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Easy engine setup for 1000hp?

jhatley7

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Well since it says "easy" I would think the easiest thing would be the aluminator plus the SC, if it can handle that power. To sleeve your engine and all that might be the same price but I imagine it would take longer and not really be easier
Ok I guess i'm lost?? It takes the same amount of effort to order my sleeved and o-ringed block with billet rods custom cp pistons and all the bells and whistles to go with it, as it it would an "aluminator". Cost is about the same amount.

Which do you think is the smarter buy?? Which will last longer at a 1000hp?
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stevnoof

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just do whatever burnin4 did and your good to go.
 

pro 5.0

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Ok I guess i'm lost?? It takes the same amount of effort to order my sleeved and o-ringed block with billet rods custom cp pistons and all the bells and whistles to go with it, as it it would an "aluminator". Cost is about the same amount.

Which do you think is the smarter buy?? Which will last longer at a 1000hp?
I think he is referring to the COMPLETE ENGINE ASSY pan to intake for 10K, and not just the short block.
 

jhatley7

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I think he is referring to the COMPLETE ENGINE ASSY pan to intake for 10K, and not just the short block.
Ahh ok, still don't recommend that as an option.
 

pro 5.0

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The rods used in the aluminator are good Manley H beams good for 1200 hp, the pistons are decent but custom ones would be a better option due to upper land thickness. The only plus side to the aluminator is that it's complete pan to intake so you could sell your stock motor to offset some of the cost. If you are shooting for 1000 plus rwhp you should also have all ARP hardware which is not included in the aluminator nor is the billet OPG and CG.
 

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jhatley7

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The rods used in the aluminator are good Manley H beams good for 1200 hp, the pistons are decent but custom ones would be a better option due to upper land thickness. The only plus side to the aluminator is that it's complete pan to intake so you could sell your stock motor to offset some of the cost. If you are shooting for 1000 plus rwhp you should also have all ARP hardware which is not included in the aluminator nor is the billet OPG and CG.
So you still have to crack open the motor? Granted not as hard to do opg-cg as head install. But still pretty easy since the motor is out.
 

pro 5.0

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Actually I may be mistaken on the billet OPG I believe it comes with those but the CG is stock so you would have to crack into it anyways. It would be much easier on the engine stand as opposed to being bent over the front end of the car that's for sure.
 

jhatley7

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I vote for the money 10k, build it and forget.
 

al3x

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I hadn't even thought about possibly selling the original engine too, that would bump down the price considerably, I'd imagine. I wonder how reliable the aluminator would be at 1000 hp though
 

jhatley7

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I hadn't even thought about possibly selling the original engine too, that would bump down the price considerably, I'd imagine. I wonder how reliable the aluminator would be at 1000 hp though

[MENTION=13339]olaosunt[/MENTION] aka Coyote Killer. :cheers:
 

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pro 5.0

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In reality it all comes down to how much money you can afford to throw at it, the aluminator is a good option IMO if you want the least amount of downtime and your on a tight budget. If the stock motor can handle 850 rwhp with cast pistons the aluminator with it's better rods and pistons will surely top that. The stock thin sleeves will still be a problem at higher hp levels, I do have one concern and that is the ring gaps that are in that aluminator. If we are talking about the 11-1 compression engine it's made for NA so the ring gaps should be tighter and if they butt under boost your done.
 

jhatley7

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mustang_guy

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it has an engine!
Haha. No different guy. But he has blown atleast one aluminator.
He's has the worst luck. I'm surprised he's still building either of his GT'S with all the troubles he's had. His thread is staggeringly frustrating and it's not even my cars
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