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GT350R track alignment

Voodooo

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If you take the two front strut bolts out (to the knuckle) and grind off the knurling, you will have room to adjust the camber before tightening them down. You can get to the Ford recommended settings without camber plates this way.
That's called Chicagoing a bolt. It'll take more then just removing the knurls. I've done this already and got -2.5 degrees. I turned them down in my lathe. The draw back is the tire to strut clearance.
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Voodooo

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From what I can see there a little smaller in diameter, so you can get a little more adjustment out of them.
The Auto X class I'm in, I can't run camber plates, so this is a alternative

These will not get or allow 1.7-2.5 camber. The ones I made by turning down the oem bolt allowed me -2.5 degrees. But you'll come close to the tire to strut clearance depending on your tire and wheel sizes.
 

Bingo13

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I had the shop at MSR Houston attempt a track alignment. They couldn't get any more negative camber. So, camber plates will be on order.

The Cup Sport 2s took a beating this past weekend, with the outer half showing some significant wear. I hope to get at least another weekend out of them with the camber set correctly.
At MSR Houston I run the following setup on the alignment with 305/315 Cup 2s on aftermarket wheels in R spec dimensions. I have run a square 305 and 315 setup also, came back to 305/315 based on my driving style.

I have a ton of suspension mods too long to list so your mileage will vary (cc plates are installed of course). These are base specs before the car was corner weighted so the actual numbers are slightly different. I tried -2.0 on the camber, but the car just behaves better with camber at 1.85~1.9 and caster at 6.93~7.0 at MSR Houston, MSR Cresson, and TWS.

Front L R
Camber -1.9* -1.9*
Caster 7.0* 7.0*
Toe -.05* -.05*
Total Toe -.05* in

Rear
Camber -1.3* -1.3*
Toe -0.13* -0.13*
Total Toe -0.26*in
 
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Voodooo

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At MSR Houston I run the following setup on the alignment with 305/315 Cup 2s on aftermarket wheels in R spec dimensions. I have run a square 305 and 315 setup also, came back to 305/315 based on my driving style.

I have a ton of suspension mods too long to list so your mileage will vary (cc plates are installed of course). These are base specs before the car was corner weighted so the actual numbers are slightly different. I tried -2.0 on the camber, but the car just behaves better with camber at 1.85~1.9 and caster at 6.93~7.0 at MSR Houston, MSR Cresson, and TWS.

Front L R
Camber -1.9* -1.9*
Caster 7.0* 7.0*
Toe -.05* -.05*
Total Toe -.05*

Rear
Camber -1.3* -1.3*
Toe .13* .13*
Total Toe .26*
That's a lot of toe in at the rear just over 1/4"?
What suspension mods do you have?
Ive replaced every single rubber bushing with a bearing, vorshlag camber plates, R springs and forgelines with pilot sport cup 2 305/30's
I just ordered some Eibach sway bars and DSC magneride controller. Can't want to see how that goes.
front:
-2 camber
0 toe

Rear:
-1.7 camber
.060 total toe in

At 28psi
 
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Spacebird

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At MSR Houston I run the following setup on the alignment...
Awesome post! Thanks for sharing all those details. I plan on some more HPDEs at MSR Houston and TWS (and Cresson if I can swing it), so I'll start with your specs and work from there.

I'm interested in hearing about your suspension mods. I'd love to get together in Houston if you're up for it.

Semi-related: My Cup 2s after 1500 miles including ~6 HPDE sessions (I did 9 total over the course of the weekend):




It hit 80F on Saturday and the tires got STICKY :D
 
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Bingo13

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That's a lot of toe in at the rear just over 1/4"?
What suspension mods do you have?
Ive replaced every single rubber bushing with a bearing, vorshlag camber plates, R springs and forgelines with pilot sport cup 2 305/30's
I just ordered some Eibach sway bars and DSC magneride controller. Can't want to see how that goes.
front:
-2 camber
0 toe

Rear:
-1.7 camber
.060 total toe in

At 28psi
Hi Scott,
I corrected the rear toe in to -0.26 total, forgot to at the (-) sign. I started at -0.30 in on the rear toe and backed off a little as I increased the rear camber to -1.3. For my driving style and the tracks I attend, these are settings that work extremely well for me. As I said, based on driving style, car setup and mods, your mileage will vary.

As for the mods -

Front suspension:
Maximum Motorsports CC plates (nothing against Vorshlag, just did not see the need for the extra dollars since I am in HPDE and not racing the car)
FTBR adjustable sway bar end links
GT350R front springs

Rear suspension:
FTBR subframe bushing kit
FTBR adjustable sway bar end links
FTBR adjustable vertical links
FTBR adjustable toe links
FTBR Upper Control Arm assemblies
FTBR Lower Control arm Spherical Bearing assembly
FTBR Knuckle Spherical Bearing assembly
Steeda IRS Subframe alignment kit (modded)
GT350R springs
GT350R swaybar/bushing

Chassis:
Steeda Front 2-pt G-Trac Brace
Steeda IRS Rear Subframe Support Braces (cherry on top)
Steeda UltraLight Jacking Rails

Brakes:
KNS Ti front brake pad shims
17-4 PH Stainless front caliper studs
Stock Pads for most events (tried GLOC R16/12 combo, based on my braking style the stock pads worked just as well and are a easier on the ears, :D , that said I love the GLOC/Carbotech pads on my other Cobra)
Pagid RS29 F/R - ran these at TWS this past weekend, wow, just need to earn more money to afford them the rest of the year.
Castrol SRF - my fluid of choice for HPDE.
Spiegler SS Lines - F/R
Cooltech Brake Deflector Kit

Engine:
JLT V3 oil catch cans (both)
Livernois V2 Track Tune

Exhaust:
Borla

Interior:
SRP pedals
MGW shifter
Steeda clutch spring
Schroth Quickfit Pro Harnesses

Wheels/Tires
Project 6GR - R Spec with Pilot Sport Cup 2 305/30/19, 315/30/19 F/R
Stock Track Pack Wheels - RE71R - 305/30/19 F/R (rain/standing water)
Forgeline GA1R - On order, hoping for a March track debut.

Tires Sitting in the Garage - Tested and need to use them up before buying more Cup 2s, lol.
Hankook R-S3 v2 305/30/19 f/r
ContiForceContact - 305/30/19 /325/30/19 f/r (really good in the rain, cold tolerance not as good as the RE71R)
Nitto NT-01 - 305/30/19 /325/30/19 f/r
P Zero Trofeo - 305/30/19 f/r (325/30/19 coming)

Still to try -
ARP 100-7732, 100-7733 Studs with the new Forgeline wheels and wheel spacers for a true square setup.

I am still working on a few other items like swaybar bushings, debating on the FRPP differential bushing kit, Watson 4-point roll bar, rear seat delete and dialing in the alignment settings once the new wheels arrive.
 

Voodooo

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Hi Scott,
I corrected the rear toe in to -0.26 total, forgot to at the (-) sign. I started at -0.30 in on the rear toe and backed off a little as I increased the rear camber to -1.3. For my driving style and the tracks I attend, these are settings that work extremely well for me. As I said, based on driving style, car setup and mods, your mileage will vary.

As for the mods -

Front suspension:
Maximum Motorsports CC plates (nothing against Vorshlag, just did not see the need for the extra dollars since I am in HPDE and not racing the car)
FTBR adjustable sway bar end links
GT350R front springs

Rear suspension:
FTBR subframe bushing kit
FTBR adjustable sway bar end links
FTBR adjustable vertical links
FTBR adjustable toe links
FTBR Upper Control Arm assemblies
FTBR Lower Control arm Spherical Bearing assembly
FTBR Knuckle Spherical Bearing assembly
Steeda IRS Subframe alignment kit (modded)
GT350R springs
GT350R swaybar/bushing

Chassis:
Steeda Front 2-pt G-Trac Brace
Steeda IRS Rear Subframe Support Braces (cherry on top)
Steeda UltraLight Jacking Rails

Brakes:
KNS Ti front brake pad shims
17-4 PH Stainless front caliper studs
Stock Pads for most events (tried GLOC R16/12 combo, based on my braking style the stock pads worked just as well and are a easier on the ears, :D , that said I love the GLOC/Carbotech pads on my other Cobra)
Pagid RS29 F/R - ran these at TWS this past weekend, wow, just need to earn more money to afford them the rest of the year.
Castrol SRF - my fluid of choice for HPDE.
Spiegler SS Lines - F/R
Cooltech Brake Deflector Kit

Engine:
JLT V3 oil catch cans (both)
Livernois V2 Track Tune

Exhaust:
Borla

Interior:
SRP pedals
MGW shifter
Steeda clutch spring
Schroth Quickfit Pro Harnesses

Wheels/Tires
Project 6GR - R Spec with Pilot Sport Cup 2 305/30/19, 315/30/19 F/R
Stock Track Pack Wheels - RE71R - 305/30/19 F/R (rain/standing water)
Forgeline GA1R - On order, hoping for a March track debut.

Tires Sitting in the Garage - Tested and need to use them up before buying more Cup 2s, lol.
Hankook R-S3 v2 305/30/19 f/r
ContiForceContact - 305/30/19 /325/30/19 f/r (really good in the rain, cold tolerance not as good as the RE71R)
Nitto NT-01 - 305/30/19 /325/30/19 f/r
P Zero Trofeo - 305/30/19 f/r (325/30/19 coming)

Still to try -
ARP 100-7732, 100-7733 Studs with the new Forgeline wheels and wheel spacers for a true square setup.

I am still working on a few other items like swaybar bushings, debating on the FRPP differential bushing kit, Watson 4-point roll bar, rear seat delete and dialing in the alignment settings once the new wheels arrive.
We have much of the same mods just different brands. FTBR offeres awesome parts. James is a great guy!
I'm still surprised that you run negative .260-.300 that's 1/4" to almost 5/16" total toe. I'm not questioning your choice, just never heard of anyone using that much of toe in. Have you ever ran 315 or 325 square?
I run the following and have considered the 315 square from my current 305 square set up.

Front:
GT350R springs
Vorshlag camber plates
Cortex lower control arm bearings
Cortex adjustable sway bar end links
Eibach adjustable 35mm sway bar

Rear:
GT350R springs
Cortex lower control are bearings
Cortex adjustable sway bar end links
Eibach adjustable 25mm sway bar
Ford performance IRS aluminum cradle bushings
Ford performance differential aluminum bushings
Ford performance toe bearings
Self modified oem camber links with toe bearing and bronze offset bushing
Self made vertical links using spherical rod ends
BMR toe links

Forgeline GA1R open lug 11x19
Michelin pilot sport cup2 305/30
Ozmo titanium lug nuts
GT350R calipers for looks
Mgw shifter
Steeda clutch spring
SRP pedals
Garage line pedal spacer
DSS carbon driveshaft (still waiting!!)
Jms jack pads
Ford performance dual oil catch cans
ARH long tubes
ARH off road x pipe
Borla, ARH and stock mufflers
Lund 100 octane race gas tune
GT350R rear seat delete
I'm making delrin sway bar bushings soon as nobody offeres them front and rear.

My current alignment settings are shown above.
Have you measured tire temps at all?
On the Spiegler brake hoses, how do you like them?
Can you tell me more about the Pagid pads?
 

Bingo13

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We have much of the same mods just different brands. FTBR offers awesome parts. James is a great guy!
I'm still surprised that you run negative .260-.300 that's 1/4" to almost 5/16" total toe. I'm not questioning your choice, just never heard of anyone using that much of toe in. Have you ever ran 315 or 325 square?
I run the following and have considered the 315 square from my current 305 square set up.


My current alignment settings are shown above.
Have you measured tire temps at all?
On the Spiegler brake hoses, how do you like them?
Can you tell me more about the Pagid pads?
I have been a big FTBR fan for a long time. Bruce knows his stuff, and his parts transformed my '00R and '03 SVT Cobras, plus made a huge difference on my son's Boss 302.

As for the toe settings, Ford actually recommends -0.30 in on track days for both the GT350 and GT350R, but less camber. I noticed better tire wear with a little additional camber and took some toe out. The rear end is planted now, not that it was bad before, but with all the updates and the alignment dialed in, it just squats and goes coming off the corners now. I do not even think or worry about passing offline and going into a corner now at speed.

I started measuring tire temps this past weekend. I only had to make a couple of half pound adjustments and the temps were even across the board. I will see how it goes once I am back at a short track with a lot of turns next month.

I really like the Spiegler SS lines, very high quality construction and easy to install with the banjo design allowing full rotation. I use them on my Yamaha R1 and decided to try them instead of Techna-Fit or Goodridge on this car and glad I did.

As for the Pagid RSL-29 pads, I have always heard good things about Pagid from the Porsche and BMW owners and even a couple of Boss 302 track rats who use the RSL-1 and RST-2 setups. I steered away from them before due to cost as I liked the Ferodo and Raybestos pads on previous cars before settling on Carbotech due to rotor life and overall cost, plus I am not racing so I have steered clear of the track day only pads. I drive my cars to and from the events.

Compared to our stock pads, initial bite is slightly more aggressive as was progressive stopping power as I increased pedal pressure. That improved initial bite and very linear modulation (especially release) was noticeable to me compared to the stock pads. I never experienced any overheating or brake fade either and I was flat out aggressive in the last two sessions with increases in speed and going much deeper into the corners before braking.

The RSL-29s are not going to give you that quick initial bite or friction level of a full race pad, but they do allow you to drive them on the street plus to and from events without any headaches. So far, in daily driving they act just like the stock pads, very rotor friendly, noise is the same as is dusting. I need to measure the pads this weekend, but the big advantage with the Pagid setup should be extended wear on track compared to the stock pads, which helps to offset the cost.

I am going to try a square 315 setup at some point, but am in no hurry until I start using up the tire collection I have at the moment. ;)
 
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CSL

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Good info....thanks. I think our cars are twins. I'm curious what your hot pressures were on the Cup2s, and how many sessions/days are you getting out of them?
 

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Good info....thanks. I think our cars are twins. I'm curious what your hot pressures were on the Cup2s, and how many sessions/days are you getting out of them?
I run the Cup 2s at 35 hot, which is my target. I have not exceeded 36 hot as that seems to be the point where they start falling off. The amount of track days are dependent on driving style and the track attended. My last set, I had 6 track days and around 1100 street miles.

I would not have replaced them as they reached that perfect almost-slick and a few good heat cycles left in them stage. In fact I was really looking forward to using them on a big track, but it was raining the day before the event and the morning of, so I played it safe with a new set instead of killing myself. :D
 

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Bingo13....Noticeable improvement? Steeda IRS Rear Subframe Support Braces (cherry on top)
 

Bingo13

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Bingo13....Noticeable improvement? Steeda IRS Rear Subframe Support Braces (cherry on top)
Subjectively from inside the car at two different tracks now, a big yes. Objectively, I will compare lap times at the next event in a couple of weeks at the same track I was on before I added the braces.
 

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Did you do your rear suspension mods incrementally or all at once? How would you describe the difference in NVH? On Cup 2s I can't envison this car getting a whole lot better without compromsing everyday driveability? Right now the rear just plants and goes. My driving style is smooth, so I tend to not throw the car around the track. This may enhance what I feel in OEM configuration?
 

Bingo13

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Did you do your rear suspension mods incrementally or all at once? How would you describe the difference in NVH? On Cup 2s I can't envison this car getting a whole lot better without compromsing everyday driveability? Right now the rear just plants and goes. My driving style is smooth, so I tend to not throw the car around the track. This may enhance what I feel in OEM configuration?
I have a very smooth driving style also. I am not into tossing the car around as it slows you down. ;) I did two events with the car in the stock configuration, just switching out tires to get a feel for the car and what tire worked best for my driving style and abilities.

I did not like how the rear end still had some squirming and wanted to slide out a little if upset in turn. So I did everything but the Steeda Strut braces at once, knowing that was probably going to happen anyway with the alignment I wanted to run and the inherent weakness in the IRS bushings and link designs.

The car is completely different and running on the same track in similar conditions I picked up over a second a lap as the ability (confidence) to enter the corner quicker/deeper and exit earlier with full throttle on was greatly improved. This was on a fairly short 1.7m track. I will have time differences on the other tracks over the next six weeks.

That said, I probably should have tried the Steeda IRS braces and subframe alignment kit with a revised alignment first before doing the bushings. Not that I would have stopped there as I firmly believe the bushing and link designs are in real need of improvement, but to see how well they worked with the stock suspension based on a subjective analysis with them installed after the bushings.

As for the NVH, there is a slight difference, but not much at all. The FTBR items are designed to provide as close to stock experience as possible while increasing performance. I do not notice it on smooth roads, even in sport mode, but there is a difference on rougher roads and those that are uneven. I am not going sugarcoat it, but it would never keep me from daily driving the car if needed. Of course, between the exhaust and turning up AC/DC, it does not bother me regardless of road conditions. :D

What I do know is that at the last event, driving against another GT350 and a GT350R with similar drivers or better on the same tires, I was anywhere from two to four seconds a lap faster on average. And this was my first time on this particular track with the car, the others already had a few events on this track.

Part of that is the track suits my driving style and I came up to speed quickly, but most of it is the changes to the car. The rear end is "really" planted now and throttle on capabilities right after apexing is so much better now. I had to relearn when to throttle on and I can do it in a more aggressive manner also. The last benefit, I love trail braking where appropriate and I no longer have any concerns with the car doing it.
 

Voodooo

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I have a very smooth driving style also. I am not into tossing the car around as it slows you down. ;) I did two events with the car in the stock configuration, just switching out tires to get a feel for the car and what tire worked best for my driving style and abilities.

I did not like how the rear end still had some squirming and wanted to slide out a little if upset in turn. So I did everything but the Steeda Strut braces at once, knowing that was probably going to happen anyway with the alignment I wanted to run and the inherent weakness in the IRS bushings and link designs.

The car is completely different and running on the same track in similar conditions I picked up over a second a lap as the ability (confidence) to enter the corner quicker/deeper and exit earlier with full throttle on was greatly improved. This was on a fairly short 1.7m track. I will have time differences on the other tracks over the next six weeks.

That said, I probably should have tried the Steeda IRS braces and subframe alignment kit with a revised alignment first before doing the bushings. Not that I would have stopped there as I firmly believe the bushing and link designs are in real need of improvement, but to see how well they worked with the stock suspension based on a subjective analysis with them installed after the bushings.

As for the NVH, there is a slight difference, but not much at all. The FTBR items are designed to provide as close to stock experience as possible while increasing performance. I do not notice it on smooth roads, even in sport mode, but there is a difference on rougher roads and those that are uneven. I am not going sugarcoat it, but it would never keep me from daily driving the car if needed. Of course, between the exhaust and turning up AC/DC, it does not bother me regardless of road conditions. :D

What I do know is that at the last event, driving against another GT350 and a GT350R with similar drivers or better on the same tires, I was anywhere from two to four seconds a lap faster on average. And this was my first time on this particular track with the car, the others already had a few events on this track.

Part of that is the track suits my driving style and I came up to speed quickly, but most of it is the changes to the car. The rear end is "really" planted now and throttle on capabilities right after apexing is so much better now. I had to relearn when to throttle on and I can do it in a more aggressive manner also. The last benefit, I love trail braking where appropriate and I no longer have any concerns with the car doing it.
^this is why if you really plan on tracking your car not to buy a GT350R.
I also have similar mods, before I bought my 2016 track pack I considered a base GT350. My plan at that time was to do the same suspension mods that I already have done but to also swap the stock shocks/struts for DSSV dampers. I'm glad I didn't because at the time I ordered my track pack nobody knew the base and tech would have the trans without the pump.
I have been talking to the guys at DSC and I'm waiting for my control module to arrive, Jordan also told me about the Tractive dampers. These would also keep all the mode selections and also work with the DSC controller. But for 8k I'll wait lol.
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