Dropped the rear subframe, help and advice needed!

[6g4me]

I dropped the whole sub frame (all bolts removed) and supported the assembly with a jack via the differential. I had no issues.

I was installing springs, shocks, sways, BMR cradle, and Steeda Diff bushings so I pretty much had to.

Be careful with the Steeda alignment bushings, 2 go in front and 2 go in the rear and they are different.

Start with the driver's front. Jack the cradle up and line up this one and start the cradle bolt. Do not tighten, just get it started.

Move to the passenger front and do the same.

Then the driver's rear, lastly passenger rear.

All should just be started which will allow you to pivot the cradle as necessary. I did this all by myself, just used some leverage on the hub assembly depending on which way i needed to move the cradle.

Also, make sure you have released the parking brake. That can cause some bind in the suspension if you have it locked. Also make sure the car is out of gear.

You do not need to remove the springs, but you could remove the shocks if you want. That will allow you to have an easier time pivoting the cradle.

Just remove the top bolts connecting the shocks to the frame.

Good luck.

Ah that might explain why my current alignment bushing isnt sitting flush.I dont want to unbolt the car parts again so I might just grind it down to get it out and then follow the aligntment kit instructions from the top.

I have an auto, so car is in the park gear and my ebrake is on.. time to change that i guess.

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[Commbubba19]

Just a note on above, also make sure to unbolt the sway bar endlinks. That will allow you full movement of the subframe.

I would highly recommend you do not just do the rear bushings. Watch some of the videos on the diff moving under hard acceleration. It pivots upwards and the pivot points is the axles. The front OEM bushings allow upward movement, while the rear bushings allow movement down.

By only adding the rear, you are putting a much greater load on the rear poly/aluminum bushings and bolts while the front is allowed to still rotate upwards.

Just accept you will have to get an alignment if you want the bushings installed.

Undo the shocks/sway bar, put a jack under the diff, and unbolt all 4 cradle bolts. Lower the cradle slowly until you have the clearance. You'll get the most clearance by keeping the rear cradle bolts in place (however loosened as far as possible) and completely removing the front cradle bolts. This will allow you to have the most clearance in the front for the diff bushings.

The passenger side has more clearance than the driver's side.

If you've dropped the exhaust, this should take you less than an hour to do.

I did the above but kept the exhaust in place which was the only time consuming part.

 

[BC]

.......I would highly recommend you do not just do the rear bushings. Watch some of the videos on the diff moving under hard acceleration. It pivots upwards and the pivot points is the axles. The front OEM bushings allow upward movement, while the rear bushings allow movement down.
By only adding the rear, you are putting a much greater load on the rear poly/aluminum bushings and bolts while the front is allowed to still rotate upwards.......

That's a good point about the movement. If the OP wants the Steeda bushings in yes probably he should do both front and rear...whatever it takes to get them in.

I ended up taking mine out and went back to OEM. The high pitched gear whine with the diff bushings in was too much for a daily driver.

All I have now is Steeda rear braces and BMR rear subframe lockout. Good enough for me, not being a car that goes to the track.

 

[Commbubba19]

That's a good point about the movement. If the OP wants the Steeda bushings in yes probably he should do both front and rear...whatever it takes to get them in.

I ended up taking mine out and went back to OEM. The high pitched gear whine with the diff bushings in was too much for a daily driver.

All I have now is Steeda rear braces and BMR rear subframe lockout. Good enough for me, not being a car that goes to the track.

Which diff bushings did you install?

I have the BMR cradle lockout and Steeda red diff bushings and it's quiet.

I get a hint of drivetrain noise at around 50mph but can barely hear it over the exhaust.

I have the BMR aluminum pucks but I decided to go with the steeda poly bushings instead. I figured I'd get a lot more noise with the BMR kit.

 

[BC]

Which diff bushings did you install?
I have the BMR cradle lockout and Steeda red diff bushings and it's quiet.
I get a hint of drivetrain noise at around 50mph but can barely hear it over the exhaust.
I have the BMR aluminum pucks but I decided to go with the steeda poly bushings instead. I figured I'd get a lot more noise with the BMR kit.

I installed the Steeda diff bushings using the red ones. I was happy with the results because even that by itself greatly diminished wheel hop and also got rid of most of the manual trans famous 'thud' sound when shifting.

However with the diff bushings in I had a high pitched gear whine starting about 60 miles per hour, even heard over Borla Exhaust. Mainly with windows up...not much with windows down.

But after a couple of weeks I decided I couldn't go with that. So I removed the Steeda diff bushings and installed the IRS rear brace instead, plus the BMR rear lockout plate over the 2 rear IRS bolts.

The whine went away and the wheel hop is reduced enough for me so I'm happy with the setup now. (The thud returned though...but not as bad as it was...maybe due to the IRS tightened up a little)

 

[6g4me]

Alright guys, so with some trouble (car lifted up still ugh), I cut off half the alignment bushing, took it out, and bolted up the front and rear passenger side bolts.

The subframe is FINALLY bolted back on the car. But it is now misaligned from how it was from the factory (which wasn't perfect anyway) and the two front diff bushings aren't in still.

SO. Question. Before I unbolt the damn thing again to put in the alignment bushings-- How important is it to align the subframe properly with the chassis? Does it matter--will the wheel alignment that's 100% going to follow this ordeal, solve the issues or is there another reason why it's important to align the subframe?

Also, any other ideas on how to put in the front bushing?

It was suggested loosening the rears and unbolting the front--that's what I did the first time around, no luck. Ended up just popping the bolts out by accident.

 

[ScottsGT]

When I lowered mine to install springs, it was off a little from the old markings left in the body from where the factory installed it.
Alignment fixed it. I've read here that a lot of guys had to move the cradle just to get the Steeda Subframe Support Brackets to line up with all the holes.

 

[6g4me]

When I lowered mine to install springs, it was off a little from the old markings left in the body from where the factory installed it.
Alignment fixed it. I've read here that a lot of guys had to move the cradle just to get the Steeda Subframe Support Brackets to line up with all the holes.

Did they have to move the cradle from a properly aligned position (with the alignment bushings) or was it because they weren't properly aligned?

Shoot I haven't even considered that, I hate working with this damn cradle, trying to move it always is a hassle

 

[Racerx009]

I mean this in a very loving way!!!! You should play mechanic if you don't have some or a lot of experience. It can be costly and dangerous to your health and others!!!!
I have the pleasure of living in a town house and my repeated neighbors are Nascar car institute students. I enjoy sitting outside with my beer and cigar and observe them in action. I laugh my ass of because they are clueless and think they know what they are doing. It took 4 of them to do valve cover gaskets on a car. Now I have girl Nascar students they couldn't figure out how to jump start a car. They said they did have that class yet !! Lol

 

[Racerx009]

When I lowered mine to install springs, it was off a little from the old markings left in the body from where the factory installed it.
Alignment fixed it. I've read here that a lot of guys had to move the cradle just to get the Steeda Subframe Support Brackets to line up with all the holes.

When you do the rear springs you do one side at a time so you don't end up with a misaligned subframe.

 

[Racerx009]

Did they have to move the cradle from a properly aligned position (with the alignment bushings) or was it because they weren't properly aligned?

Shoot I haven't even considered that, I hate working with this damn cradle, trying to move it always is a hassle

What the alignment shop did was adjust the wheels to get it aligned But they do not align the subframe for you. So if you were to correct the subframe your alignment would be off again.

 

[Racerx009]

I might have infact have to go this route. I had also seen the pry bar thing in the steeda video..its so easy to miss if youre not looking for it lol but yeah no cigar, couldnt get the clearance from lying under the car to pry it

also pretty sure i filled up to a full tank before starting the job so i have no budge really.

I had contacted Steeda about it earlier (prior to unbolting everything) and they had mentioned that to another way to get the front bolt in would be to unbolt the strap that holds the fuel tank to loosen it and move it out of the way a bit to give enough clearance.

ive never messed with that part of the car and dont know how its hooked up.. the last thing i want is to be under the car and doused in gasoline.

I did all my diff bushings and I installed powerflexusa bushings which have extended tabs on them to fill the voids in the stock bushings. I did the installation on my back in my garage. I removed the front subframe bolts then loosed the back bolts a little bit and with the jack lowered the front. I had to cut one bolt in half to get it out. Their was no need to use a pry bar against the gas tank or loosen the straps. The amount of work you are doing you should just replace the factory bushings.

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