Driver's window will not go back up intermittently.

[pyrophilus]

Are you going to continue using a pressure washer around the doors/windows? I wonder what kind of water volume and pressure that assembly was made to withstand?

My using the pressure washer wasn't the cause of it. It did this after a rain as well. The pressure washer seems to help re-creating the issue.

The water does bother me, but I checked the inside of the door and I don't see any other water and/or rust spots.

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[K4fxd]

The fix for window crap is to fill the plug with dielectric grease.

I did it on my passenger side just as a preventive measure. Driver side went nuts.

 

[Elp_jc]

I don't see how a pressure washer can create that problem. Water goes down the window seals whether you're using a hose, it's raining, or using a pressure washer. Unless you're aiming the wand downward (pointing to the floor), directly onto the window seal, it shouldn't matter. I hit the window with the pressure washer at around 90 degrees, so the water is going to do down the window just like with a hose. I don't wash my car often, and when I do I don't open the windows until the next day (so they don't streak), and I park the car in the garage, so maybe it gets dry by then. Or like somebody said, maybe some of those connectors seal better than others. Do they have a rubber seal or not? If not, that's the problem.

 

[K4fxd]

It's a design problem.

Dielectric grease. If you are not capable of doing your own repairs give your dealer 20 dollars more to add dielectric grease to the plug when they replace the window motor. Replacing the motor is unnecessary.

 

[pyrophilus]

It's a design problem.

Dielectric grease. If you are not capable of doing your own repairs give your dealer 20 dollars more to add dielectric grease to the plug when they replace the window motor. Replacing the motor is unnecessary.

I fixed it myself, the hardest part was removing thr for panels as the '15's panel clips/pegs were a lot easier to pull off.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2019-window-malfunction-fixed.152603/#post-3112090

 

[4leghorse]

I had my '19 GT for two days now, obviously I drove it almost every single second I had a change (which means I spent more time in my car than I did inside my house)...

Everything worked perfectly (including the 4.5 hour drive after I picked up the vehicle and driving it back home).

Last night, I was about to do a Sync 3.4 update, and before I even started the update, I noticed that the driver's window wouldn't go up. I had it cracked open about 1/2", and then as I was going to plug the USB in, I decided to pull up on the window. It didn't move up, but when I pull the switch up all the way and release, it would not go up, but would do the 1/4" drop that it does at the top like you are opening the door. It would do this over and over and keep creeping the window down everytime I tried to pull up on the window.

The window goes down perfectly fine. It just won't comes back up, and it does the little 1/4" drop everytime I try to pull the switch up.

I did the sync update anyway, in the cold (34º), and then after the sync update, it reset sync, and I turned off my car, open/close door, and then turn it back on. Lo and behold, I try pulling window switch up, and the window does come up! I tried open/closing window multiple times, double checked that it works fine, then turned vehicle off.

I got out this morning (28ºF), and started car, left it idling until engine and interior was warm, and then drove to work 7min away. As I pull into the parkinglot, a colleague waved hi, so I cracked my window open and said hello. I pull into my parking spot and then...

Window is not going up again...
I turned the car off, and locked it (even double pressed lock on remote), walked away for 15 min, came back later, and no joy. Now it's sitting in the parkinglot with the drive's wiindow wide open...

If anyone has a quick idea, I would really appreciate it, as closed window would be a good thing for me. Thank you.

-Sage

I had something similar I happen to me and my dealer had to replace the motor in the door and it fixed it my window would crack and not go completely back up or would spaz and go up and down that 1/4.

 

[pyrophilus]

I had something similar I happen to me and my dealer had to replace the motor in the door and it fixed it my window would crack and not go completely back up or would spaz and go up and down that 1/4.

I think what K4Fxd said is correct. When dealer replaces the motor, they put dielectric grease on the connector, which I think is the actual cause of the problem.

I guess in their defense, if the switch was erratic from water related shorting, there may have been a lot of motor actuations (that we don't see)... and I guess Ford could not say no if they say the motor should be replaced.

As for my car, not a single problem after I did my repair, but I guess the real test is today as it has been raining for 12 hours. I am hoping to check it later when it stops (another 3 hours).

 

[pyrophilus]

So when I checked the battery (15 hours after trickle charging), the resting voltage of the battery is only 12.31V.

I turned the engine on and I get 14.7V at the battery posts, so alternator seems to be healthy.
I turn the engine off and the voltage immediately dropped to 12.30V.

It would be nice if:
1. People with the lock problem would post what their voltage is at the battery posts.
2. People w/o the door lock problem could run a voltmeter across the battery posts (engine off) and tell me if 12.3V is normal?

I always thought a healthy battery should be between 12.40-12.60V.

 

[Bikeman315]

So when I checked the battery (15 hours after trickle charging), the resting voltage of the battery is only 12.31V.

I turned the engine on and I get 14.7V at the battery posts, so alternator seems to be healthy.
I turn the engine off and the voltage immediately dropped to 12.30V.

It would be nice if:
1. People with the lock problem would post what their voltage is at the battery posts.
2. People w/o the door lock problem could run a voltmeter across the battery posts (engine off) and tell me if 12.3V is normal?

I always thought a healthy battery should be between 12.40-12.60V.

Maybe your battery isn't that healthy.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r/advice/car-maintenance/car-battery-voltage-range

WHAT IS THE IDEAL CAR BATTERY VOLTAGE YOU CAN HAVE?
Measuring your car battery’s voltage can be a great way to determine how charged your battery might be. The ideal car battery voltage range will provide you with a relevant interval according to which you can measure precisely what the voltage says about the battery’s current charge. A perfect voltage with the engine running is between 13.7 and 14.7V. With the engine off, you should get a reading of 12.6 volts. If the battery isn’t fully charged, it will diminish to 12.4V at 75%, 12V when it’s only operating at 25%, and down to 11.9V when it’s completely discharged. This data and the way it relates to the design of your battery should provide you with some useful insight into the functioning capacity of your car battery.

 

[pyrophilus]

Maybe your battery isn't that healthy.

That's what I am suspecting. The car is 1 year old, so I am guessing that if the battery isn't healthy it should be either covered by warranty and/or pro-rated. I have to bring it in to dealer next wed, so I will ask them to check the battery.

It would be great if anyone with a Mustang can just check and see what the resting voltage of the battery is. The motorcraft battery that comes with these Mustangs aren't the best batteries I realize.

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