FP track handling pack install

[dmann]

For those that have installed this package, how hard is it to do? Is this something an average
guy can do with normal tools? I also would be adding Steeda camber plates to the struts.

Once installed, how long does it take for the suspension to settle? I'm trying to understand for alignment purposes?

-David

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[Schwerin]

For those that have installed this package, how hard is it to do? Is this something an average
guy can do with normal tools? I also would be adding Steeda camber plates to the struts.

Once installed, how long does it take for the suspension to settle? I'm trying to understand for alignment purposes?

-David

You'll need a spring compressor, otherwise the rest should be "easy" if you take your time.

 

[BmacIL]

You'll need a spring compressor, otherwise the rest should be "easy" if you take your time.

The full package does not require a spring compressor. The installation is pretty straightforward.

 

[jbostian]

For those that have installed this package, how hard is it to do? Is this something an average
guy can do with normal tools? I also would be adding Steeda camber plates to the struts.

Once installed, how long does it take for the suspension to settle? I'm trying to understand for alignment purposes?

-David

This past weekend I installed the FP street handling kit. Install is the same except you have the knuckle to toe link bearings to install. You will need some kind of press to install those bearings. I have read that some people have been able to use a ball joint press to press out the old bushing and press in the new bearing. I haven't done this, so I am not sure how difficult it is. I didn't install the caster camber plates, but as Schwerin mentioned, you will need a spring compressor to install those. Overall, the install was pretty straight forward. I have an air compressor and an impact that made quick work of all of the fasteners, but it can be done with regular tools. You might want to have a breaker bar handy and a piece of pipe for some additional leverage in case there are any stubborn bolts. You will need a torque wrench when reassembling. I would recommend installing the Steeda rear subframe alignment kit and bushing support system while you have the rear subframe unbolted. It really made the rear of the car feel more planted. I have put about 200 miles on my car so far and my car is sitting about 3/4" lower. I am planning on getting an alignment next week. While it is in for the alignment I am going to have them "clock" the bushings. Basically it will adjust any preload on the bushings at the suspension pivot points. There are a couple of threads about clocking the bushings if you want to read more about it. I was able to find some good videos on youtube on the install of the suspension parts. You might want to check them out, it will give you a good idea of what you are getting into.

 

[dmann]

The full package does not require a spring compressor. The installation is pretty straightforward.

Gotta install the camber plates :(

 

[dmann]

This past weekend I installed the FP street handling kit.

From looking at the install doc it does seem straight forward. I didn't think about the knuckle<->toe link and having to use a press. The two issues that I have read about are the front sway bar being difficult and the rear springs. Did you have any issues with these two?

I'll search the forums for the knuckle<->toe link difficulty to see if a newbie could do it.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Front swaybar was almost impossible to swap out on my car at home in the garage. We couldnt quite get the car high enough off the ground with a normal jack and jack stands to wiggle the damn thing out (PP car with mounts bound to the car so a base GT might be ever so slightly easier). The front swaybar was not an enjoyable thing to deal with. The rear bar takes 5 minutes.

Rental screw type spring compressors are a pain, but you’ll get there eventually. I’d rather (and did) have a shop do that part with a real tool, because its just sooo much easier with the right compressor.

The car wont “settle” much on it’s own. What is really required is “clocking the bushings” with all 4 tires on the ground. This is probably easiest to do on an alignment rack. Until you do that step correctly the car’s bushings will be constantly trying to keep it at the old ride height, and it wont settle properly until you do so.

The other settling that takes place is mostly the springs settling into their seats, which is mostly insignificant if you seat them right in the first place, IMHO.

Good luck if you attempt this yourself. Its no small amount of work. I did as much myself with a second pair of hands, and again later on a lift. The lift makes a huge difference.

 

[dmann]

I just looked at what comes with the kits and the knuckle<->toe bearing is not part of the kit.
I'm reading it's a pain, Is it necessary?

In the install doc it shows replacing it, but why? Is the diameter changed with the new toe link?

 

[jbostian]

From looking at the install doc it does seem straight forward. I didn't think about the knuckle<->toe link and having to use a press. The two issues that I have read about are the front sway bar being difficult and the rear springs. Did you have any issues with these two?

I'll search the forums for the knuckle<->toe link difficulty to see if a newbie could do it.

The front sway bar wasn't too bad, I did have my dad help me fish it out of the car though. I pulled it out from the passengers side. It was a little difficult to maneuver around the strut. So I fished the new sway bar through before I installed the passenger side strut. It was pretty easy getting the new one in without the strut in the way. I did use a wobble extension to reach one of the bracket bolts. On the GT, I believe the driver's side rear bolt isn't accessible from the engine bay and you will need to go through the wheel well.

 

[BmacIL]

From looking at the install doc it does seem straight forward. I didn't think about the knuckle<->toe link and having to use a press. The two issues that I have read about are the front sway bar being difficult and the rear springs. Did you have any issues with these two?

I'll search the forums for the knuckle<->toe link difficulty to see if a newbie could do it.

If you have a GT, you have the PP toe link already.

 

[jbostian]

From looking at the install doc it does seem straight forward. I didn't think about the knuckle<->toe link and having to use a press. The two issues that I have read about are the front sway bar being difficult and the rear springs. Did you have any issues with these two?

I'll search the forums for the knuckle<->toe link difficulty to see if a newbie could do it.

Forgot to mention the rear springs. That was honestly the part I was worried about the most. Unbolting the subframe made me a little nervous. I was afraid I would have a hard time getting everything lined up again, but it wasn't bad at all. Overall the job wasn't that difficult, but it was time consuming. We spent in the neighborhood of 8 hours working on the car. But I also swapped out the front brakes while we were tearing everything apart.

 

[dmann]

Front swaybar was almost impossible to swap out on my car at home in the garage. We couldnt quite get the car high enough off the ground with a normal jack and jack stands to wiggle the damn thing out (PP car with mounts bound to the car so a base GT might be ever so slightly easier). The front swaybar was not an enjoyable thing to deal with. The rear bar takes 5 minutes.

Rental screw type spring compressors are a pain, but you’ll get there eventually. I’d rather (and did) have a shop do that part with a real tool, because its just sooo much easier with the right compressor.

The car wont “settle” much on it’s own. What is really required is “clocking the bushings” with all 4 tires on the ground. This is probably easiest to do on an alignment rack. Until you do that step correctly the car’s bushings will be constantly trying to keep it at the old ride height, and it wont settle properly until you do so.

The other settling that takes place is mostly the springs settling into their seats, which is mostly insignificant if you seat them right in the first place, IMHO.

Good luck if you attempt this yourself. Its no small amount of work. I did as much myself with a second pair of hands, and again later on a lift. The lift makes a huge difference.

That's what I'm reading. Sounds like a pain.
Clock the bushings...check! Do most alignment guys know how to do this?

 

[dmann]

If you have a GT, you have the PP toe link already.

Yes, I have a GTPP.
Does this mean I wouldn't have to replace it?

 

[BmacIL]

Yes, I have a GTPP.
Does this mean I wouldn't have to replace it?

Correct. What you could do, and some have done, is press out the bearing from the links you get in the kit and put those bearings in the knuckle. FP sells the bearing separately too.

 

[dmann]

Correct. What you could do, and some have done, is press out the bearing from the links you get in the kit and put those bearings in the knuckle. FP sells the bearing separately too.

thanks

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