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GT/CS vs. GT/PP

justinakajuice

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The PP Good:

I had a '15 Performance Pack GT. Loved how great it felt in turns. You could go in, feel a little nervous during an approach, but as soon as you begin turning, it just gave you a feeling of confidence. The car just felt solid, tight. the 3.73s kicked ass when I lined up against my victims.

The PP Bad:

Bouncy. It had a bit too much bounce driving over rough patches of road. Unfortunately, there's a lot of construction in my area that creates a bit of an annoyance. Rims sucked balls to clean. Poorly designed shifter intermittently kept doing these mini grind-like feeling going into gear. Summer-only tires suck for cold roads and I live in the D.C. area.

The GT/CS Good:

Way nicer ride over the aforementioned bumps. Like driving a cloud after owning the PP. Auto so I can drink coffee in the morning w/o it splashing all over. Has a strut tower brace. Rims are cleaned way faster, cutting wash times down by about 10-15".

The GT/CS Bad:

It's an auto. Ain't gonna lie, I miss the 6-spd, but I have more faith in the auto holding up to a SC and the gearing was so close that I went this route. Handling. After coming from that confidence I had in the PP, the GT/CS disappoints.

Why I posted this here:

Need to fix the less than stellar handling of the GT/CS. I do NOT want the bumpy ride I had, but would like the feel I had in the turns. I can compromise a little bumpiness to get it. What components would help out? I checked what was on the PP in terms of suspension and it looks like I may be able to get what I want with a set of springs and sway bars.

What are your thoughts and recommendations?
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Viperbluecobra

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I would think anything aftermarket would be harsher than the PP components. Maybe try a few PP components at a time, and progressively see how it comes out.
 

IvanCRF

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The "Free Font Swaybar Mod" is worth the effort if you have good drill bits.
 

BmacIL

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The PP Good:

I had a '15 Performance Pack GT. Loved how great it felt in turns. You could go in, feel a little nervous during an approach, but as soon as you begin turning, it just gave you a feeling of confidence. The car just felt solid, tight. the 3.73s kicked ass when I lined up against my victims.

The PP Bad:

Bouncy. It had a bit too much bounce driving over rough patches of road. Unfortunately, there's a lot of construction in my area that creates a bit of an annoyance. Rims sucked balls to clean. Poorly designed shifter intermittently kept doing these mini grind-like feeling going into gear. Summer-only tires suck for cold roads and I live in the D.C. area.

The GT/CS Good:

Way nicer ride over the aforementioned bumps. Like driving a cloud after owning the PP. Auto so I can drink coffee in the morning w/o it splashing all over. Has a strut tower brace. Rims are cleaned way faster, cutting wash times down by about 10-15".

The GT/CS Bad:

It's an auto. Ain't gonna lie, I miss the 6-spd, but I have more faith in the auto holding up to a SC and the gearing was so close that I went this route. Handling. After coming from that confidence I had in the PP, the GT/CS disappoints.

Why I posted this here:

Need to fix the less than stellar handling of the GT/CS. I do NOT want the bumpy ride I had, but would like the feel I had in the turns. I can compromise a little bumpiness to get it. What components would help out? I checked what was on the PP in terms of suspension and it looks like I may be able to get what I want with a set of springs and sway bars.

What are your thoughts and recommendations?
Pick up a set of 2016 GT PP rear shocks and 2015/2016 GT PP springs, struts and rear bar. The 2016 rear shocks have different low-speed bleed setting and significantly improve the bounciness. I'd also recommend one of the cradle lockout solutions that'll also improve the bounciness and improve the consistency of the handling. Should be able to do all of that for $500-600 tops.

Depending on if you want a little lowered, you could opt for BMR Performance Springs instead of the stock GT PP springs. The rates are very similar.
 

MustangCollector

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one of my friends just got his 2016 CS last week and i drove it back to back. it rides so nice and cushy but does not handle anywhere near what a stock PP or my modified PP car does. I felt the back end getting loose very easily and it scared me a few times. i honestly like the comfort but it gets boring really quick on these cars if you ask me. If you get the CS think also your getting non staggered rims and all season tires, this plays a huge role in comfort and doesnt help handling. the CS is just a trim package for what it is and if you dont love the wheels or handling i dont think its worth it. You can order a GT PP with redline interior option and do a spoiler, grill and stripes rather inexpensive
 

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timd38

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I have 2016 CS on order and bought PP sway bars, springs, links and strut bearings in the sales section. Getting the PP shocks and struts from the dealer. Hope to have the CS (needed an auto) with PP suspension.

Made a deal with my wife that would not modify the car, and OE parts to me is not modifying it.
 
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Sc00ter

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The PP Good:

Need to fix the less than stellar handling of the GT/CS. I do NOT want the bumpy ride I had, but would like the feel I had in the turns. I can compromise a little bumpiness to get it. What components would help out? I checked what was on the PP in terms of suspension and it looks like I may be able to get what I want with a set of springs and sway bars.

What are your thoughts and recommendations?
My two cents is to start by installing the Ford Racing Strut Tower Brace kit to get your precise steering back ($179 from American Muscle, no tax, free shipping, makes a HUGE difference). Then go for the rear PP sway bar next to tighten the back end (it'll be my next upgrade). Since the regular GT's front sway bar is the same thickness as the PP's, I personally wouldn't switch them.

See how those two changes work before moving on to the springs: who knows? You may decide you don't need them. Have fun!
:ford:
 

jasonstang

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I think a nice set of tires and stiffer shocks should bring CS back to PP kinda corning yet not losing the softness.
I personally tired of sporty ride anymore. Had it on my RX-8 R3, hated it. So bumpy.
The GT is my cruiser/drag car. A gentlemen's cruiser is what I am looking for.
 

jasonstang

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My two cents is to start by installing the Ford Racing Strut Tower Brace kit to get your precise steering back ($179 from American Muscle, no tax, free shipping, makes a HUGE difference). Then go for the rear PP sway bar next to tighten the back end (it'll be my next upgrade). Since the regular GT's front sway bar is the same thickness as the PP's, I personally wouldn't switch them.

See how those two changes work before moving on to the springs: who knows? You may decide you don't need them. Have fun!
:ford:
The CS already comes with the strut tower brace.
 

NightmareMoon

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keep your soft CS springs, but look into some adjustable shocks so you can play with harder or softer damper settings.

Look at a mild front swaybar increase to help with turnin (the free mod where you drill a second hole for a stiffer setting on the stock bar sounds about right). Most if not all aftermarket swaybars will probably be too much for bumpy roads. Also look into a good alignment to help with turnin and cornering.

The rear IRS stop-the-hop parts may be a good idea, but that sound sound like your main beef.
 

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TheDivaDanielle

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I'm local in the DC area, and I have my stock 2016 GTPP springs laying around if you want to experiment at all......
 

SK GT

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Pick up a set of 2016 GT PP rear shocks and 2015/2016 GT PP springs, struts and rear bar. The 2016 rear shocks have different low-speed bleed setting and significantly improve the bounciness. I'd also recommend one of the cradle lockout solutions that'll also improve the bounciness and improve the consistency of the handling. Should be able to do all of that for $500-600 tops.

Depending on if you want a little lowered, you could opt for BMR Performance Springs instead of the stock GT PP springs. The rates are very similar.
Interesting on the 2016 PP rear shocks. Anyone have a part number for them? I have a non PP car and on steeda progressives. Where was it mentioned the change in PP shocks from 15 to 16? Just curious
 

TorkN8R

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The PP Good:

I had a '15 Performance Pack GT. Loved how great it felt in turns. You could go in, feel a little nervous during an approach, but as soon as you begin turning, it just gave you a feeling of confidence. The car just felt solid, tight. the 3.73s kicked ass when I lined up against my victims.

The PP Bad:

Bouncy. It had a bit too much bounce driving over rough patches of road. Unfortunately, there's a lot of construction in my area that creates a bit of an annoyance. Rims sucked balls to clean. Poorly designed shifter intermittently kept doing these mini grind-like feeling going into gear. Summer-only tires suck for cold roads and I live in the D.C. area.




The GT/CS Good:

Way nicer ride over the aforementioned bumps. Like driving a cloud after owning the PP. Auto so I can drink coffee in the morning w/o it splashing all over. Has a strut tower brace. Rims are cleaned way faster, cutting wash times down by about 10-15".
In

The GT/CS Bad:

It's an auto. Ain't gonna lie, I miss the 6-spd, but I have more faith in the auto holding up to a SC and the gearing was so close that I went this route. Handling. After coming from that confidence I had in the PP, the GT/CS disappoints.






Why I posted this here:

Need to fix the less than stellar handling of the GT/CS. I do NOT want the bumpy ride I had, but would like the feel I had in the turns. I can compromise a little bumpiness to get it. What components would help out? I checked what was on the PP in terms of suspension and it looks like I may be able to get what I want with a set of springs and sway bars.

What are your thoughts and recommendations?
In response to your question, I would like to ask the group another question.

What is it exactly that is wrong with the entire FRP Handling Track Package for approx: $1,100?

A lot of suggestions seem to be installing the FRP Struts/Shocks but not the springs. What is it about the springs that they are not liked? They are obviously stiffer than the PP springs and lower about an 1".

It would seem to make sense that the entire FRP package with Springs, F Struts, R Shocks, F&R sways all tuned into an entire package would be ideal.

Can someone please explain to the rest of us?
 

BmacIL

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Interesting on the 2016 PP rear shocks. Anyone have a part number for them? I have a non PP car and on steeda progressives. Where was it mentioned the change in PP shocks from 15 to 16? Just curious
Inside info ;)
 

dcasandman

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I put BMR performance springs on mine and it has made the car perfect for me. Took away the super cush and now its just right. Not to soft and not to firm.
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