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Fair price for 2019 leftover

Bane022

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Any advice is appreciated. Looking to buy a 2019 Mustang GT premium. I was thinking I could save a decent amount buying a year used but realized the 0% APR special is only for new cars. The dealer told me if I wanted the $2500 rebate I need to finance at standard rate. They offered me $3500 off sticker for this mustang and said it was their best offer. What does everyone think is a reasonable amount off MSRP for a leftover 2019 with the 2021's coming out in a few months. I dont really think 3500 off is that great since its about to be 2 years old. Thank you!!! Im posting the window sticker of the specific car but am open to all advice!!
Screen Shot 2020-08-05 at 8.36.25 PM.png
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LxMike

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Keep looking and they'll come back to you in a few days with a new " better offer".
 
OP
OP

Bane022

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Keep looking and they'll come back to you in a few days with a new " better offer".
Haha youre definitely right. I cant imagine anyone settling for that little off. I've seen new 19 Bullitts in the midwest and Texas advertised for 6k off.
 

Bluezeke

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Koons Baltimore was 9k under msrp back in July of last year. I am sure with COVID you have even more bargaining power.
 

george g

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My 2020 base model out the door with a $3000 negative equity was cheaper than the sticker price.
 

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shogun32

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I would hold out for no less than 20% off MSRP + TTL and aim for 23-25%.
Look for discounted 2020, lots of them out there too.
 

Bluezeke

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Louk

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20% off sticker is a good starting point as others have said. if your serious and are approved and just draw a hard line of what your willing to pay that should be a very doable number. If not show other cars in a few hundred mile radius that are similar and and just say im going to pick this one up.
 

Bluezeke

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It’s prob the opposite right now. Plants shut down so stock is low.

Winter/fall is where the deals will be had this year.
FYI I paid 31.5 for my 2018 301a.


They offered OP 6k off. That car is more expensive than the one he is looking at. My car listed at 41k. I paid 31.5. July 2018.

.
You lost me. At first you said they won’t be offering money off, then you said they would.
My point is, and always has been, Koons is offering quite a bit off msrp. They are worth a look.
 

shogun32

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FYI I paid 31.5 for my 2018 301a.
for 23% off MSRP. Nicely done.
They offered OP 6k off. That car is more expensive than the one he is looking at.
only percentages matter. absolute dollar figures are not useful in any comparison.

.
 

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drive_55_not

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Any advice is appreciated. Looking to buy a 2019 Mustang GT premium. I was thinking I could save a decent amount buying a year used but realized the 0% APR special is only for new cars.
Presuming that one your posting on is new, Ford is offering 0% for 72mo on 2019's in NY or $3250 worth of rebates ,, $2500 standard rebate + $750 old inventory program money.

https://www.ford.com/cars/mustang/2019/pricing-and-incentives/?gnav=vhpnav

Pricing is regional and Ford upped the rebates here in NC Tuesday to 2500 [from 1750] on the 2020 Premium GT's..

I priced a 2020 PP1 MSRP 49,755 at $45,190 OTD. That includes a $737 Stealer "Value" package and a $789 Stealer Admin Fee. That value package is a bit a of a ripoff, Nitrogen filled tires, some kinda interior prep and plastic door guards.

Sadly the rebates are smaller so pricing is nowhere near a good as it was in 2018,


.
 

shogun32

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An optioned out car may depreciate 15-20% off the lot vs a base car that might only depreciate 10% off the lot.
a 1yr old car is typically 30% off MSRP. A Shelby takes 2 years to hit 30% off. A 1 week old car is as a general rule 20% off MSRP if not 25%. That's why you cram as big a chunk of the depreciation hit onto the dealer at time of initial sale.
 

BimmerDriver

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I tried to work with Koons when I was shopping back in April/May, but they were doing the ole' bait and switch, so I told them to stuff it. I went local, paid more, but at least they were (mostly) honest with me.

To the OP: run, don't walk, away from that car. Do you really want something that hasn't been driven (much) in two years, sitting outside in the sun covered in bird poo? And who knows what kind of issues you'll have between flat-spotted tires, dried-up seals and condensation in the engine internals?

I'm being pessimistic, and yes, the car is probably just fine, but you need a serious, big, painful massive discount to justify it. You could do better with a 2020, I'm sure.
 

sk47

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Hello; Here is what I have managed with leftover (at least one model year old) vehicles. I have sometimes gotten 22% off the sticker. These posts started in August which is a bit early. Usually for Detroit July/August use to be the last time you could order a current year model. Not sure about 2020 with the virus.
I usually start shopping in September for leftovers. The import brands can have a different schedule so I go by when they have the new model year on the lot. Shop for a 2020 when they have a 2021 on the lot.
One of two things I try to do is to not allow them to add any fees such as DOC fees to the deal. Had a dealer want to do that. We had a deal number settled and when we got into the paperwork they wanted to add the DOC fee onto the deal. I got up and started to leave. ( note- it helps to already have put the price onto the check if you can pay in full. That way you can say this is what I will pay.)That dealer stopped me from leaving and re wrote the deal so the DOC fee was folded into the final price. They will tell you it is the law that they have to charge everyone a DOC fee which may be true, but they can rewrite the deal.

The other thing is to be ready to walk and often you will have to walk. The dealers may give you a call later. Much depends on if the particular car you want is selling well. The dealers may figure it is better to let you go and hope to have someone else pay more later. I have lost cars that way. Last winter there was a 2019 Bullitt Mustang at a dealership in Bristol TN. I went in and offered them 22% off MSRP. They did not bite. So walking away has worked for me and it has not worked for me. The key is to have a number solid in mind before you go into the dealers shop. If you go in without some sort of number in mind it will be difficult to get away with a good deal.
Those salespeople do it for a living and do it every day. If you have any weakness in your position they will have you confused before long.
In fact this happened to me a week or so ago at a dealership. I had a deal in mind and when they told me it could not be done I made the mistake of not walking away right then. I started talking another number, split the difference sort of thing. Even then they let me walk only to call me the next day and say they would do it. I went back but could not get back to where I really wanted to be. So three trips total and I finally had to walk anyway. Should have taken my own advice and stuck to the number I wanted to begin with. They may not have done it but would have saved the wasted trips and effort. I got caught up by my own desire to have the car and let that desire color the job of making a deal. Getting a deal has to in some ways need to be more important that getting a particular car. It is a tough balance to find. On the one hand you have to want a car strong enough to spend the money but also be willing to walk from it if the deal is not right.

Last thing is more of a problem for most of us and was for me most of my life. It is best to have the money in place before you go into the dealership. That use to be a much better strategy years ago. Now the dealerships want you to finance as they make more money that way. A cash customer is not to their liking now days. Even when I tell them I have the money they still try to talk me into doing a finance. They tell me they can save me say a $1000 if I finance and have even told me I would have to pay for six months. Found out you can pay off the first month if you wish. The six months just yields them more profit.
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