Dropped the rear subframe, help and advice needed!

[6g4me]

Hi all,

Long story short: all my rear subframe bolts are out, and I cant lift the subframe back up without lifting the car, need help

Details below:

While attempting to install Steeda's differential bushings-- to make a long story short-- i ended up unthreading completely all four bolts holding up the subframe :frusty::frusty::frusty::frusty:

I knew that if this happened, things would be pretty bad, and it ended up happening. Before you wonder why I'd ever do this: for the front differential bushings, I didnt have enough clearance to insert them because of the fuel tank.

I kept loosening the rear as much as possible to give me enough room (front bolts are out) but the bolts ended up coming out and my subframe now hangs (its supported by jacks and jackstands currently). For the record, if anyone has the same clearance issue-- this still doesnt give clearance, the rear of the subframe is heavier so it actually tilts back and decreases your clearance.

Anyway, so in attempting to jack the subframe up here are the issues:
1. the front of the subframe can be jacked up, but if bolted up, the rear isnt aligned. Also, while attempting to re-jack up the front, the hole isnt lining up as it did previously. I also have the steeda alignment kit so ideally id like to match up with those bushings.

2. Supports where you can jack up the rear sit alot higher in that I need to place wood under my jack to get it that high, which is actually not too big a problem. However, when jacking the rear, the front of the subframe exerts force on the car and lifts the car off the two rear jackstands that support the body of the car.

3. Currently I have one front bolt in, and everything is misaligned but when trying to jack up the rear of the subframe recently, the car began lifting again off the jackstands-- this time, the front of the subframe is not touching the car at all so I have no idea what is causing this issue.

4. My issue with tilting the rear or front of the subframe too much is that the joint between the driveshaft and the differential starts bending upward or downward and it seems excessive, and honeslty just, scary.

So my question is, overall, my four bolts are off the subframe, how do I jack up the subframe without lifting the car off the main jack stands and get the damn thing bolted back up onto the car? Also what is causing the car to lift? The shocks? Springs? SInce the subframe is completely off, do I need to dissassemble shocks or springs first before I can put it back on-- is that how the car assembly works?

Im so lost. And what sucks is at the end of this, I still wont have the differential bushings in. Someone suggested unbolting the strap on the fuel tank-- questions on that will come in another thread.

ANY THOUGHTS or advice are welcome please! :headbonk:

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[Jay-rod427]

Get the front bolts started back in, but then it will take some persuasion to get the alignment close enough to get the backs started. You will probably have better luck not lifting the whole car if you put the jack under one of the corners to get that corner up enough to get a bolt in. Having all 4 out at the same time is bad, you will need to get it to an alignment shop most likely. Did you also get the subframe alignment bushings?

On the front differential bushings where you trying to put the bushing in first and then put the bolt in? The bolt has to be through the bushing and then put in as one piece to clear the fuel tank.

 

[cop on my back]

Look what I did here http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52515
On the first page there is a picture of the simple wooden support I made to hold the cradle and provide a jacking point. I did have a lot of the parts removed like springs and brakes for weight, so not sure if that would work or not.

Also, when you do get it in, measure the distance from the front of each rear wheel to the fender and get the measurement as close to the same as you can otherwise the car won't track straight.

 

[6g4me]

Get the front bolts started back in, but then it will take some persuasion to get the alignment close enough to get the backs started. You will probably have better luck not lifting the whole car if you put the jack under one of the corners to get that corner up enough to get a bolt in. Having all 4 out at the same time is bad, you will need to get it to an alignment shop most likely. Did you also get the subframe alignment bushings?

On the front differential bushings where you trying to put the bushing in first and then put the bolt in? The bolt has to be through the bushing and then put in as one piece to clear the fuel tank.

I do try and jack up a corner at a time, when i jack the rear corners is when the car starts lifting.

Alignment shop as in wheel alignment or actual subframe alignment? Yes I also have the subframe alignment bushings, I'll be using those though currently its all way out of whack

On the front diff bushing, I tried both ways but still couldnt clear the fuel tank. Its just the driver side too, the passenger side (which I havent done yet, was going to do it after driver side) seems that it will go in just fine following Steeda's instructions.

Steeda gave the idea of undoing the strap for the fuel tank but idk what that entails-- will the whole tank drop? Im not sure

 

[6g4me]

Look what I did here http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52515
On the first page there is a picture of the simple wooden support I made to hold the cradle and provide a jacking point. I did have a lot of the parts removed like springs and brakes for weight, so not sure if that would work or not.

Also, when you do get it in, measure the distance from the front of each rear wheel to the fender and get the measurement as close to the same as you can otherwise the car won't track straight.

Dang thanks, Ill check this out when i get out of work. And ill keep those measurements tips in mind.

Im wondering if when im jacking right now, if the compression on the shocks or springs are causing the car to lift? Im not sure what else could be doing it. One of my thoughts was maybe I do in fact have to remove the springs/shocks first-- I was looking for car assembly videos for any hints but no cigar .-.

 

[Jay-rod427]

Yes you will need a 4 wheel alignment after dropping all 4 bolts, and adding the alignment bushings. The suspension aligned from the factory has likely moved with adding the alignment bushings, and shifting the subframe. The subframe was likely not perfectly centered when it was aligned, but now that is centered with the bushings the suspension geometry has likely moved.

I got my diff bushings in by removing front 2, and loosening the rear 2 a few turns.

 

[cop on my back]

Yes you will need a 4 wheel alignment after dropping all 4 bolts, and adding the alignment bushings. The suspension aligned from the factory has likely moved with adding the alignment bushings, and shifting the subframe. The subframe was likely not perfectly centered when it was aligned, but now that is centered with the bushings the suspension geometry has likely moved.

I got my diff bushings in by removing front 2, and loosening the rear 2 a few turns.

I used a vernier caliper to align mine but took it to a shop to get an alignment anyway and they said it was so close to perfect they wouldn't do anything. I can be done on your own.

 

[BmacIL]

You might need to remove the springs to get all four bolts started/most of the way in. From there you can put the rear springs back in with it still loose/dropped a bit.

 

[wireeater]

When you're done, do you want to come help me with mine?

 

[cop on my back]

You might need to remove the springs to get all four bolts started/most of the way in. From there you can put the rear springs back in with it still loose/dropped a bit.

I agree with this for sure, very likely your issue.

 

[RevvdMedia]

I have no further advice to offer regarding alignment, but I can suggest you DO NOT force the bolts in if they're not going. I stripped one of mine and had to take it in to get it fixed (didn't want to drop the whole subframe myself to tap it out...lol).

That was a 700 dollar mistake (including alignment...)

 

[ScottsGT]

It's totaled.



Now I would only say that after you got sound advise!

 

[6g4me]

Yes you will need a 4 wheel alignment after dropping all 4 bolts, and adding the alignment bushings. The suspension aligned from the factory has likely moved with adding the alignment bushings, and shifting the subframe. The subframe was likely not perfectly centered when it was aligned, but now that is centered with the bushings the suspension geometry has likely moved.

I got my diff bushings in by removing front 2, and loosening the rear 2 a few turns.

Yeah that didnt work for me, removing the front two and loosening the rear still didnt give enough clearance which is how i ended up in this predicament sigh

You might need to remove the springs to get all four bolts started/most of the way in. From there you can put the rear springs back in with it still loose/dropped a bit.

ah. so. now, how to go about that.. i need to rent the spring compressor tool? or just take out the strut?

also, what makes you think that-- is keeping the springs whats making my car also get lifted when jacking? just curious, trying to make this a learning experience ha

When you're done, do you want to come help me with mine?

oh i promise you im going to help anyone if i figure this out

It's totaled.



Now I would only say that after you got sound advise!

haha dont scare me.

 

[6g4me]

You might need to remove the springs to get all four bolts started/most of the way in. From there you can put the rear springs back in with it still loose/dropped a bit.

Actually I just watched the CJPP vid on installing springs (eibach pro kit) and theyre able to put the springs back on and then bolt up the subframe, so wouldnt that mean i should be able to bolt up my subframe without removing the springs?

Or is it because i dropped it so far.. so I would have to take out the spring, bolt everything back up, then probably follow the CJPP instructions to unbolt the front and rear of one side to put in the spring?

 

[6g4me]

I agree with this for sure, very likely your issue.

I just went through those first two pages your thread, amazing job and the one post that says you got the cradle back in with some grunting...is basically what i need to know how to do.

I see the wooden support, making that might help me for sure in jacking it up along a central location instead, but you had your springs on before bolting the car back up right? So why do i need to take my springs out?

It seems like for me to put that one front diff bushing in i might have to take this cradle down as well ugh. But lets assume I dont and I just want ot at least bolt it all back up for now, how would I go about it step by step.. i know it might be asking alot but just wondering.

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