Differential leaking oil - pics inside

[UnhandledException]

Car has 33,000 miles. 2 years old. Daily driven.

I have been getting this rather strange metal to metal rubbing/difficulty turning noise coming from the back of the car turning to left (from stand still to full clock or close to full clock turn). This noise comes on only when the diff is cold, when axle temp goes above 120, I cant really tell.

Today I put the car on lift and wanted to see if I can spot anything. I raised the back of the car, with car in neutral and e-brake disengaged, I could turn the driveshaft, and individual wheels in the back and didn't hear any noise.

However, upon close inspect, i can see a leak coming from the driveshaft to differential connection point, it's gray/green in color and it looks like it has been going on for a long time.

This is one of those things I will need to take the car in for a warranty claim. Along with this, car is also loosing coolant and with only 3,000 more miles before warranty is up, I want to take it in to Ford

- How do I know whether the diff needs to be changed or just the bad seal? What if the diff has been running on low oil for so long?

- Is this common?

- Why would this happen? Car was never tracked. Is it just bad luck or some precursor that triggers it?

- Any other things to look for/ask about?

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[Wriggly]

Get rid of it. It's gonna become a money pit.

 

[The Chairman]

Look’s like the pinion seal has a small leak. Easy warranty fix.
Also, you can remove the fill plug on the back and stick your finger in there and see if the level is low.

As to the sound when turning left, that’s what locking diffs do. All of mine make that sound on tight left turn. Traction-loks always did it; in fact, the car almost makes a slight jerking movement each time it slips at low speeds. Put some power to it, and it locks right up and goes.
I thought maybe the Torsen might not do it. But it does as well, just not as jerky as the Traction-Lok.

 

[InvidiousX]

Your bumper to bumper warranty is 3/36k but powertrain is 5/60k! So you still got life in that bad boy.

 

[GrabberBlue]

Get rid of it. It's gonna become a money pit.

I don't think he asked for your opinion on if he should keep the car.

Anyways.

I'm not sure how Ford handles differential work if they are going to replace the seal or just replace the whole differential. With other GT350 warranty work they typically just replace the whole assembly whatever it may be.

Differential leaks can be fairly common, it's unlikely you've done anything to cause the failure. Without more people posting with similar issues, it is hard to say if the Voodoo vibration could cause the differential seal to fail prematurely compared to a GT.

If you have concerns express them to your service advisor or service manager. They will accommodate you within reason, if they just want to replace the seal but you want a new differential because the fluid is almost empty, ask them.

 

[UnhandledException]

Thanks for all the responses, I am trying to find a Ford dealer who also gives loaners as this is my only car. Besides this issue there is a coolant loss problem that I have had since day 1 where I have to add about 1/4-1/2 qt of coolant every 8000-10,000 miles. I know from my blackstone oil reports that there is no water or antifreeze in the oil so its not going into the engine.

would the powertrain cover both the differential and the coolant leak or just differential?

 

[The Chairman]

Regarding the antifreeze leak, I have seen other blogs where there have been radiators with slight leaks and they replace the radiator. Don’t know if that part is under the power train warranty or not. So don’t wait past 36K miles to find out its not...

 

[ugstang17]

Get rid of it. It's gonna become a money pit.

^^^ Classic example of elitism ignorance.

OP You need to get with a dealer you trust and ask them. Speculation here will only give you a false sense of security or warm fuzzy. The warranty card will tell you exactly what is covered based on the 36/36 b-b or power train extended warranty. The purchase date establishes the start of warranty not the build date. The OD tells the rest of the story. From personal experience even if the car was out of warranty the cost to resolve the diff is $600-$800 including R/P gears, install kit, labor, lube at a reputable speed shop or dealer in most areas. For a person capable of affording a GT350 that should be chicken feed, no offense intended.

As for the coolant leak again read the warranty card and remember that coolant does displace over time. I would not get my pants in a twist over 8-16 oz every 10000 miles. Cars today operate at higher engine temps than they did in the days of yore. 210-220 degrees vice the old days of 170-180. The cap could potentially vent that much to atmosphere over 10000 miles at these operating temps. These temps are chosen for purposes of reducing emissions. The dealer MAY disagree with me and dig into it, but I would not personally lose sleep over it. Your report indicates no engine issues so relax. There are no signs of coolant on the floor under the car? Relax even more IMHO. Don't let ass jack comments like post number 2 ruin the enjoyment of your car.

 

[UnhandledException]

Thanks guys for all the comments, I will report back here once the dealer tells me what's going on (I need to first find a dealer).

 

[Epiphany]

Disconnect driveshaft at pinion flange, drain fluid. Remove pinion nut, pull flange. Pry seal off. If the servicing mechanic is any good/experienced, the crush sleeve on the pinion won't be affected and won't need to be touched. Otherwise, the job grows. Beyond that, replace the seal, reinstall the pinion nut and flange, finishing with reconnecting driveshaft. Fill differential, done.

 

[UnhandledException]

Disconnect driveshaft at pinion flange, drain fluid. Remove pinion nut, pull flange. Pry seal off. If the servicing mechanic is any good/experienced, the crush sleeve on the pinion won't be affected and won't need to be touched. Otherwise, the job grows. Beyond that, replace the seal, reinstall the pinion nut and flange, finishing with reconnecting driveshaft. Fill differential, done.

This is all good except prying the seal off is a bitch I think and doing that right is not easy.

 

[Nfs1000f]

Get rid of it. It's gonna become a money pit.

^^^ Classic example of elitism ignorance.

I think it's called sarcasm.

 

[ugstang17]

I think it's called sarcasm.

That is left at the will of the reader to interpret since no clear direction was given prior to or after the statement. Sarcasm or snooty elitism. One could argue the statement was a snooty elitist attempt at sarcasm. This would make us both right. So for the sake or argument, we're both right. Now let's not clutter the thread up further out of respect for the OP inquiry.

 

[The Chairman]

Thanks guys for all the comments, I will report back here once the dealer tells me what's going on (I need to first find a dealer).

I sent you a PM with some info.

 

[Epiphany]

This is all good except prying the seal off is a bitch I think and doing that right is not easy.

Prying the seal off is probably the easiest part of the job. I just finished a ground up 8.8" build (Fox era) and there are a few things that can be done to prevent fluid from weeping between the seal and the iron case. Make sure factory Ford service parts are used.

The seals come with pre-applied sealant.

It helps if sealant is added to the circumference of the iron nose before driving the seal home.

Also - you want any sealant used to be given proper cure time before filling the differential back up with lubricant.

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