Ford buy back attempt 2018 Mustang GT “typewriter tick/rattle.”

[boB]

Bring on the replies and blah blah blah I don't care I am going to say it.
The "ticks" bbq or typewriter are a result of the AC belt on ALL 2011 - 2019 mustangs.
I have had a 2013 GT and now a 17 GT both ticked. You can hear it more next to walls esp at drive throughs. On my 17 I can hear it randomly tap when revving idle at about 2000 rpm.
There was a TSB years back for an AC tensioner pulley and belt but you think Ford is going to spend millions to add them to future mustangs just because of a noise, no.
The Air Conditioner belt has more slack on some Mustangs and not as much on others.
Cut the belt and I bet it all goes away.
People been trying rebuilds, new engines, oil thicknesses etc lol.
It's the damn AC belt.

Doesn't the MT82 GT have an AC belt tensioner? The '19 service manual shows one but I haven't looked at the engine to verify this.

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[Karavel]

A few have tried your suspected cures without success. What should they try next?

There are always going to be special cases for problems, sure people have actually had internal engine bearings go bad.

All I am saying is easily 75% of the ticking dilemma is just the AC belt.

Also some people have no idea what the actual noise is and can misdiagnose it. these modern engines normally tick when you listen to them under the hood and no doubt some people can misunderstand that tick from the 2000 rpm or next to wall frantic ticking noises. The belt can have slack very easily with out any tension on the ac system.

Since these ticking noises have been happening since the 5.0 came out in 2011 and occur even today in 2019 we need to step back and think, what has changed and what has not.

Pretty much every engine part from 2011 has changed compared to 2018 even the types of oil and amount of oil. The injectors, fuel system, intake system, manifolds, valves pistons, rods and more have all changed since 2011.

It would have to be some odd coincidence that all three coyote engine builds all have ticks yet use different parts. Therefore it is unlikely it is a part failure or design or installation failure of an engine part.

What has not changed? The AC system. since there was a TSB way back in regards to the AC belt system, and the 2019 still uses the exact same system it's quite obvious what causes most of the reported ticks across all platforms.

How many times you can read and watch on the internet where the entire engine is replaced, doesn't matter what year 5.0 and the ticking noise still persists.

I simply recommend anyone with a tick first and foremost just remove the AC belt and see if it still happens, if the noise bothers one that much try the ac belt tensioner kit.

My 2017 ticks as I drive next to walls after starting it up and it has not been running for a few hours and it's only around 1500-2500 rpm. After the car warms up it goes away but cold or hot at any temperature if I am at idle with the windows down if I vary the rpm around 2000 and tap the pedal a little I can get random little ticks. For me it's just the AC belt slapping around.

My 2013 was more noticeable at idle with the rpm going around 2000, but driving I would never hear it ever.

Every belt is going to be different some tighter some looser temperature can make the belt tighter or looser also or not stick to the pulley as much there are many variables but this is my take.

 

[Karavel]

Doesn't the MT82 GT have an AC belt tensioner? The '19 service manual shows one but I haven't looked at the engine to verify this.

No, both my 13 GT and 17 Gt were manual MT82 cars and both do not have the AC belt tensioner system. No 2011 - 2019 mustang GT comes with it. it was TSB years ago Ford was doing. The 2011 engine timing cover did not have the threaded holes setup to install the kit, the later 2013 + timing cover do have them.

 

[Jmtoast]

A few have tried your suspected cures without success. What should they try next?

It sounds like different issues but no doubt in my case it’s no question the tick that I’m hearing is related to the AC. I’m not doubting others experience or issues.

 

[boB]

No, both my 13 GT and 17 Gt were manual MT82 cars and both do not have the AC belt tensioner system. No 2011 - 2019 mustang GT comes with it. it was TSB years ago Ford was doing. The 2011 engine timing cover did not have the threaded holes setup to install the kit, the later 2013 + timing cover do have them.

You are correct, my '19 does not have the belt tensioner although the tapped holes for it are there. I listened carefully and heard the rattle yesterday, I am not concerned.

 

[crimson_crowd_eater]

Bring on the replies and blah blah blah I don't care I am going to say it.
The "ticks" bbq or typewriter are a result of the AC belt on ALL 2011 - 2019 mustangs.
I have had a 2013 GT and now a 17 GT both ticked. You can hear it more next to walls esp at drive throughs. On my 17 I can hear it randomly tap when revving idle at about 2000 rpm.
There was a TSB years back for an AC tensioner pulley and belt but you think Ford is going to spend millions to add them to future mustangs just because of a noise, no.
The Air Conditioner belt has more slack on some Mustangs and not as much on others.
Cut the belt and I bet it all goes away.
People been trying rebuilds, new engines, oil thicknesses etc lol.
It's the damn AC belt.

Interesting. I'll try this tomorrow. However, how would this explain why sometimes with a heavier oil it seems to go away, or sometimes the tick happens and sometimes it doesn't (even if AC is on both times). There just seems like a lot of unexplained issues with this theory, unless you have an answer for them.

 

[Karavel]

Interesting. I'll try this tomorrow. However, how would this explain why sometimes with a heavier oil it seems to go away, or sometimes the tick happens and sometimes it doesn't (even if AC is on both times). There just seems like a lot of unexplained issues with this theory, unless you have an answer for them.

The AC belt is just running around two pulleys, the AC and the Crank. It shouldn't matter if the ac is on or not, without a tensioner putting constant tension on the belt it will "flap" like a guitar string making the ticking and this would explain the irregular ticking at idle, and also why people get more consistent ticking around 2000 rpm, once it goes past a certain rpm the belt is moving too fast to "flap" around so to say. It's just a lazy solution Ford used to penny pinch, sure it may reduce a small parasitic loss from having extra pulleys.

As far as people putting oil in their cars and noises going away, this is not really a controlled science. There could be many other things making ticking noises as some people really do end up having rod bearing problems and I could see thicker oil helping with that. But that IMO is far and few. Also not putting anyone down, but not everyone is the same, and not everyone is as thorough or mechanically inclined either. Every new engine makes ticking up top in the engine bay for the most part and it's normal. Could even be a "placebo effect" for some they put oil in and think the ticking is quieter, we are only human lol.

I am certain 75% of the ticks out there are the AC belt. Just my three cents.

 

[Cobra Jet]

There are always going to be special cases for problems, sure people have actually had internal engine bearings go bad.

All I am saying is easily 75% of the ticking dilemma is just the AC belt.

Also some people have no idea what the actual noise is and can misdiagnose it. these modern engines normally tick when you listen to them under the hood and no doubt some people can misunderstand that tick from the 2000 rpm or next to wall frantic ticking noises. The belt can have slack very easily with out any tension on the ac system.

Since these ticking noises have been happening since the 5.0 came out in 2011 and occur even today in 2019 we need to step back and think, what has changed and what has not.

Pretty much every engine part from 2011 has changed compared to 2018 even the types of oil and amount of oil. The injectors, fuel system, intake system, manifolds, valves pistons, rods and more have all changed since 2011.

It would have to be some odd coincidence that all three coyote engine builds all have ticks yet use different parts. Therefore it is unlikely it is a part failure or design or installation failure of an engine part.

What has not changed? The AC system. since there was a TSB way back in regards to the AC belt system, and the 2019 still uses the exact same system it's quite obvious what causes most of the reported ticks across all platforms.

How many times you can read and watch on the internet where the entire engine is replaced, doesn't matter what year 5.0 and the ticking noise still persists.

I simply recommend anyone with a tick first and foremost just remove the AC belt and see if it still happens, if the noise bothers one that much try the ac belt tensioner kit.

My 2017 ticks as I drive next to walls after starting it up and it has not been running for a few hours and it's only around 1500-2500 rpm. After the car warms up it goes away but cold or hot at any temperature if I am at idle with the windows down if I vary the rpm around 2000 and tap the pedal a little I can get random little ticks. For me it's just the AC belt slapping around.

My 2013 was more noticeable at idle with the rpm going around 2000, but driving I would never hear it ever.

Every belt is going to be different some tighter some looser temperature can make the belt tighter or looser also or not stick to the pulley as much there are many variables but this is my take.

What you state about the missing A/C tensioner (for those that don’t know) was covered extensively in this thread, thanks to @Condor1970 who provided much analysis, the older TSB’s and tons of other info:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/uh-guys.113536/

 

[Karavel]

What you state about the missing A/C tensioner (for those that don’t know) was covered extensively in this thread, thanks to @Condor1970 who provided much analysis, the older TSB’s and tons of other info:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/uh-guys.113536/

I'm not sure I understand what you are asking. I mentioned the AC tensioner TSB in the exact quote you copied.

 

[Karavel]

What you state about the missing A/C tensioner (for those that don’t know) was covered extensively in this thread, thanks to @Condor1970 who provided much analysis, the older TSB’s and tons of other info:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/uh-guys.113536/

Oh lol nvm my reply I read your post as a question what do you state lmao. I am up too late!

 

[LowKey]

My 18 ticked hardcore, my feb built 19 ticks on and off, just not as bad (yet). Also has the rattle worse than the 18 did, a crap trans and noises in the column/rack. Goes alright though lol

 

[Cobra Jet]

Oh lol nvm my reply I read your post as a question what do you state lmao. I am up too late!

Haha - no problem! I was just merely saying you’re correct with your analysis and in depth reply and wanted to link the other informative thread about that A/C tensioner for those that missed it.

 

[Rash]

Why is does the rattle only occur with light throttle? How does that relate to direct/port injection?

 

[Silver Bullitt]

Why is does the rattle only occur with light throttle? How does that relate to direct/port injection?

My guess would be in the 2200-2800 rpm range it is transitioning from P/I to D/I but is dependent upon throttle load. Under light throttle, you can hear it making the transition, but under any heavier throttle load D/I is instantaneous.

 

[Karavel]

Why is does the rattle only occur with light throttle? How does that relate to direct/port injection?

Imo nothing to do with DI. The rattle is related to AC belt system.

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