GT350R Track Alignement

[JeremyPro5.0]

Hello, search did me nada so I thought I'd ask.
2018 GT350R does not come prepped from factory with road race alignment setup?? Correct me if I am wrong.
It also does not include caster / chamber plates?? Again feel free to tell me how truly wrong I am.

What have you all found for track work that makes best use for carving corners on shorter, track with a number of lower speed corners (Lime Rock)?
Also can these numbers be achieved without getting caster / camber plates??

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[jmn444]

Haven't been to lime rock, but I am happy with -3.2 front and -2.2 rear currently.. can get the rear w/o extra parts, but need cc plates and possibly bolts to get -3.2 up front depending on if you are lowered and which cc plates you buy...

 

[jmn444]

oh i think i set front to 1/16 toe in and rear to 1/8 toe in, but can't 100% remember that off hand... may be 3/16 in rear.

I tried zero toe in front and saw heavier wear on the inside of the pass front tire on clockwise tracks, seems to like 1/16 in so far.

 

[JeremyPro5.0]

Thanks. The GT3350R is stock height presently

 

[meterman]

Jason, I know you mentioned this in another thread but can you tell me what you are running camber bolts? camber plates? if you have the 350R plates can you identify that. I am just perplexed why I can't get more than -2.4 with the stock adjustable 350R camber plates and BMR camber bolts.

 

[jmn444]

Jason, I know you mentioned this in another thread but can you tell me what you are running camber bolts? camber plates? if you have the 350R plates can you identify that. I am just perplexed why I can't get more than -2.4 with the stock adjustable 350R camber plates and BMR camber bolts.

I have FP lowering springs which adds camber too, but before I did the springs, a combo of the oem 2019 non-R handling pack camber plates and the bmr camber bolts allowed me to get -3.9 on pass side and -3.6 on driver side. after lowering, I left the plates maxed out and used the bolts to make both sides -3.2, i THINK one side bolt is pretty much at neutral and the other is approx -.3 positive to make them the same.

I have my bolts installed on the top hole of the knuckle, but that prob wouldn't make a difference...

 

[JeremyPro5.0]

I guess no one is setting up their car with track alignment specs unless they have the plates.
Time to place an order.

 

[jmn444]

I guess no one is setting up their car with track alignment specs unless they have the plates.
Time to place an order.

yeah, sorry for not being more direct about your questions, but you were correct the cars don't come aligned for track and only the 19+ have plates from factory. You are best off getting plates especially if you will be trying different tires because the cup 2's kind of like (subjective) a bit less camber than some other tires due to the nature of having the stickiest part on the outer half of the tire.

I also personally opted to add some other parts to the rear like camber lock outs, adjustable camber arms, and adjustable toe arms, because IMO it's incredibly difficult to torque the OEM camber adjustment slot, and also difficult to do finer adjustments as it's just a slotted attachment point. the aftermarket parts turn it all into turnbuckle style adjustments which is much easier to fine tune.

Just depends on how nutty you want to get and how much you will try to tweak things to go faster.

 

[honeybadger]

Lots of good stuff in Jason's post above.

I run MM camber plates, but the VOrshlag plates are better. Adjustable toe arms and rear camber arms (upper control arms) are must. OEM stuff is complete garbage.

 

[JeremyPro5.0]

Thanks all, definitely gets me in a better direction.

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