First time on slicks

[djcodeman]

This was my 2nd time to my local drag strip, 1h north of Austin TX.

First time on hoosier quick time pros.

First pass I launched at 18 psi cold tires, left around 2000 rpm.
2nd pass was 16 psi and 2500 rpm
3rd pass was 15 psi around 3000 rp.
4th and 5th pass were also at 15 psi and I tried to leave from 3500 + rpm.

My goal was a 1.8 60 ft, and I got there the last 2 passes.

When I go back in 2 weeks the goal will be 1.6 60 ft passes

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[NGOT8R]

This was my 2nd time to my local drag strip, 1h north of Austin TX.

First time on hoosier quick time pros.

First pass I launched at 18 psi cold tires, left around 2000 rpm.
2nd pass was 16 psi and 2500 rpm
3rd pass was 15 psi around 3000 rp.
4th and 5th pass were also at 15 psi and I tried to leave from 3500 + rpm.

My goal was a 1.8 60 ft, and I got there the last 2 passes.

When I go back in 2 weeks the goal will be 1.6 60 ft passes

I see you choppin‘ down that 60’ a little at a time! The more you do it, the better your et will be.

That was one of my problems (not getting to the track often enough, in addition to trying to dial in rear shocks and the clutch slipper device). I’ve said this many times; it’s a job to drive a manual down the drag strip and produce respectable numbers. Definitely much harder then many people think it is.

Did you experience any wheel hop out there? More rpm and some clutch slip is gonna be necessary on your launch. Try a 4500 rpm launch next time out and creep up from there with each pass until you find what the car likes.

 

[diambo4life]

You need more RPM IMO. I would start at 5,000rpm and not worry if it spins. Biasply will hook. That's why you're bogging. Stop backing up to light the tree. Back all the way up, then relight the tree while moving forward. Not only do you remove slack in your drivetrain (important in a stick car), you can prevent redlighting by just creeping forward very little to light that 2nd light..and honestly it will improve your RT as well since the car will not inadvertently roll and start the timer. What RPM are you shifting at? Great progress.

 

[djcodeman]

I see you choppin‘ down that 60’ a little at a time! The more you do it, the better your et will be.

That was one of my problems (not getting to the track often enough, in addition to trying to dial in rear shocks and the clutch slipper device). I’ve said this many times; it’s a job to drive a manual down the drag strip and produce respectable numbers. Definitely much harder then many people think it is.

Did you experience any wheel hop out there? More rpm and some clutch slip is gonna be necessary on your launch. Try a 4500 rpm launch next time out and creep up from there with each pass until you find what the car likes.

Yup. 60 ft went down from 2.2 to 1.8. No wheel hop out there. I have all the suspension neccessary to get rid of it (cradle lock out, big bertha diff bolts with red pucks, adjustable camber arms, fp toe bearing, rlca bmr bearing, vertical links).

I also will be adjusting my shocks - I was at 7c 9r... will be going 9c 12 r next outing.

I was working up to a higher rpm every time. I need to just go 5000 rpm and full send!

 

[djcodeman]

You need more RPM IMO. I would start at 5,000rpm and not worry if it spins. Biasply will hook. That's why you're bogging. Stop backing up to light the tree. Back all the way up, then relight the tree while moving forward. Not only do you remove slack in your drivetrain (important in a stick car), you can prevent redlighting by just creeping forward very little to light that 2nd light..and honestly it will improve your RT as well since the car will not inadvertently roll and start the timer. What RPM are you shifting at? Great progress.

Thanks. 5000 RPM launch is next. I am installing bmr drag springs this week, along with a remote clutch reservoir and motul 600 fluid. I wasn't going for RT, I was just going for 60 ft progress....

Im aiming for 7000 RPM shifts.

 

[Pistol_91]

Looks fun. Do you have stock axles?

 

[djcodeman]

Looks fun. Do you have stock axles?

hell no. broke the driver side stock axle on the street doing a pull.... then upgraded to the gt350 axles and the driver side broke during a pull.... now i have dss 2k hp axles

These dss axles are a PITA because the boots develop pinholes. Ive replaced them twice, but apparently this is a major manufacturing defect, so my solution now is to add super glue in the hole , then cover them with vulcanizing rubber cement.

 

[diambo4life]

Thanks. 5000 RPM launch is next. I am installing bmr drag springs this week, along with a remote clutch reservoir and motul 600 fluid. I wasn't going for RT, I was just going for 60 ft progress....

Im aiming for 7000 RPM shifts.

I misspoke. I meant you would affect your 60...not your RT. Definitely leave your tire pressure the same and practice....practice...practice, get it to stop bogging first...then, alter your tire pressure. Make incremental changes, changing one thing at a time. It may take you several track trips. Practice on the street and make final adjustment at the track because you don't have unlimited time to make changes and runs at the track. Document notes on what you did and what the result was so you're not wasting your time repeating things that don't work. If you don't have a Dragy, buy one.

 

[djcodeman]

I misspoke. I meant you would affect your 60...not your RT. Definitely leave your tire pressure the same and practice....practice...practice, get it to stop bogging first...then, alter your tire pressure. Make incremental changes, changing one thing at a time. It may take you several track trips. Practice on the street and make final adjustment at the track because you don't have unlimited time to make changes and runs at the track. Document notes on what you did and what the result was so you're not wasting your time repeating things that don't work. If you don't have a Dragy, buy one.

did you watch the video? I show dragy slips after each run... Its not that the car is bogging, its unloading the suspension I believe.... but yes , I need more seat time

 

[J17GT]

Practice makes perfect! I've had good luck with 12c 17r, 15psi in the tires and 4700rpm launch. I run the Mickey Thompson ET Street bias 28x11.5x17. You really need a WOT box to get any consistency launching a stick car. I manage 1.5x on most passes with a hint of clutch slip. Even managed a 1.493 60' on a pass!

I basically have all the same IRS /rear suspension mods you do, including BMR drag springs. The front suspension is still totally stock on my car. Here are a few videos:

1.493 60' pass. That's Mike Finnegan in Blashemi in the other lane!


The whipple loves the WOT box:

 

[djcodeman]

Practice makes perfect! I've had good luck with 12c 17r, 15psi in the tires and 4700rpm launch. I run the Mickey Thompson ET Street bias 28x11.5x17. You really need a WOT box to get any consistency launching a stick car. I manage 1.5x on most passes with a hint of clutch slip. Even managed a 1.493 60' on a pass!

I basically have all the same IRS /rear suspension mods you do, including BMR drag springs. The front suspension is still totally stock on my car. Here are a few videos:

1.493 60' pass. That's Mike Finnegan in Blashemi in the other lane!


The whipple loves the WOT box:

Nice! Im putting bmr drag springs in the rear this weekend. Will leave the steeda progressives up front for now.
I still have a stock sealed motors, and am a little hesitant to do a 2 step since most people are doing opg and cs.

 

[J17GT]

Nice! Im putting bmr drag springs in the rear this weekend. Will leave the steeda progressives up front for now.
I still have a stock sealed motors, and am a little hesitant to do a 2 step since most people are doing opg and cs.

I do have OPGs and a crank sprocket in the car, otherwise the engine is totally untouched. Agree it's risky doing a 2-step launch with boost without it.

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