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Ford Racing Oil Filter

GT Pony

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I always check my oil level when the engine is cold. Much easier to see the level on the dipstick.
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dubster99

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Everywhere I've read shows the 820 (non-FRRP) is substantially the same filter as the FRRP in this thread but $4-5 instead of $14-15.

Ive read the FRRP has SLIGHTLY more filter media inside it but they're otherwise the same size shape etc.

The FL500S is the "stock" factory type filter.
I just took mine off. I used it during my break in on the new motor.

Not sure what the difference is, but I may cut open an FL820S and one of these FRPP filters to see what the difference is.

On that note, the Amsoil version of the FL820S is likely the best possible solution. Their filtration is very good.
You guys might be interested in this:

I thought you guys would be interested in reading this comparison study because so many people are under the impression that both of these filters are exactly the same just different labels. Look at the difference in total square inches of filtering media surface, Ford Racing is 250 square inches compared to 156 square inches for the Motorcraft, that's 94 square inches less! A larger filtering surface means more oil flow and greater filtering capacity. I get my Ford Racing filters from LateModel Restoration Supply OIL FILTER, FL820 - HIGH PERFORMANCE MISCFORD for $12.99. The Ford Racing filter is built using thicker metal (noticeably heavier) for the can material and the threaded base plate is real beefy with deep high quality machined threads. I was using the K&N HP-2010 until I read this article. The Motorcraft and Ford Racing Filters both utilize a base end mounted bypass valve instead of a top dome mounted bypass valve like the K&N and Purolator models. You can read about the importance of the bypass valve location in the oil filter comparison link I have attached for you below.

Read this link for the full comparison FL-820S Oil Filter Alternatives


Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
* Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
* Overall Height - 3.99"
* Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
* Filter Element Height - 2.81"
* Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
* Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.73"
* Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
* Media thickness - 0.029"
* Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
Label - 6945234
Base - 22 / MM
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicon



Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 4.05"
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.51"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
* Media thickness - 0.035"
* Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
* Indentifying marks
Can - Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
 

Blk2015GT

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You guys might be interested in this:

I thought you guys would be interested in reading this comparison study because so many people are under the impression that both of these filters are exactly the same just different labels. Look at the difference in total square inches of filtering media surface, Ford Racing is 250 square inches compared to 156 square inches for the Motorcraft, that's 94 square inches less! A larger filtering surface means more oil flow and greater filtering capacity. I get my Ford Racing filters from LateModel Restoration Supply OIL FILTER, FL820 - HIGH PERFORMANCE MISCFORD for $12.99. The Ford Racing filter is built using thicker metal (noticeably heavier) for the can material and the threaded base plate is real beefy with deep high quality machined threads. I was using the K&N HP-2010 until I read this article. The Motorcraft and Ford Racing Filters both utilize a base end mounted bypass valve instead of a top dome mounted bypass valve like the K&N and Purolator models. You can read about the importance of the bypass valve location in the oil filter comparison link I have attached for you below.

Read this link for the full comparison FL-820S Oil Filter Alternatives


Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Oil Filter
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 19.75 oz
* Can OD - 3.68" / Seam OD - 3.76"
* Overall Height - 3.99"
* Can Material - 0.019" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.44" (at element)
* Filter Element Height - 2.81"
* Media - Cellulose - Synthetic Mix? Oiled? (appears orange)
* Number of pleats - 63 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.73"
* Media length (unrolled) - 100" (seam crimped)
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.50"
* Media thickness - 0.029"
* Total media surface area - 250 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 7.25 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.010" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.71"
* Indentifying marks
Can - 810050516 / Made in USA
Bar Code - 7_56122_07567_8
Label - 6945234
Base - 22 / MM
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicon



Motorcraft FL-820S
Measurements

* Filter Weight - 13.1 oz
* Overall OD - 3.76" @ seam / 3.66 @ can
* Overall Height - 4.05"
* Can Material - 0.02" thick steel
* Filter Element OD - 3.25"
* Filter Element Height - 2.51"
* Media - Cellulose (appears pink/orange)
* Number of pleats - 43 + 1 joint
* Depth of pleats - 0.68"
* Media length (unrolled) - 65.5"
* Media width (glue not included) - 2.375"
* Media thickness - 0.035"
* Total media surface area - 156 sq. in.
* Total media volume - 5.4 cu. in.
* Inner Filter Support Material - 0.012" Thick Perforated Steel
* Inner Filter Support OD - 1.68"
* Indentifying marks
Can - Made in USA
ADBV - 6944453 / AAX / 150
* Gasket Retention - Multiple Crimps
* Thread - M22-1.5
* Relief Valve Location - base end
* ADBV Material - Silicone (orange)
Those are the numbers I got my info from.

Remember more filter media doesnt automatically equate to better. You need to be concerned about flow rate too. The more filter it has to go through the slower the flow gets.

And technically the 820 metal is thicker by a hair .02">.019"

The 820 canister is physically bigger too by a hair at 4.05>3.99" height and the cans are essentially the same- 3.66 for the can (ok 3.68 on the FRRP) and 3.76 both at the seams.

So it's really filter media that is the difference- more media and more pleats in the media for the FRRP. For all intensive purposes the cans are the same size and volume.

The question is the $10 extra for a FRRP really worth it... I believe the 820S are about $4 at Autozone etc vs $18 for FRRP the cheapest I saw it online shipped since you can't really get them locally, 4 times the cost.
 

BMR Tech

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As I stated, the best solution is likely to get the best media, with the the larger surface area = Amsoil EA017
 

Chameleon

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Hockeyfan

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I hate to beat a dead horse but what do you guys think of the Mobil 1 EP filter , I believe its M1-212A filter? Also Pennzoil Ultimate Platinum with it ?Thanks
 

SAL-E

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I have been using the 212A filter on both of my cars now for a couple of years. No issues.
 

Elp_jc

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Just use the OEM one. It has the correct valve pressure. That's one part I don't ever buy aftermarket, due to the by-pass valve. Without such specs listed, I know the OEM filter will have the correct one (whatever it is). Besides, Ford's filter is already pretty generous in size, and most of us don't push the envelope with OCI (mine being 5K miles), so it's a non-issue. But to each his own, of course.
 

GT Pony

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Just use the OEM one. It has the correct valve pressure. That's one part I don't ever buy aftermarket, due to the by-pass valve. Without such specs listed, I know the OEM filter will have the correct one (whatever it is). Besides, Ford's filter is already pretty generous in size, and most of us don't push the envelope with OCI (mine being 5K miles), so it's a non-issue. But to each his own, of course.
According to this old info, the FL500S bypass valve setting is around 17 PSI, Purolator makes the Motorcraft filters, and the bypass info was from Purolator. If it's the same today, don't know for sure, but it probably is the same.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/mc-fl500s.157232/
 

Elp_jc

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I gather the consensus from the thread linked above was that the psi rating for the FL500S filter is 8 psi, not 16. If interested in buying aftermarket filters (I'm not), I'd call Purolator myself, since that thread was quite old :).
 

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GT Pony

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I gather the consensus from the thread linked above was that the psi rating for the FL500S filter is 8 psi, not 16. If interested in buying aftermarket filters (I'm not), I'd call Purolator myself, since that thread was quite old :).
Read the link again. This is what the Product Manager at Purolator (who makes Motorcraft filters) said:

"The FL500S filter design is not an 8 psi relief valve – Ford increased their target valve opening pressure several years ago to a higher range in the 17 + psi targets. Purolator works very close with many OE vehicle manufacturers and we do our best to keep our product updated accordingly. Best Regards, Todd Vick Manager, IAM Product Engineering "
 

Elp_jc

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Well, unless the info came from Ford, I wouldn't assume that's what it is, but to each his own. That's why I only use OEM filters, and my OCIs are 5K miles, so absolutely no drawbacks using the OEM filter. Why try to reinvent the wheel, so to speak? And the OEM filters are only like $6 at Walmart, so it makes no sense to me using any other filter, especially under warranty. But again, to each his own :).
 

GT Pony

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Well, unless the info came from Ford, I wouldn't assume that's what it is, but to each his own. That's why I only use OEM filters, and my OCIs are 5K miles, so absolutely no drawbacks using the OEM filter. Why try to reinvent the wheel, so to speak? And the OEM filters are only like $6 at Walmart, so it makes no sense to me using any other filter, especially under warranty. But again, to each his own :).
Purolator makes the Motorcraft filters and therefore all the specs from Ford are known by Purolator, so if Purolator says the bypass valve on the FL500S is 17 PSI then I believe it. You will never get a real answer from Ford or Motorcraft. The OEM filter for the 2015+ Coyote is the FL500S, not the FL820S, so people using the FL820S aren't really doing it right and trying to outguess Ford. Not sure if FRP specifies the 820 racing filter for the Coyote or not. If so, I'd consider running it also.
 
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Hockeyfan

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Correct me if I am wrong but if your changing your filter at 5,000 miles using a good quality full synthetic you should never have to worry about the bypass valve coming into play, it only comes into play if the filter is extremely dirty.
I have been using the 212A filter on both of my cars now for a couple of years. No issues.
Thank you
 

GT Pony

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Correct me if I am wrong but if your changing your filter at 5,000 miles using a good quality full synthetic you should never have to worry about the bypass valve coming into play, it only comes into play if the filter is extremely dirty.

Thank you
True, the more loaded the filter becomes the more delta-p across it and the more likely it could go into bypass. Also, never go high engine revs until the oil gets near full operating temperature. The thicker the oil and higher the flow from high RPM the more likely the filter will go into bypass.
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