Dropped a piece of glove on an intake valve.......

[Chomorro]

Use caution with the bolt extractors. They tend to break more often than they work and they're near impossible to drill out once that happens. I hate the goddamn things.

Center drill a pilot hole dead center then drill out and retap is the way I'd go with that one.

I examined the other bolts on this manifold and they were all at the point of snapping. Looks like they were stretching the threads. So if I can figure out how to pop these out. I will be replacing them all.

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

How about trying some high temp epoxy on the manifold crack?

 

[Chomorro]

How about trying some high temp epoxy on the manifold crack?

That's the plan if I can remove the bolts. Anyone know what size bolts these are? I know they are m8.

 

[Chomorro]

Figured out what I did wrong. The instructions I was following said 160 inch ft lbs. After now researching it on multiple other threads its 106 inch lbs and most say 100 inch lbs. What a stupid mistake....

 

[Whitest Russian]

Do you mean to say inch-lbs or foot-lbs? Inch foot-lbs aren't a thing as far as I know.

 

[Chomorro]

Do you mean to say inch-lbs or foot-lbs? Inch foot-lbs aren't a thing as far as I know.

Yes inch lbs sorry.

 

[Dfeeds]

Given these bolts have a low torque value, those methods are more likely to work. But I don't necessarily disagree. In my experience drilling is always the easiest and fastest ways. Extractors almost never work it seems like, and when they break, it makes it 100x harder.

I will confess that my experience stems from rusted bolts. So a new bolt, over torqued, may be much easier. And yeah, I've been down that road. It was the same scenario as the OP, actually. The extractor broke so I moved to a drill bit and that also snapped. Expensive little bastard too. I cut my losses, ripped off the heads (e7 heads, windsor 302) and bought a cheap set of gt40p heads on ebay. The way we learn haha.

I also overtorqued an upper IM so tight that it split in two. I was having drivability issues so I pulled the upper IM to check the gasket and a 1/4 of it stayed on the lower IM. Oops.

 

[Dfeeds]

This is what I'm working with.

Examining where the snapped bolt was I also noticed a hairline crack. Its outside the gasket area so it shouldn't affect anything but maybe I should buy another manifold now. Blah

Eh, you have options. It's not a siezed rusted bolt which is a plus. It's definitely a soft metal considering how easily it sheared off. I'd recommend drilling it. You'd use a small punch to make a hole for the bit, then center a left handed bit and start drilling. The idea is for it to bite and pull the bit out enough for you to grab it. The bolt not being siezed will make this 50x easier than if it weren't.

 

[WildHorse]

That doesn't look too bad. See if you can move it with a screwdriver.

 

[Chomorro]

Thanks for all the help everyone! I let it soak in some PB blaster and just used different size flat heads until it came completely out.

Also swapped every bolt that I over torqued to my old manifold bolts.

Now to try this again....... I might torque to 86 inch lbs. I'm a little nervous this time.

 

[ice445]

Thanks for all the help everyone! I let it soak in some PB blaster and just used different size flat heads until it came completely out.

Also swapped every bolt that I over torqued to my old manifold bolts.

Now to try this again....... I might torque to 86 inch lbs. I'm a little nervous this time.

Use your arm cannon, snug it up haha. Torque wrenches imo are tricky with low torque values. You have to be impeccably smooth with your arm to avoid bouncing the wrench. I just go by feel generally but Its up to you.

 

[Chomorro]

Use your arm cannon, snug it up haha. Torque wrenches imo are tricky with low torque values. You have to be impeccably smooth with your arm to avoid bouncing the wrench. I just go by feel generally but Its up to you.

Worse that could happen is it's too loose and I get CEL and vacuum leak I would assume. And at that point I could retighten.

Hmmmm maybe I will just do that

 

[Mdtaylorjr]

Yea most professional mechanics don't actually torque many things. With the exception if head gaskets and wheels we typically go by feel. When I installed my new manifold I ran them down to touching with with my screw gun then used a 1/4" ratchet in 3 passes to actually tighten them.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

Yea most professional mechanics don't actually torque many things. With the exception if head gaskets and wheels we typically go by feel. When I installed my new manifold I ran them down to touching with with my screw gun then used a 1/4" ratchet in 3 passes to actually tighten them.

After repairing cars for over 21 years, I know what I need to use a torque wrench on and what I don’t. I also know what a bolt feels like right before it breaks. Anything internal to the engine should absolutely be torqued. External, well that depends. TTY should be torqued. BUT, you gotta have the right spec.

 

[spedy7]

At least you weren't like my co-worker and mistook ft-lbs for in-lbs and did the same thing on an F150. Luckily the remainder of the bolt wasn't tight and could be backed out.

Sponsored