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Dash Cam Hardwiring Question?

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Stanv03

Stanv03

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I recently installed this. Absolutely incredible fit and finish. Comes with a plastic cover and replicates an OEM look with the camera integrated into it, and a wiring harness to connect to the rain sensor. If you want it to record when the car is parked the kit comes with an OBD2 connector which will provide power for it to record parking lot video. Easy setup, and lots of options to configure. HUGE sd card comes with the kit. 10/10

https://mangoaltech.com/collections/ford-mustang

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Aren’t those for only for the Mustang that comes with that cover behind the mirror though?
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Aren’t those for only for the Mustang that comes with that cover behind the mirror though?
... I'm pretty sure there are two or three options for the Mustang depending on whether there is a "big cover" or "no big cover".

Sorry to hijack thread.
 
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... I'm pretty sure there are two or three options for the Mustang depending on whether there is a "big cover" or "no big cover".

Sorry to hijack thread.
Ahh ok. Nice and all but I’ve already have this setup. I currently have it running to my charger port. But want to hard wire into my fuse panel
 

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What year is your Stang? I want to know if we have same fuses or not so I could run what you’re running. And do you have it running in parking mode? Looks like we have 2 different hard wire kits. Mine has the option to set a timer

IMG_9570.jpeg


IMG_9569.jpeg
I have a 2017 Mustang GT.
 
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I have a 2017 Mustang GT.
Ahh, then yeah, our fuses are labeled differently. Well, I’m going to attempt the install tomorrow after work so.. I really hope all goes well.
 

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Ahh, then yeah, our fuses are labeled differently. Well, I’m going to attempt the install tomorrow after work so.. I really hope all goes well.
I hope it goes well for you also. I tested my fuse with a fuse tester to confirm my constant 12 volts and a switched power source. What year is your Mustang?
 
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I hope it goes well for you also. I tested my fuse with a fuse tester to confirm my constant 12 volts and a switched power source. What year is your Mustang?
2020 GT Premium, Non PP
 
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I hope it goes well for you also. I tested my fuse with a fuse tester to confirm my constant 12 volts and a switched power source. What year is your Mustang?
So what ever fuse I use, it has to be 12v?
 

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So what ever fuse I use, it has to be 12v?
That made me laugh...
All the fuses are 12V.

You want one that is always on and one that turns on & off with the key. You can check the fuses with a digital volt meter or a simple test light. When checking for one that is always on don't start testing after you open the door until the interior lights time out. That has fooled me before.
 

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So what ever fuse I use, it has to be 12v?
Yes, you'll be using a 12 volt source. I just looked up a fuse box diagram for a 2020 Mustang GT Premium and I'm seeing that you will use Fuse #2 for ACC and Fuse # 31.

Fuse #2 is for the Power Windows and Fuse # 31 is for the Remote Keyless Entry. This would basically be the same setup that I currently have in mine.
 

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Be very careful when running A pillar wire on coupes so doesn't block airbag in any way. Don't remove the pillar trim if don't have to it's a pain to get back on.
 
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That made me laugh...
All the fuses are 12V.

You want one that is always on and one that turns on & off with the key. You can check the fuses with a digital volt meter or a simple test light. When checking for one that is always on don't start testing after you open the door until the interior lights time out. That has fooled me before.
Sorry, as I mentioned in the first place. I’ve never done this.. I’m 21 and I want to learn to do things my self and not depend on others ..
 
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Yes, you'll be using a 12 volt source. I just looked up a fuse box diagram for a 2020 Mustang GT Premium and I'm seeing that you will use Fuse #2 for ACC and Fuse # 31.

Fuse #2 is for the Power Windows and Fuse # 31 is for the Remote Keyless Entry. This would basically be the same setup that I currently have in mine.
And I apologize to you as well for being annoying and asking all these questions
 

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That made me laugh...
All the fuses are 12V.

You want one that is always on and one that turns on & off with the key. You can check the fuses with a digital volt meter or a simple test light. When checking for one that is always on don't start testing after you open the door until the interior lights time out. That has fooled me before.
We have folks from the EU on here....do you have 24v on Mustangs across the pond? I had a rental car in Germany that was 24v, but it was a Toyota. But as ORRadtech posted, in the US we do have 12v in our Mustangs šŸ™‚

...and oh, BTW....none of our fuses put out 5v, which may have prompted the OP's question.
 

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And I apologize to you as well for being annoying and asking all these questions
It's all good and we all gotta learn some where. I've been dealing with electronics on cars for years. Car stereos, alarm systems, LED lights, and anything else that can be wired.

You learn by asking questions and diving into it, if you make a mistake you'll learn from that mistake and never do it again.

The best advice that I can give and is rule of thumb is to unhook your car battery so there's no power when you're preparing to do the fuse taps.

Take a good look at your car and look at how you want to run the wires. There is going to be plenty of wire so you'll be good on wire.

As S550HPP mentioned, be careful with the A Pillars. You shouldn't have to remove them at all. Use your fingers and your trim tool to tuck the wire. I personally would start from the top where you'll be mounting the camera and leave a good amount of wire so you can mount your camera exactly how you want. Tuck your wire and work your way to the A Pillar on the passenger side. Without taking the pillar off, use your trim tool to push the wire around it. I personally kept it at the top of the pillar right between it and the headliner and tucked it behind the pillar and then worked my way to the other side to the door weather strip. There is a metal lip that the weather strip is on, tuck your wire between that metal lip and the headliner next to the weather strip.

You should be officially on the passenger side of your car and ready to work your way down to the fuse panel. Take off the fuse panel door by sliding the panel door straight up and pull out, I believe all of the S550s are the same so they'll be two clips that hold the door snug, when you pull the door after sliding up it should pop off. Once that's removed, you'll need to remove the trim by the footwell and door, to remove that piece pop up the trim in the middle right next to the passenger seat and door (only the front part of that trim needs to be pulled up). This will allow for you to remove the front trim piece. You should be able to pull the front trim piece that you skipped to reveal the full path of the wiring. That piece is only held on by two clips and the bottom is released because you already should have pulled up the front of the middle trim.

Run the wire down tucking it between that metal lip and weather strip all the way down into you get to the carpet. Once you get to this point, you're almost at the finish line. If you haven't done so already, unhook the negative battery cable from the battery so there's no power to the vehicle.

You should see a big bolt in front of you from the trim that you removed, I believe it's a 12 or 13 mm that's chrome in color, loosen that bolt and connect your ground wire to it by placing it behind that bolt. Tighten that bolt back down and make sure the ground wire is secure. Now You're officially ready to tap the fuses. Look into the the fuses that I've mentioned for your car.

Remove Fuse #2 from the fuse box on the passenger side and place that fuse into the open end of the fuse tap. Plug the ACC fuse tap into where Fuse #2 was located. Connect the end of the wires from the fuse tap to the Hardwire kit for ACC to complete the connection

You'll repeat the same steps for the Battery Fuse tap for Fuse #31 by removing that fuse and placing it into the Battery Fuse tap. Plug that tap into Fuse #31 and connect the fuse tap end to the Battery wire of the Hardwire kit.

At this point you should have everything connected. Double check that ACC is connected to Fuse #2 and Battery is on Fuse #31. Also check the ground by tugging on it and make sure your connections are solid. If it all checks out and looks good, you need to prepare to test it out.

Connect the battery cable back onto the battery and connect your camera. I can't speak for the Vantrue E1 camera since I have the E3 but after connecting it. Turn your car on and I believe the camera will power on automatically. If it doesn't, power it on and go into your settings to set everything up (mainly parking mode for the Hardwire kit at this point). It's so much easier and quicker to set it up using the mobile app and connecting to it via Wifi.

After everything is set, test out the parking mode by turning off the car. It's easier to have the motion settings set for the camera versus the collision setting. Wait until all lights and everything cut off on the car. Now shake your camera up a little and you should see a green light come on indicating it's recording. I would recommend doing this for about 2 - 3 minutes just to be 100% sure. If you see it recording every time, this is indicating that your camera is receiving power properly from the Hardwire kit.

Now you should be good to go and you can mount the camera, tuck the wires in neatly so that they're well hidden, and put the trim pieces back on.

Good Luck!
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