaced the B&O woofer with a JL Audio 12" Stealthbox woofer that fits in the same location. I added a JL Audio 500 watt mono amp and remote volume control for the sub. At first I actually put that control where you want to, below the USB port but then I moved it to the left side of the steering wheel by the trunk release button. I did this because I wanted a more convenient place to put the front camera power button. In order to mount anything below the USB port, you need to remove quite a bit to get to it. Upper center console, dash trim and radio surround. The remote volume control is in a small plastic box and there is not enough room back there to mount it so you need to remove the box/case and just mount the raw volume control/circuit board.

I always disconnect the center speaker in any vehicle. It will not effect any functions of hands-free calling or voice control. Even if it did, I would still not use it. The center speaker completely destroys the imaging of the system. It is the same 2" mid as the door speakers. After sound deadening the entire car, adding a very good sub, disconnecting the center speaker and tweaking the tone controls, I am happy with the way it sounds. Sure it can sound better but it would take several thousand to do so and I don't drive the car for that long of a time.

 

[Tyler2386]

Hey Tyler, I will comment on some of the things you are asking about. All the equipment you listed above I have used in various cars and trucks and yes it is all good. Unlike many here, I feel the system that is in the car is a decent system. Sure it can be improved, any system can be, but I made a few tweaks and I am happy with mine.

First thing I did, and I do with every vehicle I own, I completely sound deadened the car with Dynamat AND Dynaliner. Doors, rear quarter panels, complete trunk including the lid, roof, floor and firewall. The improvement it make in the audio system is amazing then I go from there.

The bass was pathetic so I replaced the B&O woofer with a JL Audio 12" Stealthbox woofer that fits in the same location. I added a JL Audio 500 watt mono amp and remote volume control for the sub. At first I actually put that control where you want to, below the USB port but then I moved it to the left side of the steering wheel by the trunk release button. I did this because I wanted a more convenient place to put the front camera power button. In order to mount anything below the USB port, you need to remove quite a bit to get to it. Upper center console, dash trim and radio surround. The remote volume control is in a small plastic box and there is not enough room back there to mount it so you need to remove the box/case and just mount the raw volume control/circuit board.

I always disconnect the center speaker in any vehicle. It will not effect any functions of hands-free calling or voice control. Even if it did, I would still not use it. The center speaker completely destroys the imaging of the system. It is the same 2" mid as the door speakers. After sound deadening the entire car, adding a very good sub, disconnecting the center speaker and tweaking the tone controls, I am happy with the way it sounds. Sure it can sound better but it would take several thousand to do so and I don't drive the car for that long of a time.

This is very helpful. Thank you for the thoughtful response.

 

[StangTime]

Audio folks:

I decided to upgrade the b&o audio system. I went to the local audio shop today I was quoted on the following:

- Apline R rear deck speakers (coaxial), X series components (lower door and tweeter)
- Infiniti 2in. mids 
- JL 10 sub W-1 installed in existing trunk enclosure, after modifying the enclosure to eliminate excess resonance
- JL 5 channel amplifier (XD700)
- JL the “fix” 86 box to remove factory tone controls

$2,600 total (including install)

Let me know your thoughts on this package, including both quality and price. I am looking to obtain a much higher quality sound, but I am not an audiophile (just a guy that appreciates a quality system), so it does not need to be competition ready.  For example, I had a Burmeister system in my prior Mercedes, and I thought it was phenomenal. That is what I’m trying to replicate.

Separately, for those who have eliminated the center channel speaker, do you notice any loss of functionality in hands-free calling / voice control? I am planning to do this also unless it impacts the foregoing materially. I could also have it put on a switch, but I prefer to avoid.

I am also planning to have them install a remote sub dial under the USB port (under the center display). Is that piece easy to access for install? I don’t want to risk it being damaged by the installer.

I would pass on the JL FIX-86 and use a DSP. The JL Twk-88. You can remove all factory EQ and loudness contours and all the other shit that Ford did to destroy the sound by using a free program called Forscan and a USB or Bluetooth ODBII module with a MS/HS can-buss switch. It's very easy to do and only costs the price of the ODBII interface which you can use for other tweaks. Lots of info on the forums about it. Just search. Your money is better off used on the Twk-88 to configure your inputs and outputs, do time alignment, independent EQ for each speaker, and subwoofer control, all in one box.

Question: Are you going to run passive crossovers on the front doors? Because I don't see how a 5 channel amp can power your rear coaxials, front mid-bass, & front tweeters plus a sub.

My suggestion: Skip the rear deck speakers and use those amplifier channels to run a full active 3-way system in the front doors. You will need a 6 channel amp for this. Plus a mono amp for your sub. You will have much more control over each speaker and I guarantee it will sound better than a passive 5 channel system with useless rear deck speakers. Here is a really well done system my @mikes2017gt with full active 3-ways in the doors: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-system-2-0.147905/

 

[protraxduner]

@mikes2017gt setup.....WOW....not sure i have the patience and time to do that anymore. I am going to stick with my add on sub and call it a day.....these new fancy electronics stuff makes my head hurt

 

[kstand]

Hey Tyler, I will comment on some of the things you are asking about. All the equipment you listed above I have used in various cars and trucks and yes it is all good. Unlike many here, I feel the system that is in the car is a decent system. Sure it can be improved, any system can be, but I made a few tweaks and I am happy with mine.

First thing I did, and I do with every vehicle I own, I completely sound deadened the car with Dynamat AND Dynaliner. Doors, rear quarter panels, complete trunk including the lid, roof, floor and firewall. The improvement it make in the audio system is amazing then I go from there.

The bass was pathetic so I replaced the B&O woofer with a JL Audio 12" Stealthbox woofer that fits in the same location. I added a JL Audio 500 watt mono amp and remote volume control for the sub. At first I actually put that control where you want to, below the USB port but then I moved it to the left side of the steering wheel by the trunk release button. I did this because I wanted a more convenient place to put the front camera power button. In order to mount anything below the USB port, you need to remove quite a bit to get to it. Upper center console, dash trim and radio surround. The remote volume control is in a small plastic box and there is not enough room back there to mount it so you need to remove the box/case and just mount the raw volume control/circuit board.

I always disconnect the center speaker in any vehicle. It will not effect any functions of hands-free calling or voice control. Even if it did, I would still not use it. The center speaker completely destroys the imaging of the system. It is the same 2" mid as the door speakers. After sound deadening the entire car, adding a very good sub, disconnecting the center speaker and tweaking the tone controls, I am happy with the way it sounds. Sure it can sound better but it would take several thousand to do so and I don't drive the car for that long of a time.

Which front camera are you running?

 

[marklboris]

Which front camera are you running?

#1,112

 

[Tyler2386]

I would pass on the JL FIX-86 and use a DSP. The JL Twk-88. You can remove all factory EQ and loudness contours and all the other shit that Ford did to destroy the sound by using a free program called Forscan and a USB or Bluetooth ODBII module with a MS/HS can-buss switch. It's very easy to do and only costs the price of the ODBII interface which you can use for other tweaks. Lots of info on the forums about it. Just search. Your money is better off used on the Twk-88 to configure your inputs and outputs, do time alignment, independent EQ for each speaker, and subwoofer control, all in one box.

Question: Are you going to run passive crossovers on the front doors? Because I don't see how a 5 channel amp can power your rear coaxials, front mid-bass, & front tweeters plus a sub.

My suggestion: Skip the rear deck speakers and use those amplifier channels to run a full active 3-way system in the front doors. You will need a 6 channel amp for this. Plus a mono amp for your sub. You will have much more control over each speaker and I guarantee it will sound better than a passive 5 channel system with useless rear deck speakers. Here is a really well done system my @mikes2017gt with full active 3-ways in the doors: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-system-2-0.147905/

Thanks for the info. This seems pretty complicated (for the untrained ear).

 

[tommy303]

Question about replacing the sub and amp: if I ONLY want to replace the sub and have a mono amp put in, do I need to get a DSP? From reading the above information, it doesn't look as if I would have to. I thought I've read that other owner have upgraded the sub and amp without doing anything extra. I was hoping to just put in a JL/Kenwood/Alpine mono amp with sub replacement to make the car sound a little better.

 

[marklboris]

Question about replacing the sub and amp: if I ONLY want to replace the sub and have a mono amp put in, do I need to get a DSP? From reading the above information, it doesn't look as if I would have to. I thought I've read that other owner have upgraded the sub and amp without doing anything extra. I was hoping to just put in a JL/Kenwood/Alpine mono amp with sub replacement to make the car sound a little better.

Correct, that is all you need to do. No other equipment is necessary.

 

[Cgouzoulis]

Hey Tyler, I will comment on some of the things you are asking about. All the equipment you listed above I have used in various cars and trucks and yes it is all good. Unlike many here, I feel the system that is in the car is a decent system. Sure it can be improved, any system can be, but I made a few tweaks and I am happy with mine.

First thing I did, and I do with every vehicle I own, I completely sound deadened the car with Dynamat AND Dynaliner. Doors, rear quarter panels, complete trunk including the lid, roof, floor and firewall. The improvement it make in the audio system is amazing then I go from there.

The bass was pathetic so I replaced the B&O woofer with a JL Audio 12" Stealthbox woofer that fits in the same location. I added a JL Audio 500 watt mono amp and remote volume control for the sub. At first I actually put that control where you want to, below the USB port but then I moved it to the left side of the steering wheel by the trunk release button. I did this because I wanted a more convenient place to put the front camera power button. In order to mount anything below the USB port, you need to remove quite a bit to get to it. Upper center console, dash trim and radio surround. The remote volume control is in a small plastic box and there is not enough room back there to mount it so you need to remove the box/case and just mount the raw volume control/circuit board.

I always disconnect the center speaker in any vehicle. It will not effect any functions of hands-free calling or voice control. Even if it did, I would still not use it. The center speaker completely destroys the imaging of the system. It is the same 2" mid as the door speakers. After sound deadening the entire car, adding a very good sub, disconnecting the center speaker and tweaking the tone controls, I am happy with the way it sounds. Sure it can sound better but it would take several thousand to do so and I don't drive the car for that long of a time.

Hey mark,
Can you show how you wired this up?

 

[marklboris]

Hey mark,
Can you show how you wired this up?

Chris, exactly what wiring are you referring to? Installing the sub and amp was fairly straight forward. Was there some specific part or the entire install?

 

[Cgouzoulis]

Chris, exactly what wiring are you referring to? Installing the sub and amp was fairly straight forward. Was there some specific part or the entire install?

Where you tapped Amp into and best power route. Any info on sub and Amp wiring you can possibly give me really. Thanks mark

 

[CoachCan]

Hey Tyler, I will comment on some of the things you are asking about. All the equipment you listed above I have used in various cars and trucks and yes it is all good. Unlike many here, I feel the system that is in the car is a decent system. Sure it can be improved, any system can be, but I made a few tweaks and I am happy with mine.

First thing I did, and I do with every vehicle I own, I completely sound deadened the car with Dynamat AND Dynaliner. Doors, rear quarter panels, complete trunk including the lid, roof, floor and firewall. The improvement it make in the audio system is amazing then I go from there.

The bass was pathetic so I replaced the B&O woofer with a JL Audio 12" Stealthbox woofer that fits in the same location. I added a JL Audio 500 watt mono amp and remote volume control for the sub. At first I actually put that control where you want to, below the USB port but then I moved it to the left side of the steering wheel by the trunk release button. I did this because I wanted a more convenient place to put the front camera power button. In order to mount anything below the USB port, you need to remove quite a bit to get to it. Upper center console, dash trim and radio surround. The remote volume control is in a small plastic box and there is not enough room back there to mount it so you need to remove the box/case and just mount the raw volume control/circuit board.

I always disconnect the center speaker in any vehicle. It will not effect any functions of hands-free calling or voice control. Even if it did, I would still not use it. The center speaker completely destroys the imaging of the system. It is the same 2" mid as the door speakers. After sound deadening the entire car, adding a very good sub, disconnecting the center speaker and tweaking the tone controls, I am happy with the way it sounds. Sure it can sound better but it would take several thousand to do so and I don't drive the car for that long of a time.

‘Are you impressed with the sub upgrade? I’ve been thinking about switching it out with the same one you have

 

[marklboris]

Where you tapped Amp into and best power route. Any info on sub and Amp wiring you can possibly give me really. Thanks mark

Hey Chris, somewhere on this forum I explained how I installed this sub and amp and I know others have as well but that was a couple of years ago and I have no idea where that thread is so I will lightly explain it here.

I ran an 8 gauge power wire from the 12v battery to the amp in the trunk area. Removed the right front wheel and rear part of the fender cover to gain access to the boot that goes into the passenger compartment at the firewall. Ran this wire along under the kick panel and behind the right side quarter panel to the trunk. I believe I grabbed the ground power wire from an existing bolt in the trunk area.

I picked up the audio signal from the existing wires going into the OEM sub. There are 4 wires as it is a dual voice coil speaker. There is a green and black wire to one side, yellow and purple to the other. I could have used just one side but I combined the green and yellow (both are +) and black and purple (both are -) and ran them to the input on the JL amp which accepts both low and high level inputs.

I ran the remove volume control wiring on the left side of the car (behind left rear quarter panel, under drivers side kick plate) as I mounted the control next to the trunk release button on the dash to the left side of the steering wheel.

Let me know if you need or want more wiring info.

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