Drive mode toggles?

[DickR]

There isn't a way to do that. It'll start in Normal no matter what you do.

You can change the steering feel in Normal (default) mode. Can't get the firmer suspension w/o changing modes. There's no way to change throttle response w/o changing modes unless you go aftermarket.

For some reason in the 18+ you can no longer be in Sport mode and change the steering feel. It stays in Sport for all modes except Normal & Wet.

I know this is the case with MagneRide. Does yours have MagneRide and if not does it have the PP1?

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[Stangnut]

Both PP1 and Magnaride. So If I didn't have Magnaride I could change the steering feel when in Sport mode?

 

[Rock&Roll]

Sport mode is where all fun is for me.

 

[Ghost50]

Both PP1 and Magnaride. So If I didn't have Magnaride I could change the steering feel when in Sport mode?

I will double check today but I am pretty sure I can on mine. I am 19GT PP1 non-magnaride.

I always have my steering in sport (haven't changed it since I bought it) and then I always drive in sport.

 

[Ghost50]

The only change in throttle response between modes is going from wet/ cold mode to any other mode. Otherwise, I don’t sense any difference in mine.

Mine has a noticeable difference between the modes. Especially in sport vs normal or drag vs normal

 

[Spork3245]

Track mode is so much better than sport+, IMO. I really wish there was a way to configure in MyMode to have Track driving, Track Magnaride, with traction control and lane keep assist still enabled. I’d use it all the time.

 

[2slow]

If you don't have a noticeable increase in throttle response going from Normal to Sport you might want to take your car in for service.That's one of the main changes between the 2 modes.

Maybe it’s because my car is a MT- 82 car. But seriously don’t find the modes to “substantially” improve the performance. Don’t get me wrong, the car feels strong, not like my old 03’ Cobra strong but still fun to drive. Just no real discernible kick in the pants Gain in performance.

 

[DickR]

AFAIK from stock tune data I've seen posted from tuners, etc. is the more "responsive" drive modes don't make the engine more powerful at full throttle. They simply open the actual throttle sooner for a given amount of gas pedal movement. Full throttle, therefore, happens "sooner" relative to pedal movement. This was a common technique manufacturers used with mechanical throttle linkages to make a car "feel" faster.

Anyone have any actual data contrary to this for the stock tune?

Note I fully realize that the drive modes change the automatic transmission shift calibration which is another reason a car may feel more responsive in sport, track, or drag modes.

Thanks,

 

[2slow]

You mean to 03 cobra with a full second slower 0-60 and 2 second slower 1/4 mile?

LOL- Intake, pulley, exhaust, tune for mine. Really what I meant by my previous post is, the cobra had all the torque down low which may not be a whole lot faster, but certainly “felt” allot better down low around town.

 

[2slow]

Got it, but what happens when you add FI to a coyote?

Hmm, it produces the typewriter tick?

I kid I kid... love my 2018.

 

[808muscle]

Got it, but what happens when you add FI to a coyote?

Its becomes an entirely new beast!! Without daily drag radials your just doing your best to control wheel spin every time you drive it with any stab of the throttle. Marginal throttle stabs produce gobs of torque to propel you through traffic.....its awesome.

 

[GregP27]

I watched a video of one of the pedal boxes and I believe you cannot replicate the same response from pushing the pedal harder. The video clearly showed a stock throttle body and the stock tuning, connected to a throttle body using the stock electronics and then with the pedal box.

Yes, it opened to the same position when the pedal was pushed harder, but it also did so MUCH more slowly than with the pedal box. The difference was the rate of opening, not the final position of the throttle body plate.

As a long-time hot rodder, the quicker the plate opens, the better the response. Ask any drag racer who has used carburetors. I'll drive mine stock, when it is delivered that is, for awhile but probably WILL get a box for better throttle response when it is broken in. If you need economy mode, they all have one and it basically turns off the gain or makes it even slower to open.

Please don't tell me it doesn't need a break-in. Been building engines WAY to long to believe that one. :-)

Oh, and it doesn't have the horsepower to reach redline in 6th gear. The drag is too high in 6th to even maintain speed when shifting into 6th at the highest speed in 5th. The engine is below the best torque curve.

Let's say you have a manual, PP1 with 3.73 gears and stock tires.. If you shift at 7,000 rpm, you'll be at 155 mph. If your shift is "instantaneous," you'll immediately be at 4,550 rpm in 6th, and your HP drops off right at best torque rpm (4,600). I'd expect it to slow down at that point. If you look at the chart for the 2019 Coyote, shifting at 7,000 rpm you will be at about 460 HP and about 340 lb-ft of torque. When it drops to 4,550, after the shift, you'll be at about 345 HP immediately and near 400 lb-ft of torque. Those numbers are curiously close to the same number I used to get from my 2002 Camaro SS, 6-speed manual.

I'd estimate the drag at 155 mph in the Mustang to be more than either the power or torque available in stock condition could overcome, and the torque only drops off from there. The 2002 Camaro I used to have needed more than 450 Hp (up from 325 or so stock) to get past 160 mph. The Mustang in 2019 is cleaner ... maybe, but not by all that much.

Cheers.

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