DashCam hardwire fuse

[velocityblue5.0]

so i’m at auto zone now. should i get a small 5a fuse for the dash cam? or use the 10 i used beforehand? any thoughts? don’t know if you can mix them in a fuse tap

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[m3incorp]

Get them both, that is the only way to really know.

so i’m at auto zone now. should i get a small 5a fuse for the dash cam? or use the 10 i used beforehand? any thoughts? don’t know if you can mix them in a fuse tap

 

[velocityblue5.0]

they had a little variety pack. i’ll give it a shot!

 

[m3incorp]

I think that is what I bought a year ago.

 

[velocityblue5.0]

so i’m using fuse 2 which is the power locks and doors fuse. it works accessory and ignition only which is good. i worry though what if the thing craps out or falls out, and i lose the power locks? is there a better fuse i should tap into? i’m also using a 5a for the camera and the 10 for the original doors one.

is there another fuse i should try that stays on after car is off? i just don’t like how it takes over an hour for the 12v to shut down, which is why i wanted ignition only.

 

[Whitest Russian]

so i’m using fuse 2 which is the power locks and doors fuse. it works accessory and ignition only which is good. i worry though what if the thing craps out or falls out, and i lose the power locks? is there a better fuse i should tap into? i’m also using a 5a for the camera and the 10 for the original doors one.

is there another fuse i should try that stays on after car is off? i just don’t like how it takes over an hour for the 12v to shut down, which is why i wanted ignition only.

Here's how a fuse-tap works just in case you need it:

And you do have fuses slots to use that are empty. However, you really should turn your car on and measure the voltage and not just blindly follow people on the internet.

Also it might be worth getting a new camera. Yours is ~6 years old. Your components are probably going to start failing from being out in the sun all day and technology has advanced a lot and your camera quality is probably mediocre by 2021 standards.

 

[velocityblue5.0]

Here's how a fuse-tap works just in case you need it:

And you do have fuses slots to use that are empty. However, you really should turn your car on and measure the voltage and not just blindly follow people on the internet.

Also it might be worth getting a new camera. Yours is ~6 years old. Not only because components are probably going to start failing from being out in the sun all day but because technology has advanced a lot and your camera quality is probably mediocre.

i will look into it. so, here’s the thing. it only works in the tap when i use spot 2 which is the power locks and windows. when i put it into, for example 26 which is passengers door control panel, it is a 30a; it won’t work. the door controls work but the other fuse spot won’t. i tried changing fuses from a 5 to a 10 and still didn’t work. i don’t get it. i’d rather tap into something not as important as power locks y know?

 

[velocityblue5.0]

well nevermind that’s not good. now the dashcam doesn’t work in slot 2 anymore either. what the F

 

[Whitest Russian]

i will look into it. so, here’s the thing. it only works in the tap when i use spot 2 which is the power locks and windows. when i put it into, for example 26 which is passengers door control panel, it is a 30a; it won’t work. the door controls work but the other fuse spot won’t. i tried changing fuses from a 5 to a 10 and still didn’t work. i don’t get it. i’d rather tap into something not as important as power locks y know?

That's weird. 12volts is 12volts so I don't know what's going on there. Is the fuse-tap in the same orientation in both slots?

Is the fuse-tap being seated all the way? And did one of the fuses pop?

 

[velocityblue5.0]

That's weird. 12volts is 12volts so I don't know what's going on there. Is the fuse-tap in the same orientation in both slots?

Is the fuse-tap being seated all the way? And did one of the fuses pop?

no fuses popped. i think bad ground. i just got it working on 2 again. ground must have not been a great connection. i’m gonna try passengers door 30a again….

 

[velocityblue5.0]

OK so i got one. number 36 says front camera (base) and i have no idea wtf that is. anyone have any clue? it’s ignition only.

 

[Whitest Russian]

no fuses popped. i think bad ground. i just got it working on 2 again. ground must have not been a great connection. i’m gonna try passengers door 30a again….

OK so i got one. number 36 says front camera (base) and i have no idea wtf that is. anyone have any clue? it’s ignition only.

Do you have a multi-meter to test the unused fuse slots?

Either of these are good enough to test with:
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-12-volt-circuit-tester-4288.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html

And that should be for the lanekeep assist that became standard in 2021.

 

[velocityblue5.0]

thank you you’re right about that one. i’ll have to find my meter. also, the spare 30 is odd. it isn’t accessory power, but ignition. it powered when i started the car up, and then it cut power after it was started. actually WEIRD! it powers when you hold the brakes in!!! that’s so weird

 

[velocityblue5.0]

playing around now bc i can’t find my meter. every spare is constant power so far. i think i may tap into the lane keep assist one, but i assume that’s all of ford copilot 360? however, at least if something goes bad with that i will know because it gives a warning on the dash when the fuse is out saying not available. what do you think? which is the best?

my camera has auto power off but it doesn’t seem to work. i’m testing it now, but i know it didn’t work on the 12v adapter. i definitely need an accessory power fuse for this to not be constantly on. EDIT ok auto power off works, but you have to manually turn it on each time you get in the car, i’d rather it just start with accessory power hmm search continues

 

[velocityblue5.0]

lol alright i quit. doing number 2 which is power locks and doors. the audio unit, and amplifier are both constant power!! wtf!? why would the amp be getting power when accessory is off? crazy. oh well.

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