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Do you have audio questions?

MidwayJ

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For the most part, just speaker swaps are not successful in these cars. Most say that the sound quality and loudness levels declined. This is likely because the impedance of the stock speakers are lower than aftermarket. If you are not replacing amps at the same time it isn't worth it.
The factory stuff was tuned to the factory Pioneer drivers, not to mention the impedance difference that theoretically cuts your power in half.

Save your money until you can do it right. In the long run you'll be happier.
I get this but what about replacing tweeters only as a first step since they don't draw much power? I'd like to add some clarity to the highs right away since it will probably be awhile before I devote the time and money needed for adding an amp and speakers.
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rum_punch_ruby

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bought a set of Focal tweeters and they come with included crossover wiring. should i use the included crossover wiring that came with these or are they not needed?
 

Jetnoise

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I've been a member of this forum for approx 5 months now, there seems to be a few people on the forum that I've seen answer audio questions in a comprehensive manner. that is awesome because that is the purpose of these fourms. If ypu have questions I am certain the can be answered here effectively!

A little background on me. I have been in the Audio industry for the better part of 20 years. I have been a DIY installer, I've installed for a couple shops in my area in my early 20s, and I still help people in my spare time. I've been an area rep for Digital Designs, and ARPA (ARPA makes Zapco). I am also a certified IASCA judge and competitor. For IASCA I am certified to judge based on installation as well as sound quality of an install. I have also been MECP certified to the advanced level in the past.

As I said earlier there are a few other guys that seem to know what they are doing. If there are audio questions feel free to shoot them on the forum as you can feel confident that myself or one of the other knowledgeable members will point you in the right direction.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

Would a recommended best practices build by budget be possibly be recommended.

Sorry if it's been covered already. This section of the forum makes to many hours of my life pass by....no offense to anyone.

....With bands of say 3-400 bucks or so +\-
maybe in chunks
Step 1
Stage 2
nUmber C
positive and incremental steps where each step in its own right is worthy of the effort but step one is first then step 2 etc. or is that just the wrong way to go about upgrading a system?
I can't throw or right now justify throwing big money at it (no refund and big tax bill)
 

Vicr

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I've been a member of this forum for approx 5 months now, there seems to be a few people on the forum that I've seen answer audio questions in a comprehensive manner. that is awesome because that is the purpose of these fourms. If ypu have questions I am certain the can be answered here effectively!

A little background on me. I have been in the Audio industry for the better part of 20 years. I have been a DIY installer, I've installed for a couple shops in my area in my early 20s, and I still help people in my spare time. I've been an area rep for Digital Designs, and ARPA (ARPA makes Zapco). I am also a certified IASCA judge and competitor. For IASCA I am certified to judge based on installation as well as sound quality of an install. I have also been MECP certified to the advanced level in the past.

As I said earlier there are a few other guys that seem to know what they are doing. If there are audio questions feel free to shoot them on the forum as you can feel confident that myself or one of the other knowledgeable members will point you in the right direction.

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Silver550

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oops I accidentally posted in another thread, I think this one is the right place.

Hello,
I was going to install a speakers and sub a while ago but things kept coming up. I am now ready to do the install, I just have a couple of questions.
1. would it be ok to not run a dsp after deleting the stock dsp via ForScan?
2. what speakers should i run the sub signal from, (front/ rear)? would I get phone call voices from the subs if I were to get the signal from rear speakers pre amp?
 

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ahl395

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oops I accidentally posted in another thread, I think this one is the right place.

Hello,
I was going to install a speakers and sub a while ago but things kept coming up. I am now ready to do the install, I just have a couple of questions.
1. would it be ok to not run a dsp after deleting the stock dsp via ForScan?
2. what speakers should i run the sub signal from, (front/ rear)? would I get phone call voices from the subs if I were to get the signal from rear speakers pre amp?
@Silver550

1. Its perfectly fine to not run a DSP. A DSP is fully optional. It gives you more features and adjustability but its not required.

2. Most people run it off the rears since it's right there and easy to get to. Phone calls only go through the front speakers so you wont have an issue with that either.
 

Xavierviana

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Hi all,

My driver side low front speaker is bad. (Rattles) I think its 6.5 inch speaker.

I would like to replaced it, any recommendation?


(Mustang gt premium 2015, 9 speakers/ no subwoofer)

Thanks.


Xv
 

Vicr

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Hi all,

My driver side low front speaker is bad. (Rattles) I think its 6.5 inch speaker.

I would like to replaced it, any recommendation?
Morel Maximo Ultra 602 Coax is what I'll be replacing mine with.


(Mustang gt premium 2015, 9 speakers/ no subwoofer)

Thanks.


Xv
 

Xavierviana

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Thanks..

I though the front low speaker had to be 2ohms. Is that correct?
 

Vicr

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Thanks..

I though the front low speaker had to be 2ohms. Is that correct?
Yes.
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6-1/2" 2-way speakers (2-ohm) These are 2ohm. $179.00 pr.
 

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Xavierviana

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Yes.
Kicker 42PSC652
6-1/2" 2-way speakers (2-ohm) These are 2ohm. $179.00 pr.
Thanks for the reply.

I see members on this forum replacing the front low speakers and the factory speakers state that its 4ohm..

So im really confused if its 2 ohm or 4 ohm..

I have the 9 premium speakers. (No sub)

Let me know. Thanks.
 

Silver550

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ok, couple more q's!

Thanks for everyone who has been helping out, I really appreciate it.

1. from my understanding if you run a a dsp, you have to run your speakers active, meaning no component crossovers and each speaker to its own ch. for example I purchased the RF DSR1, and noticed that its an 8ch out. In my 9 spkr car, would I not run the rears? Ch 1,2 for tweets, ch 3,4 for 3.5's, and ch 5,6 for front 6.5, and ch 7,8 sub. Would it be ok to not run the rears? If I wanted to run the rears how would I do it?
 

Canoman

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ok, couple more q's!

Thanks for everyone who has been helping out, I really appreciate it.

1. from my understanding if you run a a dsp, you have to run your speakers active, meaning no component crossovers and each speaker to its own ch. for example I purchased the RF DSR1, and noticed that its an 8ch out. In my 9 spkr car, would I not run the rears? Ch 1,2 for tweets, ch 3,4 for 3.5's, and ch 5,6 for front 6.5, and ch 7,8 sub. Would it be ok to not run the rears? If I wanted to run the rears how would I do it?
You can run without rears, without problem. If you want rears, you can run the fronts passive, you just can't get the level of time correction that you can if you run active. You could still use it to EQ the speakers and whatnot.
 

POJ 1

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I have my ipod plugged in to the socket in the compartment between the seats
After I receive a telephone call and the ipod has been playing, the ipod source square on the audio screen disappears and I can't resume playing the ipod
Iv'e checked all the connections and they all seem fine and even tried plugging the ipod into the socket in front of the gear shift but still nothing?????
 

ahl395

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Thanks for the reply.

I see members on this forum replacing the front low speakers and the factory speakers state that its 4ohm..

So im really confused if its 2 ohm or 4 ohm..

I have the 9 premium speakers. (No sub)

Let me know. Thanks.
A 4 ohm speaker will still work. It will have more resistance so the factory amp wont be able to put as much power through it, so on paper that would make it less loud. However depending on the efficiency and the fact that it will be a higher quality speaker in general, that may not always be the case. If your running the factory amp personally I would stick to 2 ohm though. If running an aftermarket then go to the standard 4 ohm as you wont be using the factory amp anymore anyway.

ok, couple more q's!

Thanks for everyone who has been helping out, I really appreciate it.

1. from my understanding if you run a a dsp, you have to run your speakers active, meaning no component crossovers and each speaker to its own ch. for example I purchased the RF DSR1, and noticed that its an 8ch out. In my 9 spkr car, would I not run the rears? Ch 1,2 for tweets, ch 3,4 for 3.5's, and ch 5,6 for front 6.5, and ch 7,8 sub. Would it be ok to not run the rears? If I wanted to run the rears how would I do it?
You could not run rears, but by far I would chose to not run the center speaker. 8 channels would accommodate all the speakers. The subwoofer needs less adjustments and time alignment anyway, so I would run the sub independently and not interfaced with the DSP. Let the amp control the crossover. You'll hear a bigger difference with the DSP on the highs than you will on a sub. Rear speakers arent very important for the actual sound quality, most of that comes from the fronts, but I like having them for the surround sound feel.
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