DYNO numbers

[IvanCRF]

From your first post, you gained 42HP over stock with the few mods you listed. I would be very content with a bump of 42HP!

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[USAF]

how is it the auto's are faster the the manual?

 

[IvanCRF]

A highly skilled manual driver is not readily found.

 

[PrabhtheStig]

2015 A/T
Stock 342rwhp
Tune/JLT 384rwhp :shrug:


WTF am I missing here? Where is the 435? I understand that's crank HP but people have been making ever bit of 380rwhp stock.

Not a happy 15' owner

Alright guys here's where the factory numbers come from. The flywheel. There is something called Drivetrain Power loss and it varies between 15- 20%. meaning you lose that much HP after Exhaust, tires, and everything after engine. If you make 342 stock that is 393HP by factory terms if you are taking 15% into consideration. (342*.15 + 342). If you take 20% into consideration that's 410HP Stock. That is still a but underpowered though. :( Congrats on the gains though.

 

[angermgmt14]

The standard rule of thumb is that you can expect a standard parasitic drivetrain loss of 15% on a manual transmission car, and 20% on an automatic transmission car, although obviously that varies from car to car. A 15% loss would be 369 whp; a 20% loss would be 348 hp. So you're getting right around where you should be.

I learned this lesson with my GTO. I added LT's, full exhaust and tuned it. Was at ~350 hp on the dyno. I was like, huh, and then concluded 20% loss for my A4, (80HP) and figured the tune plus the mods were about correct for the GTO (25-30HP) That's what we get for buying Automatics...lol.

This is why I have been leaning towards the Ecoboost because you seem to get more gains out of the tune itself. Just not convinced on the reliabilty of the 2.3 with the big bump in hp/tq. I'm still on the fence though, so gonna take a few more months and get a 2016 MY, and see how Ecoboosts are holding up with the power increase.

 

[DivineStrike]

I don't know about the auto, but the manual needs to be dyno'd in 5th. About a10 hp difference there. With the higher number in 5th. I will no longer use mustang dyno's. They do not give consistent readings. The mustang dyno I went to said I made under 300whp...went to a typical dynojet to redyno and got more typical numbers.

 

[Mikeiscoo2]

4th

BOOM!!! That's why it's lower the car needs to be dyno'd in 5th gear.

 

[Wolfman625]

Dose seam low. was with a buddy in town when he dynoed his 15 gt manual and made 376 stock and 417whp with Cai tune and catback same day just a few hours later.
But like seed befor alot of things very but autos do tind to have more loss in HP then stick. And the faster thing has alot to do with driver mod

 

[foghat]

Just seeing post people making 380 stock 420 after the CAI/ tune doesn't sit well wit me

Again:
1. Comparing dyno number can be an effort in futility - even though we all do it.
2. Use the dyno to look at the changes in power for YOUR car. That is what they are meant for.
3. Perhaps most importantly in your case: a mustang dyno reads significantly lower than a dynojet. All of those 380ish numbers you are seeing are on dynojets.

If it makes you feel any better, with my 135i I did a same day comparison between a dynojet and and dyno dynamics (they read fairly closely to a mustang). On the dynojet I put down 406/460. On the DD, I put down 357,440

You are fine. Be happy with your gains, they are solid.

BOOM!!! That's why it's lower the car needs to be dyno'd in 5th gear.

He is an auto and I'm not sure that is the case for autos.

 

[foghat]

Dose seam low. was with a buddy in town when he dynoed his 15 gt manual and made 376 stock and 417whp with Cai tune and catback same day just a few hours later.
But like seed befor alot of things very but autos do tind to have more loss in HP then stick. And the faster thing has alot to do with driver mod

Bet dollars to donuts those numbers were on a dynojet and not a mustang.

OP is fine with his numbers. They are quite solid.

 

[cwh19]

As most have said, these cars need dynod in 5th. The objective on a dyno is to use the gear with the closest 1:1 transmission gear ratio. Most cars are 4th but these are exactly 1:1 in 5th.

Numbers are pretty solid otherwise.

 

[foghat]

You can absolutely fudge the clock. It's called driver mod.

It is not so much the e.t. (the clock), but the trap speed that will tell you where you are at hp wise. Trap speed is much, much less dependent on driver mod. Especially with an auto.

 

[Tim Hilliard]

Optional Six-speed automatic with paddle shifters
Gear ratios
First 4.17
Second 2.34
Third 1.52
Fourth 1.14
Fifth 0.87
Sixth 0.69


You do not have a true 1:1 ratio. I rarely comment about chassis dyno numbers because they are a joke. OP get over it, you picked up 42 HP, bring it to a drag strip and see what it runs. You are ok. Honestly some of your responses seem kind of trollish so I hope I'm not wasting my time making you feel better.

Another way to look at it is that the mod's you did made 2HP and the dyno operator tried to make you feel better about your purchase.

Dyno sheets don't win races.

 

[foghat]

As most have said, these cars need dynod in 5th. The objective on a dyno is to use the gear with the closest 1:1 transmission gear ratio. Most cars are 4th but these are exactly 1:1 in 5th.

Numbers are pretty solid otherwise.

Is 5th 1:1 in the auto?

 

[foghat]

Here, this should make you happy.

http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21292

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