Fuse Tap Orientation.

[CrazyHippie]

One side is hot the other cold.
The Fuse tap has to be in the correct position to make sure the fuse tangs are in the correct slot.I think if you have it backwards you get power thru both fuses at the same time instead of just one.
I need a Multimeter to test and and I don't one nor know how to use it.
Guess I'll have to learn.

Ok. I stand corrected!

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[MattMPA]

Orientation also matters as if it's the wrong way around, you'll be drawing power through the original fuse - not the panel. You could blow that fuse with the added current. (Agreed, unlikely)

Also, I'll add that a multi-meter isn't expensive and a great tool to have and understand.

 

[Daryl333]

Orientation of the tap is key!

Take a pass tester so you can determine how the tap works.
Usually the side with the wire is the part of the tap that has to go to the cold side of the fuse location.
Measure which side of the fuse location is the hot side beforehand.

Is there an easy test or do I have to go buy a Multimeter?
Thx

 

[Nightmonkey]

@Daryl333
A circuit tester will work too.
e.g.
https://www.otctools.com/products/heavy-duty-straight-cord-circuit-tester
https://a.co/d/bG5kr1b

...or any other low wattage 12 V bulb with + and - wires on it.

You have to test out with a hot circuit with this, I would prefere a cheap multimeter, because it is versatile and you can test with cold circuit.

e.g. UNI-T UT125C https://a.co/d/japsiSn

I have this in my toolbox, UNI-T UT139C https://a.co/d/f6y4Th2
I would recommend it.
it is more versatile than UT125C

 

[Nightmonkey]

@Daryl333
I didn't think of the simplest thing earlier.
I'm an electrician, so I'd prefer to take measurements rather than just test around.

You can of course test by pulling the fuses, but I know how hard they are to get out of the taps.
If after pulling the bottom fuse, your tap circuit is also dead, then the tap is set the wrong way around.

When you pull the bottom fuse, the circuit in the car must be dead but your tap must still have power.
If you pull the top fuse, then your tap must be dead, but the circuit in the car must still have power.

However, it is unclear to me how the car reacts when the fuse is missing, error messages and something does not work is the least, probably the only.

 

[Daryl333]

@Daryl333
A circuit tester will work too.
e.g.
https://www.otctools.com/products/heavy-duty-straight-cord-circuit-tester
https://a.co/d/bG5kr1b

...or any other low wattage 12 V bulb with + and - wires on it.

You have to test out with a hot circuit with this, I would prefere a cheap multimeter, because it is versatile and you can test with cold circuit.

e.g. UNI-T UT125C https://a.co/d/japsiSn

I have this in my toolbox, UNI-T UT139C https://a.co/d/f6y4Th2
I would recommend it.
it is more versatile than UT125C

I went out and got this tonight. Should do the trick.
Thing is you being an Electrician this is so easy to grasp for you.
I'm a retired dynamic Helicopter component technician. Oh so he knows Avionics right?
Wrong that's a whole different section and parts so I'm totally illiterate even operating this little tool. I haven't got around to reading up yet but it's a start right.
All I need to know is:
what setting do I put it on to find the hot side?
When I connect to fuse what am am I looking for on the meter?
Do I ground black to complete connection?
If you can get me started I promise to read up on the rest of the use of this tool.
Lol
Thx.

 

[Nightmonkey]

To measure the hot side of the fusebox:

Black to ground/- (doorhinge etc)
Red to the contact in the fusebox, can be tricky!
A bend open paper clip can help to get down to the contact, or a blown fuse:

Has to show ~12...13 V for the hot side, 0 V for the cold side.



To check which part of the fuse tab is how connected:

Black to the wire of the tap.
Red to the fuse box connector of the tab.

This setup should beep or show 0 Ω

Black or red to ground does not matter until you want to measure polarity.

Some of these help to keep ground with no hand, maybe different measuring wires with connector are needed for it.

Something link this is also helpful in some case, we call them "flylegs" for obvious reason:

 

[GTP]

...

Yeah, and NEVER use that red socket labeled "10A" until you really know what you are doing. Put a piece of tape over it for now.

From memory of my testing, the forward side of the fuses are always hot, and the rearward side are the "load" circuits. So the fuse tap wires should face rearward. Which means many people have their fuse taps in backwards, although most of the time it doesn't matter so long as the fuses don't blow.

 

[Daryl333]

To measure the hot side of the fusebox:

Black to ground/- (doorhinge etc)
Red to the contact in the fusebox, can be tricky!
A bend open paper clip can help to get down to the contact, or a blown fuse:

Has to show ~12...13 V for the hot side, 0 V for the cold side.



To check which part of the fuse tab is how connected:

Black to the wire of the tap.
Red to the fuse box connector of the tab.

This setup should beep or show 0 Ω

Black or red to ground does not matter until you want to measure polarity.

Some of these help to keep ground with no hand, maybe different measuring wires with connector are needed for it.

Something link this is also helpful in some case, we call them "flylegs" for obvious reason:

Okay thx so much for this little tutorial.
Instruction manual not so easy to understand.
One other question?
Is it possible to measure continuity thru coated wire?
I had to extend my boost gauge power wire to reach said fuse box. And wanted to test it before getting up under the dash and zapping it in there.

 

[Nightmonkey]

There are needle tips with which you can pierce through the insulation, but I would only do that in exceptional cases. But you can also help yourself e.g. with a needle/thin pin.
You can also measure the tap directly at the contacts, if necessary again with a paper clip.

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