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first time at the track with my Procharged GT

Hoblick

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last weekend was the first time i got to get the car at the track.
little break down on the mods.
Procharger HO kit with D1SC, 12psi at 7200
car made 631 RWHP and 526RWTQ on 93
SW long tubes and MBRP Race
DSS aluminum driveshaft
DSS 1400 half shafts
McLeod RST clutch
MGW shifter
BMR delrin cradle bushings
BMR poly diff bushings
Viking shocks
Eibach Pro Kit springs
race star 17" rear wheels with M&H race master drag radials
its a PP car so 3.73 gears

it was 51 degrees out, and rained the night before, and some sprinkles in the morning, a lot of moisture in the air, track prep was not that great, as our forum rented the track out, and we had maybe 30 cars in attendance.

best pass of the day was 11.33 @ 126 with a 2.0 60'
car spun through 2nd gear every pass.

then the bad part came.
in line to make another pass, pulled into the water box, then proceeded to do my burnout, tires started spinning then went into massive wheel hop as one of the staff guys was yelling at me to shut the car down. so i did. then they brought a bolt up to me that came out of the car. asked me what it was. after seeing it i knew exactly what it was. a diff bolt.

i got the car out of the lanes, and got it on the trailer to get a better look.

the rear bolts that hold the diff to the IRS cradle sheared off, which are 10.9 grade bolts, the front bolts bent. this caused the rear of the diff to sag ALOT. pitching the front of the diff upward, causing the driveshaft to ride high in the back, high enough that the driveshaft ended up getting 2 grooves wore in it from some bracing that is in the rear part of the tunnel. having the diff in the position it was also caused the halfshafts to ride on the IRS cradle, cutting through the inner boots and causing damage to the inner joints.

im unsure of other damage at this point, since i have not been able to get the car torn apart. I'm expecting there to be some internal damage to the diff, but i won't know until i get it out of the car.

i contacted kelly at BMR, said he's seen front bolts shear but never rear bolts. Moving forward ill be installing the aluminum diff bushings which kelly recommended, which i will enlarge the hole in to accommodate 2mm larger diameter bolts, which will be 12.9 grade. i will also have to enlarge the ears of the diff to accommodate this as well. this is after i remove the rest of the bolts that are still in the rear ears of the diff. if the differential has any damage i will be swapping to 3.31 gears, since even with a 28" tall tire i was still having to shift into 5th before the traps.

i also contacted DSS to find out what can be done with my driveshaft and half shafts. ill be sending those back to DSS, and they are gonna retube, and check over the rest of the driveshaft and rebalance it. the half shafts damage are fully unknown at this point because again i haven't gotten a chance to get them out of the car yet, but they are going to inspect them and fix what needs to be fixed.

hoping the damage is limited to those items and i can get everything repaired and back in the car quickly. until then i might have to roll around on the stock DS and halfshafts until they are repaired.

it was a somewhat disappointing day, as i was hoping to come away with a 10 sec pass, but i just didn't have the grip to support it. and end of the day i had a part failure that caused a lot of other parts to get damaged.

here are some pics of the damage.

the diff and mounting points/bushings in the rear
ia0iqgHl.jpg



half shafts laying on the cradle



grooves in the DS
3gtEN2Ol.jpg


diff dropped so much it dented the exhaust


a pic of one of the front bolts for the diff, you can see how bent it is, and its not flush with the bushing


one of the culprit bolts, the other one i couldn't get out because it was hitting the spare tire relief
JrNGhrbl.jpg






here is a video of one of my passes. I'm at the 2:40 mark, yes the guy in the white convertible can't drive. his first RWD car. owned WRXs before that.
[ame]
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Coaster

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My run is at :58 seconds in Hoblicks video.

I was standing at the line during the fatal burnout. It was not a pretty sight. Left shavings all over the burnout area from the drive shaft.
 

sonic

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Do you think a bias ply tire would help absorb some off the drive train shock?
 

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beefcake

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stick car a bias would def help,

radials for an auto
 

GTBOB

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Do you think a bias ply tire would help absorb some off the drive train shock?
Certainly would. Not sure anyone makes a DOT, bias ply drag radial for 17" rims though.
 
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Hoblick

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got my driveshaft sent out to DSS, and they are sending me parts to fix the half shafts. got the difff bushings changed out to solid aluminum, and while i was at it i put in 3.31 gears. I got rid of the drag radials and now have hoosier slicks. just waiting on some parts to arrive so i can put it back together
 

Bartly

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Is it possible that there were some loose fasteners that allowed this to happen?
 

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Hoblick

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Is it possible that there were some loose fasteners that allowed this to happen?
no loose fasteners, the problem aside from being on drag radials in a stick car, is the rear bolts on the BMR poly diff bushings thread into the diff ears. the bolts sheared at the start of the threads. the bushings having some give with the poly bushings created enough movement to shear the bolt, at the weakest point, the start of the threads. the start of the threads on those bolts are right where the diff and bushings meets, so the threads start at a shear point.

the remedy for this would simply be to drill out the threads and run a through bolt with a nut on the back, and make sure no threads are at that shear point. I however decided to move up a bolt size as well, so going to a 16mm diameter bolt instead of a 14mm, as well i will be getting a higher grade bolt, 12.9 instead of the 10.9. this along with the solid bushings, i don't think it should happen again.

but now i just wait on my parts to get here.. until then i can only stare at it on jack stands :mad:
 

Travis@boostworks

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This has happened a lot.. Honestly, we have better luck leaving the bushings alone and just going with a full slick. We have absolutely zero hop and cut 1.4x 60ft times with nothing more than a 28x10" Hoosier slick, half shafts, and a drive shaft.
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