Super Werty
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Edit : ending up being a slightly loose nut on the sway bar. Problem is gone now
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Front end clunk on bumps HELP
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Super Werty
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I checked the 3 mounting nuts, but not the center. Do you have a torque spec for that one?
Armen
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Yes, that's the one I'm talking about. Ideally you need a impact gun for that one because if you try and turn it slow (with a ratchet, torque wrench etc), the entire assembly turns with it, not tightening anything. If you don't have an impact gun, just stop by whatever shop you use and they'll do it for you in two seconds.
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I've seen where some will say not to use an impact gun on this nut. I've done it with all 3 vehicles I've lowered and never had an issue. But many will recommend a tool (never seen it - not pliers or vicegrips) to hold the piston rod and using a torque wrench on the top nut.
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I've seen where some will say not to use an impact gun on this nut. I've done it with all 3 vehicles I've lowered and never had an issue. But many will recommend a tool (never seen it - not pliers or vicegrips) to hold the piston rod and using a torque wrench on the top nut.
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Super Werty
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What is the likelihood of those becoming loose all of the sudden though. I have a feeling its something else...
I checked them and they seem to be fully tightened down based on how many threads I can see on the top. I watched them do that with an impact when they installed it.
I checked them and they seem to be fully tightened down based on how many threads I can see on the top. I watched them do that with an impact when they installed it.
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Armen
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I can say I've never had one come loose. Just had to tighten them more after the initial test drive after installation. But... I just thought it was worth checking if you've checked everything else.
I was going to suggest checking the thread count from side to side, but if they both happen to be loose (or just not quite tight enough), then that wouldn't really be helpful to you.
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Super Werty
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Yea they are both the same side to side.
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Super Werty
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Any other suggestions??
gtmiller1001
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***EDIT: I just read back through your post and saw you said you watched them use an impact on the top strut nuts. I'll bet they were turning the whole assembly and are not torqued to spec. I've used an impact and had it tighten up and I've also used one and then checked the torque by hand just to find the whole thing turning with the strut rod and not being fully tight.**
I had the exact same issue after putting the first set of springs on my car. I did not use a spring compressor but instead left the top strut plate suspended loosely by the three nuts on top and then carefully jacked up the lower control arm while lining everything up. I did the drivers side by myself and it was a bitch. I had a friend available for the passenger side to work the jack so I could really keep a light on the top of the strut assy. (from underneath) to make sure everything was lining up under the car.
So, I've done my springs twice and helped a buddy with his and I think what happened to me the first time (and what may be your issue) is the top strut mount with the bearing in it and the spring isolater are not mated perfectly centered. I noticed on subsequent work on my car that it is possible to have them off just a little. Everything will go back together just fine and look fine (and drive fine) but I really think the first time I did mine solo I may have not lined it up perfectly. After I did my second set of springs on my car with this in mind I had no clunk at all.
Obviously if you use a spring compressor to put the strut assy. back together outside of the vehicle lining the isolator and strut plate up is much easier If you're having a "clunk" issue, especially from one side on the front that's the first thing I'd check. You'll unfortunately need to remove the strut assy. again to check it.
As far as torquing the strut nut...I have an impact and that does work sometimes. Alternatively you can get a set of needle nose vice grips and hold that nut in place while turning the strut rod with a wrench or socket (if doing this you clearly turn the strut rod counterclockwise to tighten the nut you're holding with the pliers). Once you get it snug you can usually use a torque wrench on the nut without holding backup to get it tightened to spec. Even if the whole thing still turns a little use a fast and short motion to "swing" the socket wrench....basically simulating an impact wrench. That will usually help it get snug enough to not turn the entire assy. as well. You'll need a deep 21mm socket for that top strut nut and I believe the torque is 76 lb-ft (but you should verify that).
If you didn't get this torqued down then that would obviously be the first thing to address before removing the strut assy. for inspection.
I had the exact same issue after putting the first set of springs on my car. I did not use a spring compressor but instead left the top strut plate suspended loosely by the three nuts on top and then carefully jacked up the lower control arm while lining everything up. I did the drivers side by myself and it was a bitch. I had a friend available for the passenger side to work the jack so I could really keep a light on the top of the strut assy. (from underneath) to make sure everything was lining up under the car.
So, I've done my springs twice and helped a buddy with his and I think what happened to me the first time (and what may be your issue) is the top strut mount with the bearing in it and the spring isolater are not mated perfectly centered. I noticed on subsequent work on my car that it is possible to have them off just a little. Everything will go back together just fine and look fine (and drive fine) but I really think the first time I did mine solo I may have not lined it up perfectly. After I did my second set of springs on my car with this in mind I had no clunk at all.
Obviously if you use a spring compressor to put the strut assy. back together outside of the vehicle lining the isolator and strut plate up is much easier If you're having a "clunk" issue, especially from one side on the front that's the first thing I'd check. You'll unfortunately need to remove the strut assy. again to check it.
As far as torquing the strut nut...I have an impact and that does work sometimes. Alternatively you can get a set of needle nose vice grips and hold that nut in place while turning the strut rod with a wrench or socket (if doing this you clearly turn the strut rod counterclockwise to tighten the nut you're holding with the pliers). Once you get it snug you can usually use a torque wrench on the nut without holding backup to get it tightened to spec. Even if the whole thing still turns a little use a fast and short motion to "swing" the socket wrench....basically simulating an impact wrench. That will usually help it get snug enough to not turn the entire assy. as well. You'll need a deep 21mm socket for that top strut nut and I believe the torque is 76 lb-ft (but you should verify that).
If you didn't get this torqued down then that would obviously be the first thing to address before removing the strut assy. for inspection.
redline727
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Sway bar end links would be my first guess.
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Super Werty
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I checked out my dad's car... Same car and suspension set up. We both have the same amount of threads showing on top of the strut. So I don't think it's that. Gonna take everything apart today and try to find it.
BrantMcE
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I agree with redline if the noise sounds anything like in this video I recorded of my car
Mine didn't show up for a couple months. I took it to the dealership and I drove the tec around the block, the first guess we both agreed it was likely a loose nut on the strut but after he took it back and further inspection, realized it was the sway bar endlink on the passenger side. I guess the nut or threads are plastic or nylon and one can easily ruin the threads if tightening with an impact wrench. Told me part was on back order but that they would let me know when they got it back in stock. He said he it should be fine to drive for now, just annoying.
Sorry forgot to mention, by didn't show up for a couple months, I meant didn't show up until a couple months after I lowered the car. Initial couple months everything was fine.
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Super Werty
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that video sounds exactly like mine! I'll have to check them again, ran out of time to do it today
BrantMcE
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Glad the video could help some. I took pictures of both passenger and driver sides of the sway bar and connecting rods when I was painting my calipers not too long ago. Jiggling everything around nothing made any noise, but I took pictures of the only thing that looked kinda odd, and it was the connection on the passenger side of the sway bar where the rod connected to it. It just liked like the rubber/plastic black piece was compressed at an odd angle in comparison to the driver side which appeared to be completely vertical/parallel to the strut. I'll try post the pictures tomorrow when I'm at my computer since using the uploader on my phone is a pita.
Niz55
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Maybe this is your problem? I am running same springs but with Steeda sways. Either grind the tip or get spacers/washers.
Make sure to torque down the sway bar links nuts to 85lbs
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31057
Make sure to torque down the sway bar links nuts to 85lbs
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31057
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