DIY for rotor replacement?

[MaskedRacerX]

I'm replacing the rotors on my GT PP car, not doing anything else with the brakes, pads aren't being replaced.

Any DIY tips? Doing a corner at a time in the garage, going to use a little shot of PB to help break the rotors loose (probably let it sit for an hour or so).

I understand the front calipers bolts are 85ft/lbs, the rear are 24ft/lbs.

Am I right that I can remove the entire caliper as one piece front and rear, and reuse the caliper bolts? I'd assume a little dab of blue Loctite on those bolts?

Any other gotchas? Anyone want to come do this for me? :lol:

Thanks!

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[Chef jpd]

It's really easy. 2 caliper bolts, and remove the caliper as a unit.
The only issue might be getting the old rotor off.
In would spray the base of the wheel studs with penetrating fluid.
Then unleash a dead blow hammer to get the rotor loose.
Bolts are re-useable.

 

[Rebellion]

I'm replacing the rotors on my GT PP car, not doing anything else with the brakes, pads aren't being replaced.

Any DIY tips? Doing a corner at a time in the garage, going to use a little shot of PB to help break the rotors loose (probably let it sit for an hour or so).

I understand the front calipers bolts are 85ft/lbs, the rear are 24ft/lbs.

Am I right that I can remove the entire caliper as one piece front and rear, and reuse the caliper bolts? I'd assume a little dab of blue Loctite on those bolts?

Any other gotchas? Anyone want to come do this for me? :lol:

Thanks!

I pulled my rotors out a couple of times for suspension work...not a lot of trouble, but my car is still relatively new.

Unbolt the calipers, and clip holding the brake line, make sure to put the calipers on somewhere that doesn't stretch the line. Let the rotors cool off a bit and slightly smack them with a rubber mallet. Very likely that you won't need the PB to pull them out.

 

[Evo_Rob]

I'm replacing the rotors on my GT PP car, not doing anything else with the brakes, pads aren't being replaced.

Any DIY tips? Doing a corner at a time in the garage, going to use a little shot of PB to help break the rotors loose (probably let it sit for an hour or so).

I understand the front calipers bolts are 85ft/lbs, the rear are 24ft/lbs.

Am I right that I can remove the entire caliper as one piece front and rear, and reuse the caliper bolts? I'd assume a little dab of blue Loctite on those bolts?

Any other gotchas? Anyone want to come do this for me? :lol:

Thanks!

My personal preference is to use a rubber mallet to get the rotors off if they're rusted. Usually a few love taps on the left and right sides alternating will get them free. Also, I would recommend doing pads at the same time since they'll be grooved to the old rotors. Could give you issues with sound and stopping power.

Per Service Manual:

The bolts are TTY bolts. They're supposed to be discarded after removal but I've reused mine the couple of times I've pulled them and no issue. When I finally replace pads and rotors, I'll buy new bolts just because.

4 and 6 Piston Front Caliper: Torque : 129 lb.ft (175 Nm)

Non-PP Rear Caliper Bracket: Torque : 129 lb.ft (175 Nm)
Non-PP Rear Caliper: Torque : 24 lb.ft (32 Nm)


PP Rear Caliper: Torque : 85 lb.ft (115 Nm)

 

[MaskedRacerX]

Excellent info, thanks everyone (so far).

 

[plc268]

My personal preference is to use a rubber mallet to get the rotors off if they're rusted. Usually a few love taps on the left and right sides alternating will get them free. Also, I would recommend doing pads at the same time since they'll be grooved to the old rotors. Could give you issues with sound and stopping power.

I'm fighting my rotors right now. They're not budging. I'm not even in a rust belt state, and didn't think they'd be on there this hard. Gonna try soakng them a bit see if that'll loosen some rust

 

[Evo_Rob]

I'm fighting my rotors right now. They're not budging. I'm not even in a rust belt state, and didn't think they'd be on there this hard. Gonna try soakng them a bit see if that'll loosen some rust

A little PB Blaster around the hub will help if they're that locked on

 

[Evo_Rob]

PS, if you have issue with rust build up, a light grit sandpaper around the hub to clear the debris and coat with some corrosion preventative spray will do wonders for the future. Especially if you can get your hands on aviation type, water displacing spray

 

[MaskedRacerX]

I'm fighting my rotors right now. They're not budging. I'm not even in a rust belt state, and didn't think they'd be on there this hard. Gonna try soakng them a bit see if that'll loosen some rust

Yeah, I'm not looking forward to this, I've got decent amounts of rust, and it took a pulley remover and hours to remove my spacers a couple of week ago.

 

[mikes2017gt]

As a future preventive maintenance type-thing: Might want to buy a wire brush to chuck in your cordless drill. Once you have the rotor off, use that to scour the rust from the rotor top hat, the back of the rotor where it meets the spindle and the back of your rim, where it meets the rotor top hat. A little dab of anti-seize smeared on those surfaces (NOT on the rotor surface itself) will help keep everything clean and not seized for the future.

 

[MaskedRacerX]

As a future preventive maintenance type-thing: Might want to buy a wire brush to chuck in your cordless drill. Once you have the rotor off, use that to scour the rust from the rotor top hat, the back of the rotor where it meets the spindle and the back of your rim, where it meets the rotor top hat. A little dab of anti-seize smeared on those surfaces (NOT on the rotor surface itself) will help keep everything clean and not seized for the future.

I have one! I was intending to really clean up the hub - wire brush on my drill and then some finishing work with light grit sandpaper. My wheels are pretty new, so the rear mounting surface is very clean.

I also scored a fresh container of anti-seize.

Thanks!

:cheers:

 

[MaskedRacerX]

BTW, I didn't see anyone confirm, a little blue Loctite on the caliper bolts, or no need? I'll be reusing them this one time.

 

[BmacIL]

My personal preference is to use a rubber mallet to get the rotors off if they're rusted. Usually a few love taps on the left and right sides alternating will get them free. Also, I would recommend doing pads at the same time since they'll be grooved to the old rotors. Could give you issues with sound and stopping power.

Per Service Manual:

The bolts are TTY bolts. They're supposed to be discarded after removal but I've reused mine the couple of times I've pulled them and no issue. When I finally replace pads and rotors, I'll buy new bolts just because.

4 and 6 Piston Front Caliper: Torque : 129 lb.ft (175 Nm)

Non-PP Rear Caliper Bracket: Torque : 129 lb.ft (175 Nm)
Non-PP Rear Caliper: Torque : 129 lb.ft (175 Nm)

PP Rear Caliper: Torque : 85 lb.ft (115 Nm)

This makes no sense.

 

[Evo_Rob]

BTW, I didn't see anyone confirm, a little blue Loctite on the caliper bolts, or no need? I'll be reusing them this one time.

You can if you want, the service manual does not call for it.

This makes no sense.

You're right, my fault. Copy and paste error

24 lb.ft (32 Nm)

 

[BmacIL]

You can if you want, the service manual does not call for it.



You're right, my fault. Copy and paste error

24 lb.ft (32 Nm)

What I meant was that it doesn't make sense that the PP and non PP caliper torque is different. The caliper is the same other than the finish.

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