LuciferMustang
Active Member
No kidding? What's your car, I probably have seen it. I'm always finding a reason to hang around there. I'm Ray BTWSmall world! I am in Temecula myself. I've been on their Dyno a few times.
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No kidding? What's your car, I probably have seen it. I'm always finding a reason to hang around there. I'm Ray BTWSmall world! I am in Temecula myself. I've been on their Dyno a few times.
Mines a white 2017 GT California Special with a whipple and E85No kidding? What's your car, I probably have seen it. I'm always finding a reason to hang around there. I'm Ray BTW
What are you making on their dyno?Mines a white 2017 GT California Special with a whipple and E85
I made 752rwhp on 13psi from the whipple Gen 3 this is through the 6R80 Auto.What are you making on their dyno?
Very nice! I believe they stop at 750 to save your engine.I made 752rwhp on 13psi from the whipple Gen 3 this is through the 6R80 Auto.
I was thinking that myself, there would be more evaporation when wet, skewing the cooling of the MAF wire making it think it is ingesting more air than in reality. Unfortunately, like I said earlier, without a tuning device I am SOL until the new one comes in. Just kind of sucks that I was only able to get the one bad start before my device bricked. I have no way of knowing if what I am doing is helping the situation, besides if it audibly runs better.Pulling wet air across the MAF sensor will actually cause it to read incorrectly and will potentially damage it. I ended up replacing mine because it got wet and it would intermittently go into limp mode. I recommend buying a new MAF sensor which should resolve your issue. You can try cleaning it with the cleaner someone else has linked, which is what I was originally going to do, but I didn't want to spray the cleaner on the plastic housing around the sensing element.
So I must have read your original post about the coolant getting on your MAF wrong. Did it actually get into maf tube and the maf itself or just on the outside of the tube and maf?I was thinking that myself, there would be more evaporation when wet, skewing the cooling of the MAF wire making it think it is ingesting more air than in reality. Unfortunately, like I said earlier, without a tuning device I am SOL until the new one comes in. Just kind of sucks that I was only able to get the one bad start before my device bricked. I have no way of knowing if what I am doing is helping the situation, besides if it audibly runs better.
Which MAF did you get? I am assuming a genuine motorcraft part.
It spilled onto the tube with the MAF installed. I first wiped down the tube/top of MAF. I then removed the MAF from the tube and there was a drop at lease that had trickled down the MAF body. This was opposite the hot wire, so I wiped it off. I then just peered down the MAF hole and I did not see any drops that accumulated. I did not remove the MAF tube for inspection, as this was basically the last thing before I was going to start the car. After I did this I immediately started it up.So I must have read your original post about the coolant getting on your MAF wrong. Did it actually get into maf tube and the maf itself or just on the outside of the tube and maf?
Thank you for the full explanation. Have you had time to mess with the car anymore?It spilled onto the tube with the MAF installed. I first wiped down the tube/top of MAF. I then removed the MAF from the tube and there was a drop at lease that had trickled down the MAF body. This was opposite the hot wire, so I wiped it off. I then just peered down the MAF hole and I did not see any drops that accumulated. I did not remove the MAF tube for inspection, as this was basically the last thing before I was going to start the car. After I did this I immediately started it up.
I guess just because I did not see any of the MAF wire does not mean that there was none ever present or had touched it before.
Sweet deal man thanks, seemed way too easy to do and way too cheap but I'll take it! I understand I'll have to clean them periodically, no big deal. I'll get a catch can eventually, just not quite ready for that yet until i get everything mounted and then I'll figure out how i want to route it allYep easy as that! 5 min job.
Donāt forget to gut your PCV on the passenger sideā¦ you can put it back together or order a new one from UPR. Just donāt be scared like @LOL WUT was !Sweet deal man thanks, seemed way too easy to do and way too cheap but I'll take it! I understand I'll have to clean them periodically, no big deal. I'll get a catch can eventually, just not quite ready for that yet until i get everything mounted and then I'll figure out how i want to route it all
Do i just drill out the bottom of the brown thing?Donāt forget to gut your PCV on the passenger sideā¦ you can put it back together or order a new one from UPR. Just donāt be scared like @LOL WUT was !
Canāt answer the plug question unfortunately! I always forget youāre a 15ā¦ the passenger side should be a counter clockwise turn and pull out. Mine had a o-ring at the bottom which I pulled out and a plastic piece and a spring came out. I reinserted the o-ring along with the PCV and called it a day.Do i just drill out the bottom of the brown thing?
and side note, is there any direction or which way these two blue plugs go? I'm sure it's possible i have them 180 out?