Decided on Roush SC, now what else?

[94gt]

Decided on which one, and where its being done already for my 21GT (car is 5 months old, 700 miles, so I am going with Roush due to the warranty.

Here is what I am planning and being very new to the forced induction world, is there anything else that I "should" do when adding a SC?

Roush Phase 2
Blowfish Safety Loop (MT car)
BMR Cradle Bushing lockout kit (not sure of stage 1 or stage 2)
Roush Resonator delete kit
M-10849-A Gauge cluster- Since I have PP car, this is the version from the EB HPP that reads both vacuum and boost.
Not building a race car, and it will get driven harder some days, and maybe on drag strip one or two times a year,

Anything missing from this that might lead to premature failure that could be easily prevented with this set up?

As I am doing this I am in the mindset of "do it once, do it right" even it if it a little more upfront. What I am trying to avoid is the "Oh if you would have spent a couple of hundred bucks when you did it, you won't be spending thousands now" scenario.

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[Strokerswild]

Oil pump gears and crank sprocket, axles.

 

[illtal]

Decided on which one, and where its being done already for my 21GT (car is 5 months old, 700 miles, so I am going with Roush due to the warranty.

Here is what I am planning and being very new to the forced induction world, is there anything else that I "should" do when adding a SC?

Roush Phase 2
Blowfish Safety Loop (MT car)
BMR Cradle Bushing lockout kit (not sure of stage 1 or stage 2)
Roush Resonator delete kit
M-10849-A Gauge cluster- Since I have PP car, this is the version from the EB HPP that reads both vacuum and boost.
Not building a race car, and it will get driven harder some days, and maybe on drag strip one or two times a year,

Anything missing from this that might lead to premature failure that could be easily prevented with this set up?

As I am doing this I am in the mindset of "do it once, do it right" even it if it a little more upfront. What I am trying to avoid is the "Oh if you would have spent a couple of hundred bucks when you did it, you won't be spending thousands now" scenario.

There are others with a warranty, i'f you're really only gonna do it once and do it right. Whipple offers warranty, Edelbrock offers. That Roush SC doesn't have a whole lot left in it outside of what you get right off the bat. Cooling is a big issue, and even on stock boost levels High IATs are commonplace. If I where you I'd look at whipple (and inquire about the warranty) or edelbrock (and the warranty) literally you are picking the most limited option because of a warranty and nothing else. as long as you don't abuse your car there shouldn't be any engine failures.

OPGs are neccessary on the gen3 unless you are 2 stepping or slamming the limiter. absolute shame this "mod" is still being pushed on entry level kits.

Axles aren't needed if you aren't launching the car. Launching is what breaks them not rolls. If you plan on hitting the strip get them if not no go.

Suspension may need looking at depending on how you drive the car, maybe even wheel and tires. Traction on the stock suspension may not be what you need for it to be.
Wait on the clutch.

 

[94gt]

There are others with a warranty, i'f you're really only gonna do it once and do it right. Whipple offers warranty, Edelbrock offers. That Roush SC doesn't have a whole lot left in it outside of what you get right off the bat. Cooling is a big issue, and even on stock boost levels High IATs are commonplace. If I where you I'd look at whipple (and inquire about the warranty) or edelbrock (and the warranty) literally you are picking the most limited option because of a warranty and nothing else. as long as you don't abuse your car there shouldn't be any engine failures.

OPGs are neccessary on the gen3 unless you are 2 stepping or slamming the limiter. absolute shame this "mod" is still being pushed on entry level kits.

Axles aren't needed if you aren't launching the car. Launching is what breaks them not rolls. If you plan on hitting the strip get them if not no go.

Suspension may need looking at depending on how you drive the car, maybe even wheel and tires. Traction on the stock suspension may not be what you need for it to be.
Wait on the clutch.

I appreciate the input on the other options, but where I am with this car is I have a Roush dealership relatively close, that does a lot of the installs and has them at a very attractive price point installed, as well as a closer Roush/Ford dealer that is only about 15 mins from me, that I would be able to take the vehicle to for service/issues. If the car was out of warranty or near out of warranty it would probably be a different story. I don't plan on pushing this car to extremes, mostly because of it being new. Plans a little further down the road to pick up a used Fox and push that car to a more extreme, since in the long run that car will be more "disposable" vs my 2021 that I just paid $50k for.

Considering the axles if I do decide to go with a drag radial and more track time...I know they can give out without notice, but for my current plan of very limited 1/4 mile track use and still on factory Pirelli banana peel traction tires, hoping I can get away without having to add them at this point.

 

[engineermike]

The roush is a great kit. Everything about is is about as close to an oem supercharger as possible. The supercharger uses oem rotors and the tune is the best I’ve seen outside of an oem tune. However, the Achilles heel of the kit, the intercooler, is also the most difficult to address.

Adding an interchiller helps and E85 makes it almost moot. Otherwise you will suffer a lot of performance loss due to high charge temps.

 

[illtal]

The roush is a great kit. Everything about is is about as close to an oem supercharger as possible. The supercharger uses oem rotors and the tune is the best I’ve seen outside of an oem tune. However, the Achilles heel of the kit, the intercooler, is also the most difficult to address.

Adding an interchiller helps and E85 makes it almost moot. Otherwise you will suffer a lot of performance loss due to high charge temps.

He won't be able to keep that warranty and run E-85 that's a different than roush tune.
I actually don't think it's a wise Idea to take a new car to the drag strip if i'm going to be worried about a warranty. Anyways, his car and money. I think you're good to go with what you got.

 

[94gt]

He won't be able to keep that warranty and run E-85 that's a different than roush tune.
I actually don't think it's a wise Idea to take a new car to the drag strip if i'm going to be worried about a warranty. Anyways, his car and money. I think you're good to go with what you got.

When I say take it to the track one or twice a year, this is really more of a grudge match event; Buddy of mine has a Camaro and we are always going back and forth- this is "safer" alternative than doing it on the road...so its not like I plan on running it in anything other than that. I used to take my 94GT to the track 2 times a month back when I owned it, but it was paid for, and I had personally done a lot of the work to it, so I was a lot less concerned about it having a catastrophic failure. The 21 isn't a daily driver, by any means, but I also don't want to do something to it that puts me in a spot where I have to shell out $15,000 for crate motor because the bottom end didn't hold up to a few passes.

 

[94gt]

The roush is a great kit. Everything about is is about as close to an oem supercharger as possible. The supercharger uses oem rotors and the tune is the best I’ve seen outside of an oem tune. However, the Achilles heel of the kit, the intercooler, is also the most difficult to address.

Adding an interchiller helps and E85 makes it almost moot. Otherwise you will suffer a lot of performance loss due to high charge temps.

When it comes to cooling I know starting last year the Phase 2 includes a 40% bigger intercooler, not sure if that addresses all of the heat issue or if I may want to look down the road at a hood with better heat extraction if that poses an issue.

 

[illtal]

When I say take it to the track one or twice a year, this is really more of a grudge match event; Buddy of mine has a Camaro and we are always going back and forth- this is "safer" alternative than doing it on the road...so its not like I plan on running it in anything other than that. I used to take my 94GT to the track 2 times a month back when I owned it, but it was paid for, and I had personally done a lot of the work to it, so I was a lot less concerned about it having a catastrophic failure. The 21 isn't a daily driver, by any means, but I also don't want to do something to it that puts me in a spot where I have to shell out $15,000 for crate motor because the bottom end didn't hold up to a few passes.

Service Long block is 4600 bux, but I get it man. I just wanted make sure you are informed that' s all.

Edit. The problem with these are that the bottom mounted IC brick is too small and too close to the hot engine.

 

[Vert]

Wider wheels will be needed or your tires will break......loose that is upwards of 50mph.

 

[94gt]

Service Long block is 4600 bux, but I get it man. I just wanted make sure you are informed that' s all.

Edit. The problem with these are that the bottom mounted IC brick is too small and too close to the hot engine.

I'm not the kinda guy that is lucky enough when a rod gives way, that is stays on the bottom end LOL...my luck is more "rod blew, piston hit valves, bottom of the rod hit at just the right angle to torque the crank, and now I have spun bearings on the rest of the crank"

I once owned a 97" Taurus that blew a rod in the fashioned described above (while just driving down the highway, it was my daily driver)...fortunately it was 2003 and every junk yard around had running replacement engines for them, and only about 800 bucks and a weekend I was able to swap it out (and I think there was also a lot of beers involved for my buddies who were "helping")

 

[illtal]

I'm not the kinda guy that is lucky enough when a rod gives way, that is stays on the bottom end LOL...my luck is more "rod blew, piston hit valves, bottom of the rod hit at just the right angle to torque the crank, and now I have spun bearings on the rest of the crank"

I once owned a 97" Taurus that blew a rod in the fashioned described above (while just driving down the highway, it was my daily driver)...fortunately it was 2003 and every junk yard around had running replacement engines for them, and only about 800 bucks and a weekend I was able to swap it out (and I think there was also a lot of beers involved for my buddies who were "helping")

Here's some peace of mind: Long block
Honestly, as long as you don't go over 11psi on 93 and don't overrev your engine you should be ok.
I've had my EB on since like 6xxx miles and no problems

 

[illtal]

If i were you I would invest in some methanol though

 

[JK XLR8]

Definitely go with some sticky rubber....that thing freight trains hard!! When in sport mode, it shifts pretty hard and I have noticed especially in 2nd and 3rd....even with 305s in 80 degree weather, its right at the max breaking point for me.

 

[Proshop]

As some one who purchased a Roush for the warranty be very careful what you add on so Roush can’t void your warranty that they offer not Ford. I lasted about a month with warranty before I decided I wanted and needed more and my car a 21 had less than 1k on it. I can’t dismiss anyone saying going Whipple or other companies that give you more right off the get go and you can have more room to build, i kick myself all the time for not going with something else. I always warn future Roush owners to really evaluate what they want their end result to be, because honestly you always want more but in this game you have to pay to play with the big boys!

Edit: If you wanna go wild hit me up and I’ll let you know my setup!

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