DIY for rotor replacement?

[MaskedRacerX]

What I meant was that it doesn't make sense that the PP and non PP caliper torque is different. The caliper is the same other than the finish.

Yeah, it looks like maybe there's some mix up in the caliper vs. bracket vs. non-PP vs. PP.

I totally blew off starting this today - drank lots of beer, wrote some code, finished up Ray Donovan S4, played XBox with the little G

... so maybe we can get the right values confirmed in the next few days.

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[Evo_Rob]

What I meant was that it doesn't make sense that the PP and non PP caliper torque is different. The caliper is the same other than the finish.

It lists them differently as with performance pack and standard. It might be for the GT350 and R. Either way, here's the screen shots from the manual

 

[5ABI VT]

Super duper easy. I could probably do it for you in 2 minutes per side if you were close. 2 bolts and as mentioned earlier a dead blow if needed on the rotor will move it and it slides off. I have 55k on my 15 GT and driven daily through 2 winters and they come off easy. Just pulled them off to touch up the hubs a few days ago.

 

[BmacIL]

It lists them differently as with performance pack and standard. It might be for the GT350 and R. Either way, here's the screen shots from the manual

That last shot is of the GT350/R rear calipers. First two are for everything else. All GTs have the same rears.

 

[Evo_Rob]

That last shot is of the GT350/R rear calipers. First two are for everything else. All GTs have the same rears.

Got it. I only zoned in on the Performance Pack of the index lol

 

[MaskedRacerX]

OK, so to clarify, on the rear:

- Caliper [to bracket] bolts are 24lb/ft
- Bracket bolts are 129 lb/ft

I'm about to jack up one of the rear corners, can you reach the bracket bolts without having to remove the caliper (from the bracket)?

I guess I'll have my own answer in about 5 minutes

 

[JuRuKi]

Hardest part for me was getting the front rotors lose. I damaged one of them from hitting it too hard. Everything else was relatively easy.

 

[Evo_Rob]

OK, so to clarify, on the rear:

- Caliper [to bracket] bolts are 24lb/ft
- Bracket bolts are 129 lb/ft

I'm about to jack up one of the rear corners, can you reach the bracket bolts without having to remove the caliper (from the bracket)?

I guess I'll have my own answer in about 5 minutes

You can physically poke them with your finger but I don't think you can remove the whole thing at one lol. And yes, after reviewing everything, those are the right specs lol

 

[GTP]

BTW, I didn't see anyone confirm, a little blue Loctite on the caliper bolts, or no need? I'll be reusing them this one time.

In general you can simply follow what you see on the factory bolt. If there is blue in the threads, then use some again. If not, then not. However, on these critical function parts, you may as well. It is not hard at all to break blue threadlock free.

BTW, I get mine in a small bottle for only $2 at Harbor Freight.

 

[plc268]

In general you can simply follow what you see on the factory bolt. If there is blue in the threads, then use some again. If not, then not. However, on these critical function parts, you may as well. It is not hard at all to break blue threadlock free.

BTW, I get mine in a small bottle for only $2 at Harbor Freight.

It's also good practice to clean the old threadlocker off. A quick wipe with a wire brush before you add new threadlock will do the trick.

 

[Norm Peterson]

The bolts are TTY bolts. They're supposed to be discarded after removal but I've reused mine the couple of times I've pulled them and no issue.

There is a difference between TTY and one-time-use bolts.

TTY bolts get a torque spec plus a further "turn of the bolt/nut" spec that generates the appropriate amount of bolt stretch.

One-time-use fasteners have some method of self-locking and only get a torque spec.


Norm

 

[Evo_Rob]

There is a difference between TTY and one-time-use bolts.

TTY bolts get a torque spec plus a further "turn of the bolt/nut" spec that generates the appropriate amount of bolt stretch.

One-time-use fasteners have some method of self-locking and only get a torque spec.


Norm

Close, your first statement describes a TTA (torque to angle) or TTT (torque turn to tighten) bolt. Regardless, both are considered "discard after use" bolts due to design of bolts.

http://wbtools.com.au/how-to-understand-angular-torque-and-torque-to-yield/
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2001/02/threaded-fasteners-torque-to-yield-and-torque-to-angle/
https://www.norbar.com/en-us/News-Events/Blog/entryid/393/torque-and-angle-explained
[ame]
[ame]

 

[Norm Peterson]

Close, your first statement describes a TTA (torque to angle) or TTT (torque turn to tighten) bolt. Regardless, both are considered "discard after use" bolts due to design of bolts.

Fair enough, my swing-and-a-miss / strike-one. Thanks for the links.

What I was trying to say (and missed) was that one-time use can be due to reasons other than TTY/TTA/TTT. Obviously a bolt that's been stressed to the brink of significant plastic behavior should not ever be used again (unless you need yet another conversation-piece paperweight).


Norm

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Picture in the what did you do recently thread, looks fantastic. I spent a bunch of time really cleaning up the hubs with a wire brush on a drill and some light sandpaper work. Put a good coat of anti-seize on too (for the next time).

Can't complain about the price, these were pretty much just for a cosmetic fix, the old rotors looked so bad, and at $225 to my door, and a little time, I'm pretty happy.

In general you can simply follow what you see on the factory bolt. If there is blue in the threads, then use some again. If not, then not. However, on these critical function parts, you may as well. It is not hard at all to break blue threadlock free.

BTW, I get mine in a small bottle for only $2 at Harbor Freight.

Yeah, I had a tool box full of tubes of blue

Wound up using it, since it was present.

It's also good practice to clean the old threadlocker off. A quick wipe with a wire brush before you add new threadlock will do the trick.

Yep, I used the wire brush on my drill, actually braced the drill on the ground like a tripod, ran the bolt over the brush.

Per Service Manual:

The bolts are TTY bolts. They're supposed to be discarded after removal but I've reused mine the couple of times I've pulled them and no issue. When I finally replace pads and rotors, I'll buy new bolts just because.

Thanks for the all input, I did reuse the bolts this pass (per several people), when I do some pads later in the year, I'll get new bolts.

I pulled my rotors out a couple of times for suspension work...not a lot of trouble, but my car is still relatively new.

Unbolt the calipers, and clip holding the brake line, make sure to put the calipers on somewhere that doesn't stretch the line. Let the rotors cool off a bit and slightly smack them with a rubber mallet. Very likely that you won't need the PB to pull them out.

I wound up spraying a PB into the center stud holes, let them sit for a few hours, holy smokes, like 3-4 pretty easy wacks and they dropped right off. What I thought was going to be the biggest PITA was actually no sweat.

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